How to connect devices to 3-way video switch box

1. You are not on the right input for the signaling device: Verify which input number (or type ie HDMI/component/video/Cable) your device is connecting to and tune to that input.
2. The signaling device is not powered on. Verify it is on and the cable is properly seated into device and TV.
3. The cable is bad. Try a different cable or use alternate type of connection.
4. The specific input port on the TV is bad. Move the connecting cable to a different port (ie from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2) and tune the TV to that input.
If you are using an Over the Air signal (OTA) with rabbit ears or and antenna use the TV menu to run an auto tuning scan of your local stations.
If you are using a tuning box (cable/satellite) over a coaxial connection check connections and tune the TV to CH 3 or CH 4 and check for picture. There may be a switch on the back of the box indicating CH 3 or CH 4.

change source on tv to the device... if not work turn of tv and turn off box then turn tv on then the box

Page 18 of the manual, you shouldn't need to do steps 2 or 3.

CONNECTING A COMPONENT SOURCE WITH HDMI or DVI CAPABILITY TO INPUT 1 or INPUT 2
1.Connect the HDMI or DVI to HDMI connection cable from the output of the HDTV set top box or DVD player to the HDMI input as shown on the AVC Center below.
2.With DVI output, connect the cable from the AUDIO OUT R of the HDTV set top box or DVD player to the INPUT (AUDIO/R) jack.
3.With DVI output, connect the cable from the AUDIO OUT L of the HDTV set top box or DVD player to the INPUT (AUDIO/L) jack.
4.Press the INPUTS button, then select INPUTS 1 or 2 to view the program from the HDTV set top box or DVD player. The VIDEO OSD label disappears automatically after approximately four seconds.
5.Select ANT A or B from the INPUTS menu to return to the previous channel.
NOTES:1. Completely insert the connection cord plugs when connecting to rear panel jacks. The picture and sound that is played back will be abnormal if the connection is loose.
2. The HDMI input on INPUT 1 or 2 contains the copy protection system called High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP). HDCP is a cryptographic system that encrypts video signals when using HDMI connections to prevent ******* copying of video contents.
3.HDMI is not a "NETWORK" technology. It establishes a one-way point-to-point connection for delivery of uncompressed video to a display.
4.The connected digital output device controls the HDMI interface so proper set-up of device user settings determines final video appearance.


http://tv.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/hitachi/lcd_television_lcd_display_monitor_32hdl51.html?p=18

You need a video switch box, that has two video and audio inputs and a video and audio output that connects to the video and audio connections on the scart cable.
Then you can switch between the DVD player or the freeview box.
These devices are available on the Internet, use Google to search for these devices.

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

Don't used the Blu Ray player on the tv HDMI out put hub.Used the connections for of the Blu Ray player connections by a S-Video cable for the video and the RCA component cable R,W for the connections for the audio out.The high Def.cable box will not work for high Def. this way,but the Blu Ray player will.

If your TV has AV inputs available, you can connect the video player there and switch to that input to watch it. I don't think your model does, though; I think it has only an antenna input connector. This means your set-top box will connect there but you have no place to connect the video player. In fact, most new video players only have AV outputs, and don't have an RF (radio frequency - a channel 3 or 4 TV signal) output connector, and you'd have problems connecting it anyway.

All is not lost, although you'll need some extra parts to hook everything up. I'm assuming the set-top box (STB) is going to your TV on channel 3 or 4, using a cable from the box to the TV antenna connector. If your video player does indeed have an RF output, the simple thing to do is get a splitter. They look like this:



Normally, a splitter is used to break one input signal (into the single connector) into two outputs (the connectors on the other side). But you can also use one backwards to combine two sources. So you can connect the RF cable from the STB to one output jack, connect the video player RF cable to the other, and connect the "input" side of the splitter to your TV antenna jack. If your STB is set for channel 3 output, set the video player for channel 4 so they won't interfere. Then you can tune the TV to channel 3 for TV signals from your STB, and to channel 4 for videos. I know, it sounds confusing.

If your video player doesn't have RF output, but just video and audio outputs, you need an RF converter. This device takes the AV output from the player and generates a channel 3 or 4 RF signal the TV can tune in. A typical converter looks like this:


Connect the AV outputs from the player to the jacks on the converter. The output cable from the STB will go to one of the round antenna connectors on the right, and the cable from the other one goes to your TV. When you aren't playing a DVD or tape, the converter passes the signal from the STB through to the TV. When you turn on the video player, the converter switches and you'll see the picture from the player. Most converters switch automatically, but on some you might have to flip a switch. RF converters are available from retailers who sell TVs or online.

I'm sorry if this seems unnecessarily complicated, but most TV sets today have plenty of inputs for all these things, and usually you just plug in the connecting cables and go. But with older sets or sets that don't offer the inputs, you need to go through these shenanigans. But once you have the parts hooked up, it's not too bad.

