20 Most Recent Fuji FinePix S2 Pro Digital Camera - Page 4 Questions & Answers

u need to format the card. then u can tell the camera where to save pix. stop in any camera department and they will show u.

try getting new batteries.. sometimes the rechargable ones just lose the charge.. instead of rechargables try using throw aways. you can try and contact fuji but like myself and others they will just give you 5 differant numbers to call and the problem will not be solved

http://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportRepairContent.do?prodcat=507205

This is the website for getting repairs, but since you live in India then you may need to contact their Contact Center to find out where you need to send your camera for international repairs.

Hope this helps : )

Check your battery tray and that it has clean contacts. I'm sure you will find that if you place some pressure on the tray to push the batterys in just that fraction more when you take a pic that it will work fine and wont do the annoying beep and shut off. Maybe it has become a little loose over time and isint quite as tight on the contacts as it used to be.

If your lithium batteries are depleted, having them in the camera will shut it down. A common cause of depleting the lithium batteries is leaving them in the camera while using the AC power adapter. For some odd reason, the Fuji engineers did not build in a disconnect circuit when on AC power. You should always remove the lithium batteries when using the AC adapter.

The Fuji S2 will run fine without the lithium batteries, except that you will not be able to use the built-in flash. Fuji recommends that as an "emergency" procedure, but I ran my S2 off NiMH AAs only for my heavy use over four years with no adverse effects.

If you buy the MB-16 battery pack or one of the modified versions for the S2, you would be able to use 8 AA batteries to power the camera, including the built-in flash, and never touch another lithium battery. The MB-16 itself does require some modification in filing off edges around the base and building up material around the post to firmly engage the switch you found.

The Fuji S2 sensor is noted for this red sensitivity. Here's a few different approaches to getting the shot with the S2, all of which require some experimentation.

1. Set the "Color" and "Tone" Function options to "ORG". Underexpose the shot. Progressively change the exposure compensation downward until when checking the histogram, the red channel does not show saturation at the high end. Advantages: this is the simplest approach to getting the picture. Disadvantages: the S2 already had a fairly limited dynamic range, and this will make things worse for the parts of the photo that are not red. For the surgical setting and use of a ringflash, this may not be much of a disadvantage, since a lot of the stuff of interest will be red, and ringflash illumination generally is of lower contrast than directional lighting.

2. Set the "Color" and "Tone" Function options to "ORG". Use a custom white balance. The idea here is to have the camera adjust the red channel sensitivity itself, and leave the blue and green channels alone. To do this, start with several sheets of white paper and a red or pink marker or highlighter. Scribble with the marker across a sheet, then use that to set a custom white balance. Take a test shot of the red stuff that has been problematic, and see whether the histogram for the red channel shows that there is no saturation at the high end. Repeat this with progressively more red or pink on each sheet used to set the custom white balance until you find the custom white balance that takes enough of the edge off the red channel response. Alternative: I just tried out making a gradient across an 8.5x11" sheet of paper going from white to about 30% red saturation. I can set more or less red adjustment in a custom white balance just by pointing the camera at different parts of the page. This seems to work OK for me. Advantage: can allow the full dynamic range of the sensor to be used. Disadvantages: the experimentation period is likely to take a while to get the best results, and the final images are unlikely to look completely natural.

3. Set the "Color" Function option to "B/W". Use a green or cyan filter on the lens to cut the amount that the red color channel contributes to the final image. Advantages: this is fairly simple as an approach. A similar post-processing technique can be applied to the photos that you already have, by nulling out the red channel contribution and desaturating the blue and green channels to produce a grayscale image. Disadvantages: you lose the color information entirely. Since much of what you want information about is colored red anyway, the organs are likely to appear quite dark when only taking the blue and green channel contributions to the image.

There are three possible solutions for you:

1. Just use the Daylight (direct sun) white balance setting. Electronic flash is typically close to the direct sunlight setting for white balance. Advantages: it is simple. Disadvantages: if you are balancing electronic flash with ambient light, you are likely to have an odd mixture of lighting, with the ambient lighting tending toward red (if incandescent) or green (if flourescent).

