Try this..... The problems that the cable causes vary all over the place since it is dependent on which pin is not making good contact in the plug.
If your oven has the control panel in the door, try this...
Open the top door and in the bottom right you'll find a flat cable that goes from the top door into the unit. It'll be just at the hinge.
Pull up on that cable and push it up into the top door. It will likely move just a little. Whilst holding that cable up into the top door look at the control panel and see if it begins behaving normally.
GE had a design problem with the connector on that ribbon cable that is inside the door with the control panel. There is no lock on the connector to hold the cable into the plug. It comes loose (just a little) and can give "probe light" error, "overtemp error" (on a cool oven), and any and all sorts of other unusual errors. The plug will even appear to be connected properly when only one or two terminals of the cable aren't making good contact.
It is poor design for a sliding card / cable configuration. The fix is to come up with a way of holding the cable into the plug. Since one or more connectors in the cable lose connection, some of the controls will be OK and others won't.
If you can "fix" the problem by wiggling that cable then you can have a repairman come out and rig something to hold the cable into the plug.
I took my double oven apart and used duct tape and it lasted a year. I used velcro and it seemed to work better. If it fails again I'm going to cut a couple of cable ties and glue them to the cable and plug to create a semi-permanent connection.
good luck
SOURCE: timer clock on bosch double oven
Please follow this link and download the instructions.
Manual
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SOURCE: Dim LCD's on DCS Double Wall Oven
Had the same problem last week - called DCS (which automatically transferred me to Fischer-Paykel) and was able to order the part from them. They knew exactly what it was, and shipped to me in CA from CA, it was less than $90. Just installed it, and the new one works swell. One suggestion - I drew with a Sharpie on one side of each of the three parts that plug into the board to help align the new one, and to install the wide ribbon cable (not really a cable, but you'll know what I mean), pull up on the two side pieces and the ribbon pulls right out. Keep it up and slide the new one in and then push the black piece down. That was the only part that took me a minute to figure out.
SOURCE: GE double oven wall, JKP85B0A3BB
I would start by checking all of the door switches. Once you remove the shell, you will see them all on a rail where the door latch goes. Some will be normally open, some normally closed. If they all check out, check all of your overloads and thermal fuses. They should all read closed. If they all check out as well, replace your magnatron, capacitor, and diodes.
SOURCE: Double GE wall oven - F7 code
from repairclinic.com:
F7
A = Function
pad button stuck or
B = Bad clock
Unstick button
or
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
It looks like you have a function button pad stuck or a bad clock.
Unstick button or replace electronic range control.
SOURCE: Jenn-Air Wall Oven Model #WW30430P F5 Fault Code
I have the exact same problem with an F5 fault code. I also have a new clock assembly. RepairClinic.com said "Jenn Air fault code F5 = Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree / Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Jenn Air Fault code for newer models F5 = Power to element relays disabled in cook mode
1. Intermittent oven temperature sensor or wire harness or,
2. Intermittent contact on power relay board"
This doesn't help since it is too technical. What should I do next?
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