Hope this helps, and thanks for using Fixya!

One caveat of most In-Wall electronic switches/timers is that the device _must_ be installed at the switch box that has the power, in your case switch #1. In order to install it at switch #2, in your case, you need an extra wire between the switches (to carry the HOT wire), and unfortunately, the bare ground(ing) wire is not permitted to be used to carry current per National Electric Code (NEC).

In your case the wiring for the ST01 is as follows:

Switch box #1: Connect the incoming White wire to the White wire in the 3-wire cable that goes to switch box #2. Connect the incoming (Black) HOT wire to the Black wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Red wire in the 3-wire cable to the Red wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable to the blue wire on the switch/timer. Connect the green wire on the switch/timer to the 2 bare ground(ing) wires. If you have a metal box this connection should also have a pigtail that connects to the box with a green ground screw.

Switch box #2: Remove all of the existing wires from the 3-way switch. The three-way switch will have 2 screws the same color (usually black) and 1 screw (usually brass). For this scenario, one of the black screws will _not_ be used.

Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1, the Black wire going to the lights, and a short Black pigtail together under one wirenut. The pigtail is then connected to the brass screw on the 3-way switch. The Red wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 is connected to one of the 2 black screws on the 3-way switch (pick one).

In effect you are installing a single switch at switch box #2. In fact, you can use a regular single pole switch if you want too.

To finish, connect the White wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 to the White wire going to the lights.

Grounding is the same as switch #1 except you'll need a pigtail to connect to the green screw on the 3-way switch.

That's it. You may want to check the battery compartment in the switch/timer, as sometimes they put in a pullout plastic tab to keep it from being energized until needed.

Now, the E1210 is a different animal, and can only be used to replace a single pole switch. You could use it by basically passing the power through to switch box #2 from switch box #1 and then cover switch box #1 with a blank plate. The ST01 could be used that way too, in which case the black on the device connects to the hot, the blue to the lights, and the red on the device is not used, nor will the Red wire in the 3-wire cable between the switch boxes be used.

The projector came with three video cables, and one audio. The first of the video cables is for component (three colors, which are blue, green, red) and is used for HD (hi definition) components. The second is an S-Video cable, which is used for just that, S-Video, which is one step below HD. The last type is composite, which is used for regular input. It has one input, which is yellow.

In order to utilize more than one component, you have to have a switching device. Since it is impractical (for me, anyway) to constantly unplug one video cable on the Cinego and plug in another of a different type, you must ensure that all of your components are of the same type. You may convert somewhat between components using cable adapters, but can only do so when the conversion is one level. The levels, from highest to lowest, are thus: HD, Component, S Video, Composite. You can go from one level to another which is one above or below, but cannot jump two levels.

As one example, if you want to utilize the HD capabilities of the Cinego, and you have HD cable or satellite and also a BlueRay disc player, such as a Playstation 3, you connect your HD cable/satellite and the PS3 each to a switching device, and connect the switching device output to the component input on the Cinego. The switching device, if you buy an automatic one, will detect whether the cable box or PS3 is on, and will transmit that signal to your Cinego. You may have to use an HDMI to Component conversion cable, or your switching device may have the ability to input HDMI but output the Component. The Cinego can only input the Component, as it doesn't have the HDMI input connector. The auto switiching device is about $25 and is available at big box retailers such as WalMart. So are the cables available there.

Locate the COMMON wire
connected to first old switch.
It might be attached to a different
colored screw, or find
markings on old switch.
Connect BLACK wire from
switch timer to COMMON
wire, using a twist connector.
Connect the other two wires from the old switch to either the
BLUE and RED wires from the switch timer.
Connect the ground wire from the box to the BARE COPPER
wire on the switch timer. If there is no ground wire, ground the
switch timer to the box. If the box is plastic, connect the bare
copper wire to ground as supplied or contact an electrician.
Locate the COMMON on the second old switch of the 3-way pair.
Connect jumper wire (supplied) from the COMMON terminal
to either of the other terminals on the remote 3-way switch.
Make sure all twist connectors are tight.
Tuck wires into wall boxes leaving room for the devices.
Mount the devices into the wall boxes, then install the wall plates.
Turn power back on at the service panel.
Make sure the switch timer displays “MAN” mode. Do the following
test with the remote switch in each of its 2 positions:
Press the NEXT ON/OFF button on the switch timer several
times. Each time that you push the NEXT ON/OFF button, the
switch controlled light or device (the “load”) should turn on
or off. If so, proceed to Section 3.
If the timer display changes between ON and OFF but the
load does not operate, re-check your wiring and make sure
the load is functional.
If the timer display changes
between ON and OFF but the
load only operates when the
remote switch is in one of
its 2 positions, you need to
turn off the power at the service panel, change the jumper
wire to the other terminal. Then turn power back on at the
service panel and repeat. good luck