I've followed all the instructions to the letter for setting the TPU address, and tried changing various setting all over the place but my browser always times out when looking for this address. The device is mounted and pointed at a emitter, and my network connection appears good, I just can't get into the EOC-3220 control screen.
TRY 192.168.1.254 IT WORK FINE FOR ME, AFTER ACCESS I RELOAD A NEW FIRMWARE, AND NOW IS 100% WORKING
This isn't a solution, but I couldn't figure out how to respond. Yes I was able to get on at one point, breifly but lost it soon afterwards. I wouldn't know how to ping even if I knew what command line you are talking about. My best guess if I had to pick from your suggestion is #6 because I did reach it at one point and I've tried with two different computers laptop and PC with same results. I am using the bridge that came with it. I found a method online for resetting the eoc-3220 back to default settings, but it requires a Null modem cable which I don't have. I've been stymied and am currently in the middle of working a string of 12 hour shifts with limited internet access so won't have time to look at the problem again until the weekend.
Have you EVER been able to access the control screen on this network? Can you ping the device from the command line? Did you try to telnet to the device? Without getting into a troubleshooting scenario on my first question, the possible problems are: 1)The device's IP is conflicting with another network device. 2)The device's internal subnet mask is incorrect (most likely it is 255.255.255.0, though) 3)Your subnet mask is not matching the devices. 4)The device is at another IP address instead of 192.168.1.1 (don't laugh and don't trust the documentation, been there, done that) 5) The device reset and defaulted back to factory IP. 6)The device is in a hazy electrical state where it needs a hardware reset. 7)You are trying to connect to it without a switch between it and your computer. 8)The device needs a cross-over cable to connect to your computer directly. Since each one of these items could be the cause, you will have to check and discard them one by one. ZT3000 "Beta tester of "0"s and "1's"
Lest anyone think there are only 8 reasons for this problem, Of course there are other reasons, but hey..it's a start.
ZT3000
"Beta tester of "0"s and "1's"
First, find out which IP address you placed the device on.
If you didn't change it's default IP address, then disconnect the device so it is NOT connected to any network at all and it has NO power (essential step)!
Then go to a command line and type:
ping 192.168.1.1
Hit Enter
If you get 4 ping responses, then the problem is:
There's already a device in your network at the 192.168.1.1 address and since this device sits at 192.168.1.1 from the factory, there is an IP conflict between the two.
If you get 4 time-outs, then come back here and let me know here.
Thanks.
ZT3000
"Beta tester of "0"s and "1's"
Another question:
Do you see any wireless indication, on your desktop or laptop, that this wireless device is even working?
And if you see an indication that it is working, can you reliably connect to it?
(of course, not to the control screen).
ZT3000
"Beta tester of "0"s and "1's"
Mantar,
Based on your Aug 23 response, I'm now pretty sure what the problem is (since we ruled out conflicting IP addresses).
Some devices have an MDI/MDI-X RJ45 port and some don't.
An RJ45 MDI/MDI-X port is an autosensing port that can use either a straight pinnned RJ-45 cable or a cross-over pinned RJ-45 cable in order to communicate to the device.
Of course this device's manual doesn't tell you but...
in order to connect to this device directly from your laptop, you will have to use a cross-over cable (not a null-modem cable).
If you connect the EOC-3220, first, to a switch or router then use a straight thru RJ45 cable (actually it doesn't mnatter which cable you use, since the switch/router understands this).
Straight thru RJ45 cable is the type normally sold at computer stores and office supply stores. If it doesn't say "Cross-Over", then it isn't.
So...
Either buy a "cross-over" cable or use two straight thru (normal) cables.
One straight-thru cable goes between the EOC-3220 and your switch (or router), the other straight-thru cable goes between your desktop/laptop and the switch/router, unless you are connected to your router wirelessly.
A Cross-over cable simply swaps the orange and orange/white wires with the green and green/white wires.
I'll provide a diagram of wiring below.
ZT3000
"Beta tester of "0"s and "1's"
Straight RJ45 cable
Cross-over cable (only ONE side is like this, the other side is like the straight cable)
I've looked thru the manual but it did not mention a physical hardware button for reset purposes.
Inspecting the item, is there any partially hidden or flush surface button that may reset the device. (it would probably be on the device's side that points down when properly setup)
I'm really interested in seeing this device work!
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Okay when not hooked up to the network cable I got four "Destination host unreachable" messages. When I hook up the cable I get four "Request timed out" messages. I don't know if it's relevant but when I just tried to duplicate it on my laptop I go four "Request time out" messages and only by disabling my wireless connection did I go back to unreachable.
In answer to the second question, yes the wireless spot I have the device aimed at definitely works, that's what I'm using now. It's a MetroFi emitter in Portland Oregon three blocks from my house. By walking over here with my laptop I can pick it up fine. However until I get my eoc-3220 programmed to pick it up I have no internet connection at the house, so can't use it to get live help to fix the problem. Catch-22
Weekend is finally here and I have time to work on it. Spent another $27.00 on a Crossover network cable and still am left with nothing but an expensive and not particularly attractive wall ornament. There is absolutely no difference in how it acts with that cable or regular network ethernet cables.
I had purchased a wireless router intending to install that once I had the antenna tuned correctly. I've tried going though that as well as both Laptop and PC. I did get through once briefly so I'm still thinking it's the "stuck in hazy state" problem.
I might have to suck it up and pay someone to hook this thing up for me.
I JUST GOT IT FIXED! I'm using it now. I'm not sure if it was a "hazy state" or bad IP address but a reset worked. I contacted the recommended installation tech company, but they appeared to be too busy to call me back in a timely manner. However he did confirm that the reset required a Null Modem cable and that the port for it was hidden under a panel next to the network port.
I found a null modem cable schematic online, made a couple trips to radio shack for supplies, and built my own null modem cable using a 20 foot coil of rainbow wire and two female 9 pin D-Sub connectors. It worked like a charm. I simply hooked the device to my serial port and did a flash reset/reboot from the huper terminal. When I hung it back up and found 192.168.1.1 first try. Thanks for you help and concern. Now I just have to get my wireless router working.
Sorry? can you give me your schema of null-modem cable, cause i have such problem, but standart cable don`t work
sorry? can you give me your schema for null-modem cable, cause i have such problem, but standart cable doesn`t work
Hi all.
I'm having the same problem: can't browse to 192.168.1.1.
I tried to reset to factory default by a nullmodem cable with the same result.
The network is configured right.
If I try to connect via wireless I see the SSID: 802.11g but it's impossible ti surf anyway.
I tryed RTLAPConf.exe tool that discover IP looking the MAC address but can't find any device.
I think that the web server inside the system is out.
When I try to connect via hyper terminal ( null modem cable) I can reach the linux sh ( shell) were it's possible to send some commands ( like flash reset, ifconfig... ... )
Maybe It's possible to re-flash the firmware by null modem cable on hyper terminal... I don't know.
Please help me.
Thank YOu in advance and sorry for my bad english.
Giuseppe
What was the Null modem config used??
DB-9 connector on one end,
DB-25 on the other end
DB-9 connectors on both ends
Here is the Null modem cable schematic if someone needs it. Probably easier to buy one online, but I couldn't find one in town. The DB9 connection is beneath a plate. Since resetting it the first time I've had no problem with the antennae. Had software problems with Metro-Fi's new Side Guide add on, but managed to live with it,
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