Main crank to balance shaft timing guide it snapt ive replaced it but i need to set the cam timing but there's no marks to show if the timing is correct.can you help thanks

there are timing marke on the cam pulleys and crank shaft this is assuming that cams havnt been loosend

Replacing the cam seal. You had to pull the timing belt. Because you had to remove the cam gear. This is where the problem is. Reset the timing and follow the manual to exact procedures. I recommend you replace all the timing components. Also, when you set the timing belt tensioner, Pry on it to get maximum tension. Before you put it together, turn the crank shaft two full turns (by hand/wrench/socket. Make sure it is on the marks. then reassemble.

There is a mark on the cam pulley that lines up with a mark on the head. Bring the crank shaft to 0 on the timing guide and put the belt on.

diagrams I have show a twin cam set up with 2 balancing shafts. The marks on the cam shaft point to (left cam shaft 11 oclock the mark on the right point to the 1 oclock position. The chain will have 3 black links-- the top black links will be at the timing marks on the shafts with the 3rd black link directly at 6 oclock facing a mark on the gear. The balancer marks both point to the 1 oclock position with black links on each and the 3rd black link will be facing a mark to the 7 oclock position on the crankahaft gear. Everything is done with the piston at TDC no 1 cylinder so get it there before you put the cam shafts in position or you will bend valves. Crank shaft gear is not keyed to the crank shaft. there are dots on the right hand balancer shaft gears and these dots will be as the 2 dots on adjacent teeth either side of a dot on the meshing gear. I suppose that is all as clear as mud but if you got this far then you will see the marks and marked links on the chains

It is possible to set the timing wrong....if the belt broke well running I believe this is an interference motor..meaning if the timing is off the cylinder can move up and smack a Valve being exhaust or intake. which means a valve can break or bend cause lack of seal thus no compression. When setting the timing you want to align your marks with Cylinder # 1 it needs to be on the compression stroke..you can do this by removing cyl 1 spark plug and rotating the crankshaft with your finger over the spark plug hole you will feel air press against your finger meaning all valves are closed and your in compression stroke. Then line up your marks and you should have it...I would consider purchasing a compression tester to make sure no damage to the cylinder head....good luck hope this helps

Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets

some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com

My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.

Hard to explain here... but I believe that car also has the balance shaft which needs to be timed as well. The camshaft has 2 lines which line up to the top of the head, and a "up" or "top" mark at the top.
Crank is set to 0 degrees.

get a book i dont thing you have a clue whats going on here . you set the crank shaft and the came shaft marks on a 2.2 thats it . if you go to mitchell repair manuals you can buy a manual for $9.99 . may save you a big head ach

I had a 2.4 L engine in a caravan and replace the water pump that was controlled by the timing belt.
I was having the same problem, I called my bother in law to help. The crank shaft has to stay perfectly timing on the low end. The cam shaft marks are set exactly one half of a tooth apart. So when looking at it, The left side cam gear mark is a half a tooth higher then the right side. Then you have to try and slip on the belt . That is the easy part. When letting go of the timing belt tensioner the marks should line up perfectly across from each other. You have to take off the belt again and make sure you keep correct tension on the crank shaft so the mark is not moving when you are putting on the belt. There is a web site call Alldata.com. The web site cost a few dollars but it willl give you a detail instructions on how to time the engine with pictures to guide you. This is the same web site the pro's use.

I hope this has been helpful.

Oh, by the way you are lucky because the engine is not an interferrence type , so you can not damage the valves at least. Since you know the oil pump is out of time , check all the spark plugs again , they are probably oil soaked .