I have a lanzar vibe 286 4000 watt amp. i have a 4ga. wiring kit. It was working when i first hooked up now it wont even turn on, i tried my old amp and it does the same thing. i sold my old amp and it works fine with the guy who bought it. I dont know what this could mean so if anyone has an idea i would appreciate it..??? could i just need a new cd player???
Your amp will end up catching on fire... the ground on the inside (JUMPER) disconnected from my laznar, and it fried one of the transistors, open up your amp and check the components, if one is lose resolder it. DO NOT OPEN IF YOU HAVE A WARRANTY STILL!!!
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This sounds like a problem with the power input to the amplifier; it's possible, but unlikely, that your CD player is causing it.
Before you can do any real troubleshooting, you need a voltmeter. When your CD player is turned on, you should get a voltmeter reading of around 12 volts at the amplifier's remote terminal and B+ (power) terminal.
If your main power wire doesn't show voltage, check for a loose or corroded connection at the battery or fuseholder, and try replacing the fuse (even if it looks okay). If there's no voltage on the remote wire, it may be pinched or shorted between the CD player and the amplifier, or the CD player may be faulty. If you get a good voltage reading on both wires, but the amp won't turn on, then you have a problem in the amplifier.
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Yes it should do the job. You will need to wire the sub in series and make sure you have a 4ohm load on the amp. It should be right at around 700 watts RMS @ 12-13 volts.
You can only reset it by disconnecting power to it. If it is in protect you may want to check your speakers and speaker wires for shorts and/or grounds. If they check out all right you may have internal problems in the amp.
try looking it up on you tube ive seen a introductory on how its done ..just type in how to hook up an amp in my living room i dont think you will need a battery..lol
protect mode usaully means that something has disrupted the power of feed lines to the subwoofer/speakers possibly fuse is blown in amp or amp is blown in which we hope not. see if you have a warrenty if blown and send back or bring it to where you purchased it from.
Double check your connections. Use volt meter to co firm proper voltage. A test light can still light up with low vol
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With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
You will need to show it to a service technician as it seems the output section has blown so it remains in protect mode. One reason (could be) that the input to the amp was high and may have been clipping for some time before the amp decided it could take it no more
Check your speaker load. It probably should be 4 ohms per channel. Also, if you are bridging then you must double your ohms load. It may be that your old amp could tolerate a lower impedence (ohms load) than the new amp. Do this now so you don't fry your amp. Good luck.
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