2. Get a Wratten 85 color correction gel that you can cover your flash's head with, and use the Tungsten white balance setting. This will bring your flash output into line with existing incandescent light sources. Advantages: almost as simple as (1), and allows you to come close to matching a common indoor lighting situation. This will produce more natural-looking environmental shots if you balance the flash and incandescent ambient light contributions to the exposure. Disadvantages: large gel filters get expensive. You may be able to obtain something close to the Wratten 85 color correction filter from a theater supply house more cheaply. Roscolux #3408 is slightly weaker and #3411 is slightly stronger than the Wratten 85. If you have to balance flash with flourescent light sources, try a Roscolux in the cyan series leading to #4360. Some experimentation is likely to be required. The place I looked online offered the Roscolux in 20x24" sheets for about $7 per sheet, a bargain compared to the optical-grade Wratten filters.

3. Set a custom white balance. This is not too difficult, and it will definitely provide the best approximation to your desired white balance that you will obtain in the field. Advantages: this will allow you to reproduce white accurately even with mixed lighting sources. Combine with gel over flash of (2) for the very best approach to balanced flash/incandescent lighting situations. Disadvantages: requires a "white" target (can be a neutral gray photo card, for example) and some additional time before a photo session.

You can obtain some striking effects by purposely mixing color temperature light sources. But day in and day out, getting a balanced shot is a skill that it pays to cultivate.

Maybe the lens needs adjustment. The info on this page may help. Copy and paste this link for more info.


http://www.fixya.com/PostAnswer.aspx?thid=1841738&prdid=447928&ctgid=67

You might be able to compensate for the flash from within the camera, under lighting. I've already found that setting it for fluorescent while using tungston works well, depending on what main colors you are shooting. Reflectivity can really change a final product.

Generally, in indicator on the back display shows empty battery; sometimes after a short a message Err on a display

the lithium batteries power the flash and some of the metering. But if they drop below a certain power, the camera dies. The F33 error is probably the accidental movement of the aperture ring on the lense. If you get the error, check the aperture ring is set.

Sounds to me like a CCD problem, which is a bad thing. CCD faults were quite common in the early S2's. It would be worth contacting Fuji about.

can you insert a few images into the thread to have a look at. Need more than one to check consistency of problem.

Could be CCD Failure ... known as ' Black Screen of Death'.
Have CCD cleaned at a reputable camera (not chain) shop and they'll test it.
Fuji were replacing units suffering this problem at one stage.

F1 or 4 are white balance memories, rather than buttons to set the WB.
Menu > Custom WB > Right Arrow > Select F1 or F4 > 
Then put your piece of white card in front of the lense and hit the shutter button. Make sure you haev enough light though !
dave

Best thing you can do is focus manually, using the little green dot in the bottom left hand corner of the viewfinder for assistance.
The 'lag' is due to the camera deciding the focus point, passing it to the motor in the lens, by which time the subject hs moved and so it tries to fix again by moving through the range.

Its annoying, but focusing manually, although not a solution per se, is the only option.
Sorry mate.

couple of things:
I take it that "Err" shows on the display ? This can be caused by a number of things, including the aperture ring on the lense being in the wrong position. Make sure its set to the orange number. The 'err' message isnt generally shown for a power problem. If you have a DC power lead, attach that and see if you can get the camera to work.
Batteries are a nightmare for the S2.
Firstly, if looking for rechargeable AA's, you need at least 2300mAh. Maplin are doing a good deal till the end of the month on them; http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=46414
If you have the small lithium batteries in, then take them out. If the camera senses that they are in there, it will try and use them -even if they are depleted.You can replace them with CR123a batteries, but unless you want to use the on-camera flash, I wouldnt bother. DONT BUY RECHARGEABLE CR123A s !! They do not have anywhere near enough power.
Summary; Check aperture ring remove/replace CR123a (High quality replacement) Use high power AA's
let us know if this works

Is this the same on computer screen and when printed?

Well, it looks that FE message means that the camera is confused. I saw this message when I put a non-D lens and automatic TTL flash  (which does require D lens to measure a distance). Usually putting the camera (or flash in my case) into manual mode got rid of the error.

Err after a shot usually means bad AAA batteries. Change to alcaline or NiMH rechargable.

take the lens cover off ? :)