How to loosen stuck screw

Remove a GE Spacemaker
The GE Spacemaker series of microwave ovens are designed to be installed above an oven range, freeing up counter space in your kitchen. Some of these Spacemaker models are connected to an outside venting system to carry kitchen vapor and odors outside. Other Spacemaker models utilize a ductless system to do this. Removing a GE Spacemaker microwave oven isn't a difficult task, but, because of the size of some of the oven models, it is a two-man operation. Have a question? Get an answer from an appliance repair specialist now!

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Things You'll Need

• Assistant
• Sharp knife

• Phillips screwdriver

Instructions

1. • 1 Open the cabinet above where the Spacemaker microwave oven is installed. If you see a vent in the cabinet leading to the Spacemaker oven below, your Spacemaker is vented. This vent needs to be disconnected before continuing with removal. Disconnect the vent either by loosening the duct clamps or by cutting the duct tape away with a sharp knife. Pull the vent out of the top of the oven.
     
   • 2 Have an assistant support the oven from below. Loosen the mounting screws connected to the Spacemaker through the cabinet bottom. Loosen the screws by turning counterclockwise with the Phillips screwdriver.
     
   • 3 Unplug the Spacemaker from the socket in the cabinet.
     
   • 4 Continue loosening the screws while your assistant holds the oven in place. Once the screws are removed, have your assistant slowly lower the Spacemaker down by lowering the front face at a 45-degree angle.
     
   • 5 Feed the power cable for the Spacemaker through the hole in the bottom in the supporting cabinet.
     
   • 6 Help your assistant slowly pull the Spacemaker forward and out of the mounting brackets on the rear wall. Once the Spacemaker is cleared of the mounting cabinet and rear wall, set it down.
     
   • 7 Remove the mounting bracket from the rear wall by loosening the screws.
     

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_7344250_remove-ge-spacemaker.html

If the screw head is stripped you will have to replace the knob and screw. Try holding the screw head and turn the handle is its a single knob. Otherwise use a hacksaw or dremel tool and cut about 3/8" away from the door surface, once you cut through you can use a small punch to push the screw through the door then pliers to pull it out. Alternately you could use a dremel tool and carefully grind the head of the screw down until you can brake the head off and pull the handle and screw out through the front.

Hello, annemoss, W/D here.

There is a product that is sold for stripped out screw heads. It has a grit in it, and you place a drop of it on the screwdriver before you put it into the stripped slot. The grit fills the strripped void and allows the screwdriver to get a good bite. The brand I have used is called "Screw Doctor", but there are others. The large "box" hardwares will have this type product, as will Sears.
Another alternative is to drill the screw head through to the shaft of the screw from the back side. Use your old screws that you have already taken out to determine the proper drill bit size. The aim with this method is to remove the screw without making the screw hole too much larger.

Best regards, --W/D--

There is a black plastic strip that fits into the groove at the top of the frame holding the protector and front screen. Pull that down and out (you might need to pry a little to get it started). The attached picture shows the strip partially pulled out at the right edge (photo depicts the top right of a 58K - with a wood cabinet).
Once this strip is removed, you should be able to see a gap (~2mm) between the top of the protector and the frame. Pull the middle of the protector toward you (you may need to hook it with something like a chrochet hook to get it out to where you can get a finger on it). Pull out one side of the protector, then work it loose fromt he bottom. (If it is stubborn, you may have to loosen the bottom frame. Take of the speaker grill, then unscrew the screw on the bottom of the surround for the control panel and pop the surround out. Then there are 3 screws that hold the cabinet frame {might me different for the 58B} and beneath that, 3 screws that hold the bottom of the inside frame. Once those are removed, you should be able to flex the inside frame enough to loosen the protector.)

Installation is the reverse. There are two grooves (at least on my set), and the protector goes in the rear groove(!) (same as the screen itself - first time I tried to put it in the unused groove closer to the front of the screen, and that iddn't work). The black plastic retainer strip goes in the front groove.

Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....



Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.






Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
Let me know if this helps, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Below is instructions on how to make sure doors open and close properly. Ignore the popping open part if this is not happening for you.

Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....



Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.






Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
Let me know if this helps, Thanks, Sea Breeze

THE TOP SCREWS IN THE CABINET

I have experience with the original Passport 250 as leader of the design team. To get inside of the speaker cabinet, you will need to remove a couple of small screws that hold in the grille at the top and bottom of the cabinet face. Once these screws are removed, you will need to carefully pry out the grille from its pressure fit in the plastic noting how it is placed so you can reassemble the grill later. Once the grille is removed you will notice several holes located around the outer perimeter of the speaker panel. Inside these holes, you will find the screws that secure the front of the cabinet (part with speaker attached) with the back of the cabinet housing. Once you have all of the screws removed, you can separate the front panel from the housing and fix the wires or dislocated parts such as crossovers, etc.

Once repaired, use the reverse method to reassemble the cabinet. Don't tighten the cabinet screws excessively as they can strip the plastic.

I hope this repair works for you.