Ge profile wpgt9350c0ww error code

SOURCE: GE Profile Dishwasher not draining

HI,

If the water doesn't drain from your dishwasher, check these:


Drain line/air gap A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.

Pump Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support.

Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.

Drain valve and/or solenoid Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water.

Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.

Belt One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it.

Motor If the motor isn't turning or working, the unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher. If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced.

Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced.

Timer Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon.

Starnley Johnwells

• 1031 Answers
• Posted on Apr 16, 2009

SOURCE: GE Profile PDW8280J10SS: Water won't drain. I

Can you get the water to drain at all in any cycle? If you can, then its possibly the control module .

If you can't get it to drain in other cycles or when you cancel the cycle, then its a possible clog in the drain outlet hose, drain solenoid, or screens.

Here is a good detailed link to check out that explains about it:
http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

Heres another link about general dishwasher draining issues:
http://www.applianceaid.com/drain_wash.html#drain

SOURCE: Will not spin drain properly with or without clothes.

It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump 
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

SOURCE: blocked defroster drain GE profile tfx25pr, tft25pr

Remove the freezer bins and shelves.
Remove the rear freezer panel.
The drain is on the bottom center of the freezer after the rear panel is removed.

SOURCE: GE Profile Dishwasher does not drain. model #

I had a similar problem with a GE GSD5811 model. The hoses were clear, and the auxiliary pump worked fine. It turns out that it was the "piston" assembly that had basically disintegrated over time. This part diverts water to the pump during the drain cycle.

To check it, remove the mesh filter at the rear of the inside of the machine, by carefully unclipping the heater element from the back of the machine and removing the 4 hex-head screws securing the filter panel.) Unscrew the piston assembly from the tub, and pull it out. If the sealing plunger has deteriorated or is jammed, replace it. The part number for the "piston and nut assembly" for my machine (and probably numerous others) is WD24X10018. It should cost anywhere between $10 and 16, depending on where you shop.

Another possibility is a bad drain solenoid. (This is what actually triggers the piston assembly during the drain cycles.)