Top 20 Mitsubishi VS-55705 55" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

Buy a new TV, its not worth repairing an almost 20 yr old TV

"12" is no error, no problem. Also, if you unplug TV power, you lose all errors in memory.

depends what its plugged into hdmi, scart ect press source with dvd player on until you see a picture ( can also be a button with a tv and an arrow in it )

Two things here:1. This set MAY have the self check feature if made after 1999 or so: if power light (green?) comes on for a few seconds and goes off---on front of set press and hold both the input and menu buttons at same time for at least 5 seconds and release both.If it has the feature the power light will blink a two digit error code like 2 blinks, 2 blinks and pause and repeat the code for a total of 5 times.If set has been unplugged it will clear the buffer of errors--you will have to turn set on and when it fails repeat the test.If you find an error code let me know what it is.2. Set is old enough the issue may be one of bad solder connections that develop with age---this will require a different approach--look for error codes if the model has the self check feature already described first.

Native resolution of the set is 720p 1366 x 768

THIS is a 1999 model VZ7 chassis and it uses two of the STK-392-110 CHIPS FOR CONVERGENCE.

If picture looks 3d or bowed with colors out of place or around letters etc, the chips need to be replaced.

I will attach photo of what the chips look like--one used here is the most popular one and used in many brands of sets.

Total parts cost for a pair will be under 20 dollars and repair takes about a hour.

If the picture or information I have provided told you something you did not know rate this solution as very helpful as I do this here for free.

SD TECH








This is from a Hitachi but your set uses the same two black chips.

If it's Comcast, you need a box.

Hi,
Model number and brand info of your tv will be helpful to understand the problem.
Thanks.

Projection sets have two very common problems.

The first common problem is convergence


These sets need to have all three colors - RED - BLUE - GREEN - lined up correctly on the screen in order for the picture to look normal. This is called convergence.

When its out of alignment the video will look 3-D, wavy, distorted, etc. Most of the time you just need to adjust your convergence in the menu. If you cannot adjust it in the menu - then your convergence is broken and needs to be repaired. Convergence problems are very common on all Projection TV sets including Sony, Samsung,JVC,Philip Magnavox,Panasonic,Akai,Pioneer, Hitachi,Mitsubishi,Zenith and others.
You can get more information and a DIY convergenece repair kit with instructions from the link below.

Here are some of the most common problems with these sets...

*Screen Looks 3-D
*Colors wont align
*Screen may look distorted or warped
*No Audio/Video - TV Shuts down - May also make a constant chirping sound

Problem #2 - Another common problem is dull or washed out video.

Your set may have one or more of the following symptoms....

*Dull looking picture
*White looking picture
*Halos around objects
*Red/Orange looking picture

You can see some more examples and find a fix using this link on Fixya http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

Your symptom sounds like at least one damaged convergence IC.

On Mitsubishi's you can sometimes rework the solder connections on each of these IC’s, although, if the convergence does not fix itself from time to time, you most likely do not have a bad solder connection. You will have a faulty IC. I recommend replacing them both at the same time because the chips legs can fall off due to the heat of the IC. If you have a good low wattage soldering iron ~ 45W (available at radio shack) you can perform the repair yourself, and this will most likely take care of the entire issue.


I like to remove the board that the IC’s are on so that I can unsolder the connections and clean then up using solder wick (this is also available from radio shack). Removing the board is not a real issue as the connectors are all labeled with an alpha number, so that you can connect them back real easy. There are three in the middle towards the front that I like to mark with a sharpie as they are the red green and blue convergence coil connections (they are all the same size in a row). Just mark them with slashes, like I, II, III, or something like that. If you mix them up it is not a big issue, you can test swapping them around until the picture lines up.

Please be sure to remove the entire white heat sink compound on the heat sink and apply an even coating over the back of the new IC’s. You should also bolt them down before you solder them in so that you have them at the correct height.

There are two very large IC’s that control the convergence in a big screen set. They are secured to a very large aluminum heat sink. I think that the IC numbers will be IC8001, 80002.


The IC’s are large and black, you cannot miss them. They will usually have an STKXXX-XXX number on them.

This repair from a good technician will normally run from $250.00 - $300.00, and sometimes more depending on your area.

There are several schools of thought on the replacement of parts and I firmly believe that you get what you pay for, so don’t buy the cheapest IC’s that you can find. One company I worked for tried this and it only caused more work for the technicians, as we had to replace them with the more expensive ones in the end. I would think that you should be able to find these for around $60.00 each. If you can find the exact Hitachi part, or Sanyo, even though the numbers on the front are the same, and they look exactly like the $10.00 ones, they are better and more reliable.

I usually order my parts from Andrews Electronics in California, they will have the OEM components that you will need.
Their site is http://www.andrewselectronics.com/welcome.aspx
And their phone number is a 24-Hour Order Desk: (800) 274-4666
I recommend the phone order so you can talk to the person about the different types of IC’s that are available.

You can also try http://www.tvrepairkits.com/ , I have not tried them yet, but they do carry OEM or better parts.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.

Check pico fused F904 and F905 for continuity. If either fuses are bad, suspect defective convergence ICs 8c01 and 8c02.
good luck

This sounds like the most common thing that fails on projection TV's, regardless of the brand. The convergence circuit has two, or sometimes three STK IC chips mounted on heat sinks to drive the convergence yokes. They typically last anywhere from 5-10 years, then they fail. It sounds like in your case, the solder joints on the bottom of one of these chips may be failing and some fresh solder will make it go for a while. If it was my set, I would go ahead and replace both STK chips once I took the trouble to take it apart.

the device button on the front panel is being held open. This is something that would happen over time, nothing that you can do to prevent it. I would recommend getting a button and soldering it on to the front panel.

Projection TV sets have several common problems listed below.

Problem #1) Convergence

Symptoms:

• Screen Looks 3-D
• Colors wont align
• Screen may look distorted
• No Audio/Video - makes a chirping sound.

Example Photo:

Problem #2 CRT Fluid has clouded over.

Symptoms

• Dull Video, Washed out
• White/Bright looking video
• Halos around objects
• Red/Orange looking

Example Photo:


You can see more examples and find a fix here...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

A couple of things come to mind I've seen a leaky capacitor on the regulated 9 volt line cause this and also leaky capacitors on the PIP module but I think the latter was on an older model than yours. If you don't know what these things are you should probably let a pro do it but it should be a fairly reasonable repair. Good Luck.

Well the "B" is the B tuner make sure you have the cable on the "B" input on the back of the set. If so, does the "A" work? If the A works then you can just use it and you probably have a bad tuner in the TV but you have 2 in this set. If niether work you've got problems. You might check the Home theater settings in the menu under A/V reciever. Mitsubishi used to lock the inputs to a certain input or channel for use with a monitor out on a reciever. If none of this helps better get a pro to look. Good Luck

i have same problem, i have 55 projection tv mitsubishi, i get those white lines. how can i fix the problem.?

thank you.

This is the VZ1 Chassis.. CHECK FOR 1200 VDC AT PIN 1 OF CONNECTOR "DK". IF LOW OR MISSING CHECK R5D9 100 OHM 1/2 OFF PIN 1 OF THE FLYBACK ON THE MAIN PCB. 2. CHECK IC401 PIN 8 FOR 28 VDC IF MISSING CHECK R510 1.2 OHM 1/2 W OFF PIN 5 OF THE FLYBACK. IF OPEN IC401 PART # 272P239 If those voltages check out let me know and we will go to the next level. Two other questions do you have video through the pip with the alternate input? and do you have on screen display when you push menu on the remote?

which lens are you talking about?

there is no such one i think