Racks rusting and falling apart

go to store and purchase a brand of steel wool with soap in it called S.O.S. this will remove dirt and rust, rinse thoroughly and the paint or clear coat. If the wheel is severely rusted remove and throw in garbage, rust weakens the structural integrity and is a serous danger if its too much for the S.O.S. pad to remove

If the rust is on the exterior of the grill, remove the rust using a steel bristle brush and then smooth it down with sand paper.Spray a light coating of High Temperature Grill Paint (you can find it at most hardware stores and home centers) This first light coat, will act as the primer coat. After it thoroughly dries, apply 2 more light finish coats allowing each coat to dry, before applying the next coat.
Based on the air temperature and the humidity level in your area, wait at least 3 days before using the grill.

If the rust is on the inside of the grill, just removing the rust will generally take care of it As most grill tubs are made of cast aluminum and don't require painting. What may appear to be rust is flaked on food and grease. In which case, a plastic putty knife and a roll of paper towel will take care of it.

And finally, investing in a grill head cover (made for built-in grills), will really help in not allowing the grill to rust again.

Hope this helped you and Happy Grilling!!

Your Reliance serial number shows your water heater was made in July 1994.

Except for the Marathon water heaters, and copper-tank water heaters, all tank-type water heaters are made of steel. That steel has an enamel coating which people call a glass liner.

So in that sense, there is a glass liner.
See a photo of the liner:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Enamel-coated-steel-290.jpg

Also inside the tank is an anode rode.
The anode is made to protect the steel tank.
Anode is made from lower noble metal than steel, so water reacts with the lower noble metal first.
The water eats away the anode rod instead of rusting the tank.
Once the anode rod is gone, the water begins rusting the tank.
The enamel coating does not protect the steel from rusting.
The tank rusts away and begins to leak.
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047047,00.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Hi!!
Sand down the rust, clean the area around it and apply a couple of coats of Appliance Paint of the same color, the more coats you apply, the better protection against rust you'll have. You can find that paint at any HomeDepot or most Hardware Stores. They have it in spray can and nail polish size to apply with a tiny brush.
Don't forget to rate this post!!

Hi,
They are not that hard to replace and you can easily buy the part online...
Here is a tip about how to buy appliance parts online.

How to Buy Appliance Parts Online
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

heatman101

You may need to replace the rack. Dishwasher soap is aggressive and once an area is exposed, it will rust fast. Make sure you don't place sharp objects in direct contact with a rack. The action inside the washer can cause them to move and rub through the metal rack coating.

Maybe . . . remove the lower rack and invert it. Look for cracked or missing plastic coating, exposed, rusted & possibly "swollen" inner steel rod/wire. If found, remove the upper rack and look for more of the same. What you think is "soap scum" is probably rust and other iron compounds leached by the dish soap out of the rusted steel onto the dishes and the dishwasher interior. The following worked for me . . .

To clean the interior (with both racks removed), set to "No Heat" dry, then "Pot & Pan" wash and allow to fill. Open door, dump in a bottle of "Lime A-Way", close & latch door and allow to complete cycle. This should remove most rust and iron-sulphate deposits from interior. If not, scrub them with Lime A-Way and a ScotchBrite pad, then cycle again.

Racks must be replaced (Viking are very expensive, Asko, Bosch, or other lower racks may fit: check your neighbors' racks for fit), upper rack must be Viking unless you can exact-match the Asko or Bosch equivalent.

Possible fix: remove the loose plastic coating and flaking rust with a knife, ruff plastic coating with ScotchBrite, clean with rubbing alcohol, then treat metal/rust with "rust converter" (hardware or home imp store), wash with soapy water, rinse, then clean with rubbing alcohol, dry fully, coat with "high temp" (orange or yellow) silicone sealant (auto part store), covering exposed metal and a half inch or so over the plastic coating. Let set for a day or two.

A trip through the dishwasher for all your stained stainless, glasses and non-metallic coated or non-metallic decorated dishes with Lime A-Way as above (on new or "rebuilt" racks) should get the metallic scum and rust off them.

We Use Debruce Polish on all our cooktops. Debruce also works on stainless steel and polished granite, marble, porcelain, formica and glass. DeBruce is non-toxic odor-less and eco-friendly. You can get DeBruce on line at debrucepolish.com.

This is Maytags solution


Do the dishwasher racks have chips or scratches showing exposed metal underneath?
If minor rack repairs are needed, a dishwasher rack repair kit just might work. To review this product or purchase the kit, click here.
Should you purchase the kit online, enter Promo Code F9A75Q4 in the Review Order screen when you check out to receive a 10% discount on your order.
For more severe rack damage, a replacement rack may need to be purchased; call the Maytag Customer eXperience Center toll-free at 1-866-616-2601, Monday-Friday, 8AM-6PM, Eastern Time.

I would call the toll free number and see if a free replacement is available. If not at least try to get a big discount on replacing them.

Good luck and thanks for using Fix Ya, please take the time to rate this solution (from Fix Ya, not Maytag, I didn't like their solution).

clarkco