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4kw rated oven ,will it be alright to use 10mm cable to existing connector unit that then goes to cut off switch then to fuse box without affecting oven power or should it be 6mm ,appreciate your advice.thanks
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If your oven has the control panel in the door, try this...
Open the top door and in the bottom right you'll find a flat cable that goes from the top door into the unit. It'll be just at the hinge.
Pull up on that cable and push it up into the top door. It will likely move just a little. Whilst holding that cable up into the top door look at the control panel and see if it begins behaving normally.
GE had a design problem with the connector on that ribbon cable that is inside the door with the control panel. There is no lock on the connector to hold the cable into the plug. It comes loose (just a little) and can give "probe light" error, "overtemp error" (on a cool oven), and any and all sorts of other unusual errors. The plug will even appear to be connected properly when only one or two terminals of the cable aren't making good contact.
It is poor design for a sliding card / cable configuration. The fix is to come up with a way of holding the cable into the plug. Since one or more connectors in the cable lose connection, some of the controls will be OK and others won't.
If you can "fix" the problem by wiggling that cable then you can have a repairman come out and rig something to hold the cable into the plug.
I took my double oven apart and used duct tape and it lasted a year. I used velcro and it seemed to work better. If it fails again I'm going to cut a couple of cable ties and glue them to the cable and plug to create a semi-permanent connection.
Try this..... The problems that the cable causes vary all over the place since it is dependent on which pin is not making good contact in the plug.
If your oven has the control panel in the door, try this...
Open the top door and in the bottom right you'll find a flat cable that goes from the top door into the unit. It'll be just at the hinge.
Pull up on that cable and push it up into the top door. It will likely move just a little. Whilst holding that cable up into the top door look at the control panel and see if it begins behaving normally.
GE had a design problem with the connector on that ribbon cable that is inside the door with the control panel. There is no lock on the connector to hold the cable into the plug. It comes loose (just a little) and can give "probe light" error, "overtemp error" (on a cool oven), and any and all sorts of other unusual errors. The plug will even appear to be connected properly when only one or two terminals of the cable aren't making good contact.
It is poor design for a sliding card / cable configuration. The fix is to come up with a way of holding the cable into the plug. Since one or more connectors in the cable lose connection, some of the controls will be OK and others won't.
If you can "fix" the problem by wiggling that cable then you can have a repairman come out and rig something to hold the cable into the plug.
I took my double oven apart and used duct tape and it lasted a year. I used velcro and it seemed to work better. If it fails again I'm going to cut a couple of cable ties and glue them to the cable and plug to create a semi-permanent connection.
If your oven has the control panel in the door, try this...
Open the top door and in the bottom right you'll find a flat cable that goes from the top door into the unit. It'll be just at the hinge.
Pull up on that cable and push it up into the top door. It will likely move just a little. Whilst holding that cable up into the top door look at the control panel and see if it begins behaving normally.
GE had a design problem with the connector on that ribbon cable that is inside the door with the control panel. There is no lock on the connector to hold the cable into the plug. It comes loose (just a little) and can give "probe light" error, "overtemp error" (on a cool oven), and any and all sorts of other unusual errors. The plug will even appear to be connected properly when only one or two terminals of the cable aren't making good contact.
It is poor design for a sliding card / cable configuration. The fix is to come up with a way of holding the cable into the plug. Since one or more connectors in the cable lose connection, some of the controls will be OK and others won't.
If you can "fix" the problem by wiggling that cable then you can have a repairman come out and rig something to hold the cable into the plug.
I took my double oven apart and used duct tape and it lasted a year. I used velcro and it seemed to work better. If it fails again I'm going to cut a couple of cable ties and glue them to the cable and plug to create a semi-permanent connection.
It sounds like you have a problem with the wire to the cooker. Possible that the cable has become broke inside.Best rewire with 10mm cable and see if it works.
There are a couple of quick things to check. First, check the fuses, there will usually be a row of scew-in fuses, probably in the upper cabinet where the controls are. Ensure that the oven controls are set to "off" before you remove any fuses, it is safer. If the fuses are alright, check the oven timer, as many older mechanical timers may stick and effectively "lock-out" the oven. It is not uncommon for a wiring connection to fail, but unless you are comfortable and competant with electrical repairs you may wish to call a service tech. Also, please be aware that the wiring and all the connectors must be rated for use in hot appliances. I hope that this is helpful, Rob
hELLO THERE: on these ovens the f-3 can sometime be incorporated with the f-4 error code also so here is the code and the things to look for both ok ?
F3 - F4
Open
oven temperature
sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) or, shorted oven
temperature
sensor. Could be a result of: ·
contamination
on terminals ·
pinched
wire in oven temperature sensor circuit ·
cold
solder joint on control.
·
Disconnect
power to range
and remove oven temperature sensor connector from
control. · Measure
oven temperature sensor resistance at oven
temperature sensor
connector (take care not to damage terminals in
block) - Should
read 1100 ohms at room temperature (approx 72
degrees F). · Measure each oven
temperature
sensor lead from connector block to ground. If
shorted, look
for pinched or cut wire in oven temperature sensor
circuit. · Check connector
terminals -
Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair
or replace.
If all above is ok replace control.
Hi, i would check the pressure switch and its connection as well. either the switch is malfunctioning or the wires and connectors are corroded. simplyreplacing the wires or switch will fix this issue. the switch is usually located on the rim of the inside of the oven door. it will make contact with the oven door and as the oven door closes, the pressure switch is depressed inwards, thus, opening the circuit and cutting power to the light.
6mm is the norm for wiring in the majority of electric ovens, you could fit 10mm, but it is is not really needed, unless you want to do it that way.
Please rate my fixya solution.
Thankyou.
I'm assuming you are speaking of the line circuit breaker to the stove. If that is the case and there are ** other problems that you k**w of, it is possible that the breaker has gone bad....they do. Get the same brand and rating as you had originally installed. Cut your main feed and open the terminal panel and remove and replace the unit. Restart main feed and set breaker on. If you continue to have issues, check all wiring to your stove...a loose wire or corroded contact point may be a second issue.
F3 - F4
Open oven temperature sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) or, shorted oven temperature sensor. Could be a result of: · contamination on terminals · pinched wire in oven temperature sensor circuit · cold solder joint on control.
· Disconnect power to range and remove oven temperature sensor connector from control. · Measure oven temperature sensor resistance at oven temperature sensor connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100 ohms at room temperature (approx 72 degrees F). · Measure each oven temperature sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in oven temperature sensor circuit. · Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace. If all above is ok replace control.
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