Elements barely heating

You will burn up elements if there is no water in the tank when you power it up. There is a temperature adjustment on both thermostats. Most water heaters have 2 elements and 2 thermostats. The temp adjustment is a small white round thing usually, and behind the metal covers on the side.

Why Does My Electric Water Heater Reset Button Keep Tripping? So the red reset button on your electric water heater keeps popping out and needing to be reset.
Here's the most likely problem: The water in your water heater is getting too hot.
When the water temperature in your water heater exceeds 180°, the red reset button (also known as the high-limit switch) trips. This tripping protects you from getting scalded or burned when using hot water in your home.
OK, but then what's causing the water in your water heater to get so hot? The most likely cause is a bad thermostat.
How a bad thermostat causes your water heater reset button to trip Electric water heaters have a lower and upper thermostat-one for each heating element.
The thermostats are responsible for controlling the heating elements. When the water has cooled off, the thermostats kick on the heating elements to heat the water. And once the water has reached your desired temperature, the thermostats shut off the heating element.
(This is very similar to the way your heating and air conditioning thermostat controls your home HVAC system.)
But these thermostats can go bad. When they do, they sometimes get stuck in the "on" position. This means that that the heating element continues to heat your water, eventually causing the high-limit switch to trip.
The fix: The bad thermostat needs to be replaced. A plumber can use a multimeter to test the thermostats and find out which one is bad.
Other problems that can cause your high-limit switch to trip While a bad thermostat is the most common reason your water heater's reset button may trip, it's not the only one. Other common causes include:

• A shorted heating element-It may be that the thermostat is working just fine and shutting off the heating element. But a short in the element is causing it to continue to heat your water.
• Loose wiring-A loose wire in the water heater can generate heat that can cause the high-limit switch to trip.
• Bad high-limit switch-The switch itself may be malfunctioning and tripping when it shouldn't be.

Get a professional plumber's help

Do you live in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area and need a reliable plumber to help you troubleshoot your water heater problem? Contact MSP Plumbing. We can usually fix the problem the same day.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Troubleshoot a thermostat:

1. Shut off power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater doesn't maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
4. Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat terminals as indicated in the owner's manual. Depending on the model and the terminals tested, the tester should show infinity ( open) or about 0 ( closed).
5. Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
6. If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner's manual.

Test and replace a heating element:

1. Turn off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
   
2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
   
3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
   
4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
   
5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
   
6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
   
7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
   

Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:

1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced. You replaced both elements however check that the lower element is coming on after ther upper one cuts out and is acutally working.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, maybe defective. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

If the dip tube is broken, the incoming cold liquid can mix with the out going hot liquid and cause it to seem as though you are running out.

I don't know how much they are, but you can buy replacement parts on amazon, here: Amazon com 81v40d replacement I hope this was helpful. Have a nice day

The most likely malfunction is that one or both of the heating elements have shorted out. The elements are not that hard to replace but does take large wrenches. The elements can be purchased at Lowe's or HD.

NOTE: I would recommend you replace both heating elements since they seem to go about the same time.

Most electric hot water heaters have two thermostats, one near the top of the tank and one near the bottom, and are covered by removable metal cover plates. The thermostats are pressed firmly against the bare metal wall of the hot water heaters tank.

The top thermostat usually has a high limit switch that will trip if the water gets too hot. When it trips it shuts off the electricity to both the upper and lower heating elements.

To reset the high limit switch there is usually a red button that you must press. When the upper limit switch trips it is often an indication that something else has gone wrong with the heater.

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

Hope this helps out

You have electric water heater.
Electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner.

Reliance is AO Smith company
http://www.aosmith.com/OperatingUnits/Detail.aspx?id=138&ekmensel=c580fa7b_12_0_138_3
http://www.reliancewaterheaters.com/prod/elec.html

Age of Reliance water heater is shown on serial number located on side of tank:
first digit is letter. Next two digits are numbers: for example C06 means 2006.
Serial number also shows model number & wattage of elements in case you need new element from hardware store.

ECO reset button trips when upper thermostat senses temperatures higher than 150 to 180 degrees.
When ECO energy cut off trips, it turns off power at the reset button, so the tank does not continue overheating.
Tripping reset button says tank is receiving electricity, so we can eliminate that suspect.

There are 4 reasons why ECO will trip.
1) Bad upper or lower thermostat: solution replace both thermostats for about 25$. Steps shown in link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
2) Loose wire or shorted wire at or near upper thermostat: Open covers on water heater and inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning.
3) Bad element shorted to ground in center of element: Solution test elements and replace defective element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
4) Factory-installed insulation and cover has been removed from tank: thermostat exposed to cooler temperatures, and misreads tank temperature, and then elements keep heating water.

If you want to test all the parts before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html


Thermostats are generic, and each functions same way and each can replace the other.
Same is true for both upper and lower thermostats

The reset button kicks out because the thermostat detects overheating.
Anything over 150 degrees, the reset kicks out.

This is caused by 4 things.
1) Bad upper or lower thermostat. Thermostat sticking in 'on' position and elements overheating water.
2) Factory-installed insulation and cover are removed
3) Bad element shorted to ground at center of element, and element continues heating with 120V through the ground wire.
4) Loose wire near upper thermostat, that is shorting and causing heat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Solution:
Check for missing insulation.
Check for loose and burned wires.
Replace both upper and lower thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If problems continue, test water heater elements and replace bad element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

If you need more help, add a comment and I will respond.

Two possibilities. 1 failed upper or lower Tstat 2 Shorted element
To test element: disconnect both wires to element terminals. use continuity tester to see if there is continuity through element (one probe on each element terminal) If no continuity element is bad. Then test for continuity between each element terminal and the water heater itself.( one probe on element terminal and one probe grounded on bare metal or inner tank.) If there is continuity from terminal to ground, element is bad and also can cause tank to continue heating even when thermostat shuts off. This is because the thermostat only shuts off one pole of the 220 and a shorted element can continue heating from the 2nd pole.
If both elements test OK and water heater heats the full tank( tank feels hot at bottom element access panel when no hot water for 2 hours) most likely the lower thermostat is bad.