I'm sorry but, if you cannot see where it is leaking from, you can appreciate that it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess exactly from where it is leaking without being there and looking ;-0(
I fear that you only real option is another service call UNLESS you can work out where the leak is and tell us.
I'd try laying in some double sided tape...not pressed in there but just make ya a loop down at the bottom and run it in the spin cycle a few seconds..
If the coins come out, maybe they can catch on the tape.
Hi,
Apparently your hoses are switched, it means you rinse cycle is pumping in hot water instead of cold. Turn off the water to the washer, switch hoes connections to washer or the wall, not both. This should fix the problem..
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There is likely to be a problem with either the door/lid solenoid/lock or the 'door/lid closed' sensor requiring a service engineer's attention I suggest ;-0(
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Thanks and good luck!
John C
The F51 code is a motor rotor position sensor (RPS) feedback error. In other words the control board is not sensing any motor rotation ive seen this same problem in whirlpools calypso, cabrio, and kenmore's oasis you will need to support the machine on a diagonal and go in from under neath removing the motor to gain acces to the rps sensor if you have any further questions message me back and dont be surprised these codes usually hide other codes in the kenmore i mentioned i went from rps sensor to lid switch to erc to entire wiring harness cost me like 260 in parts for a machine that maybe costed 499 at that time not a great fan of the rps sensor in any unit they seem to fail within 3 years hope this helps and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks Rick
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly The F51 code is a motor rotor position sensor (RPS) feedback error. In other words the control board is not sensing any motor rotation. It is fixable but will result in the replacement of failed parts. (Sensor or electronic control board) The control board is not cheap. Hopefully you only have a failed sensor.
Thanks for choosing FixYa, Kelly
Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.
HC" (Cold and Hot hoses switched) This code will appear at the end of the wash cycle to indicate that the cold and hot water inlet hoses are switched. See "Connect the Inlet Hoses", in the Installation Instructions.
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LF means long fill. Turn off the water and remove the hoses from the back of the machine, inspect the screens inside the washer water valve for debris. Stick the hoses into the washer tub and turn the water on, verify you have good water flow. If all of this checks ok then you either have a bad water valve or the control is sending power to the secondary diverter valve but not the primary hot/cold valve or vise versa.
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Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
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If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.
Unfortunately, if you can't get to it, you need a new machine. Normally you would seal with silicone or epoxy putty. The only thing I can can think of is injecting polyurethane expanding foam into the area, but go easy it expands for 10 minutes and you would have to shield any moving parts.
Most parts are obsolete.
