Freezer works, Fridge doesn't

First some fridge 101, the refrigerator/freezer models cool by directly refrigerating the freezer section and the refrigerator section is cooled when "some" of the cold air from the freezer is directed over to the refrigerator side (typically by a fan) to keep food fresh and not frozen a temperature controlling damper opens and closes to regulate the temperature of the fridge by introducing more or below freezing air into the cabinet. In older models where the freezer was on top the air simply "gravity" drained into the refrigerator cabinet, if the food was too cold you turned the fridge knob up and less air sank from the freezer to the fridge, simple but effective.

When you adjust the temperature level it controls the freezer temperature and this turns the compressor on and off to keep the food frozen. There is typically a knob or lever and some even have electric dampers that open and close to direct more or less air from the freezer and direct it to the refrigerator cabinet based on your temperature requirements.

Now that you know how it works there are a couple things to check. If the condenser coil is plugged with dust the internal system pressure will rise and in some cases make the fridge an over achiever and can chill too much so check/clean the condenser coil. Check the freezer temperature control and turn in up, also make sure the fridge temperature control setting is not set too cold.

Finally as the temperature changes around the refrigerator it will have an effect on the inside of the fridge too so expect to turn it up and down as the environment changes, down in the summer and up in the winter.

Hope the novel helps to resolve your issues.

Many residential refrigerator / freezers are designed to work at temperature considerably above above freezing. Most modern refrigerator / freezer have a single electric thermostat - located in the fresh food compartment. This lone thermostat will control the compressor to keep the fridge (fresh food) section at the desired temperature (usually between 34 - 38 degrees F). The freezer will get colder regardless of how cold it is already whenever the fridge thermostat turns the compressor on.

Now that you see how the thermostat works, let's look at what happens when the fridge is placed in an unheated space - like a garage. In winter time, the temperature can drop considerably below 38 degrees. If the outdoor temperature remains cold enough, for long enough - it will affect the thermostat in the fridge. The temperature inside the fridge could drop below 38 degrees, preventing the thermostat from telling the compressor to turn on. Meanwhile, the temperature in the freezer compartment slowly rises from the normal -10 to 0 F degrees. It will continue to rise until it is the same temperature as the fresh food compartment or until the thermostat in the fresh food compartment tells the compressor to turn on again. This means the freezer contents will thaw.

If the temperature in the garage is even in the 40 to 50 degree range, the loss of cold in the fridge may not happen often enough to keep the compressor coming on often enough to keep some freezer items frozen solid - such as ice cream. Remember, water freezes at 32 degrees F, other products may require lower temperatures to remain frozen, and could thaw at 28 or other temperature.

Good luck!

Its defrost problem.When the freezer section gets cold and reaches its required cooling temperature, after that the frost on freezer section starts defrosting and the cooling fan in the freezer section blows this cool air from freezer to fridge. But if the defrost cycle does not start then over ice will get collected on freezer ventilations and that will block the air passing section from freezer to fridge, so the freezer gets cool but fridge section does not cool.Try manual defrost by unplugging the refrigerator from main power outlet for 24 hours then reconnect it and check, if the same problem is noticed again,. If yes then its defrost board problem. The defrost board located in the back of fridge section. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com or from online sears part site. ------------- Thank you.

There is a drain that carries water from the freezer to a drain pan in the base of the fridge. It has plugged preventing water from draining and in turn the water has froze blocking the flow of air to the fridge. First you must find the drain line in the rear of the fridge and unplug it as well as thaw the fridge out overnight to allow the water to drain... be patient as there will be a lot of ice to be thawed out, let me know if it works! good luck!

the thermostat isn't cycling because it's to cold in the garrage,the machine isn't calling for cold air because the garrage is so cold so the fridge isn't gonna run until the temperature starts to get warm and then the fridge will start again to keep it cold.put some heat in the garrage and it will run fine

Hi,
Defrost timer/control board is sticking...
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

The water could have been frozen in the door and melted when your fridge warmed up.


The lower hinge on each door may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this assist in closing the door. If it’s wore out and doesn’t work the door may not seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if it rises up when opened.



The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

There's a capacitor by or on the compressor that probalbly needs replacing. This is the cheapest route .

due to lots of moisture in the air or high humidity it creates extra frost in the freezing unit this creates blockage in the air flow once the ice crystals build up. the freezer is what keeps the fridge at the normal temperature if the air flow between the two are blocked in the ducting then the fridge temperature will rise the best way to solve this is to open the freezer take out the 4 screws in the back panel tilt the panel forward and blow it with a blow dryer till the ice chunk has melted its a good idea to use a towel and on the top self of the fridge to obsorb excess water this can be kinda messy. or you can unplug your fridge for about 6 or so hours. good luck hope i helped. :)

In most refrigerator freezers, the refrigerator gets its cold from the freezer. The evaporator fan circulates air over the coils in the freezer and cold air circulates into the refrigerator through vents. If the vents are blocked or closed, then the fridge will not get cold enough but the freezer will. If neither is cold enough, then the number of possibilities increases.
Lowering the freezer temperature will increase the cooling cycle activity. Setting the refrigerator temperature may have little affect on the cooling cycles because it simply changes the vent opening size. Decreasing the fridge temperature opens the vents more and increases air circulation from the freezer.
The temperature can be adjusted using the controls found inside the refrigerator or freezer. The ideal freezer temperature is about 0 to 5 degrees (F) and about 38 degrees (F) for the fridge.
Measure the temperature by placing a cup of water with a cooking thermometer into the refrigerator for about 2 hours or more. To test the freezer, substitute alcohol or cooking oil.