20 Most Recent 1996 Ford Explorer Questions & Answers

I think that I answered this already it's your brake light switch on the brake pedal down by the steering column it has a plug with a hitch pin holding it on the bracket

Because its your brake pedal switch that has failed when it fails it makes the brake pedal switch keep the lights on to show you that it's broken replace the switch and it will stop make sure the switch and spacers go back in the way you took them out

i know this might seem like a pain but remove your starter again and test it with jumper cables to see if the pinion drive extends and rotates if it doesnt then your starter is defective

Hope this helps

When checking a draw you have to wait to check till all modules have powered down including Gem module. This can take up to 30 min. Specs are 50 ma draw. To check get you a test light take off the postitive cable, " you can also use a meter", now you have to put the light in series withe the battery and cable. Clamp one side of test light to battery cable the other side to battery post WITH CABLE OFF THE WHOLE TIME. Now if you open doors turn any switches you will have to restart your 30min. then you can check and see if unplugging module, if that fixed problem. what we do is open the doors before, then take a screw driver and close the door latch so that you can get in and out of the car without turning something on

Hi,

Try this pinpoint test.


PINPOINT TEST B: WINDSHIELD WIPERS INOPERATIVE OR ERRATIC ON LOW, HIGH SPEED WORKS


B1 CHECK WIPER OPERATION

* Run wipers on High.

* Do wipers hesitate when passing through the PARK position?

Yes
GO to B2 .
No
GO to B4 .

B2 CHECK WIPER MOTOR GROUND

* Check motor ground at motor connector and mounting screws.

* Is motor ground OK?

Yes
GO to B3.

No
SERVICE wiring at motor connector or tighten mounting screws to improve ground.

B3 CHECK WIPER MOTOR

* Perform wiper motor current draw test in high speed.

* Is current draw OK?

Yes
GO to B4.

No
SERVICE windshield wiper motor as required.

B4 CHECK WINDSHIELD WIPER GOVERNOR

* Set wiper switch in LOW.

* Unplug governor connector. Check for battery voltage at Circuit 993 (BR/W) and ground at Circuit 57 (BK).

* Are both circuits OK?

Yes
GO to B7 .

No
GO to B5 .

B5 CHECK GROUND CIRCUIT

* Check Circuit 57 (BK) for open.

* Is circuit OK?

Yes
GO to B6 .

No
SERVICE for open circuit.

B6 CHECK WIPER SWITCH

* Check Circuit 993 (BR/W) voltage at wiper switch.

* Is voltage present?

Yes
SERVICE for open Circuit 993 between windshield wiper governor and wiper switch.

No
SERVICE wiper switch.

B7 CHECK CIRCUIT 58 (W)

* Reconnect windshield wiper governor to main wiring .

* Unplug wiper motor connector.

* With wiper switch at LOW, check Circuit 58 (W) for battery voltage at the windshield wiper motor .

* Is voltage present?

Yes
CHECK for malfunctioning windshield wiper motor . PERFORM low speed current draw test. SERVICE windshield wiper motor as required.

No
GO to B8.

B8 CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT

* Check for open in Circuit 58 (W) between windshield wiper governor and windshield wiper motor .

* Is circuit OK?

Yes
Replace windshield wiper governor .

No
SERVICE as required.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

the spec is 30-45 psi, -Jared

If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired.
Heater Housing

• The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
• Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.

The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core. Heater Core

• Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
• Remove the heater coolant hoses.
• Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
• Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
• Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
• To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.

When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.

Check tour bulbs first and replace if blown. If OK then check wiring backwards from light to dip switch.

Tis a transfer case issue. Could be shifting fork wear pads worn out which will wear the fork ends to where their bent.

Very likely bad u-joints.

May be the body control module.

Try disconnecting the negative pole of the battery and wait 20 minutes before reconnecting. It should reset the fault code when you reinsert the key.

The lower thermostat housing is a very common failure on the 4.0L SOHC.

Could be your harmonic balancer Rubber is bad.

There are wires for the alarm that are touching each other it could be at the horn or headlights these kind of things happen from wires rubbing the steering column or the alarm module at the mounting or from an accident that previously had taken place and the wire harness was drilled through to fix a dent or the harness was fractured during impact and now high moisture content causes the arcing of the wires so I'm not there and I also have no info on what vehicle this is the make of the truck would help but also before I forget the lighting control module if this is a ford ?you posted in the ford section// both the horn & lights can have the same circuit wire for the alarm please post back with specific info on the vehicle I did the best I could but this was very vague on description all trucks are not the same electrical engineering schematics thanks oh by the way I'm a ford taxi mechanic in N.Y.C.with 50+years of experience in everything and I'm the one who can help you here but we have to narrow down the possibilities here so you need to write down everything you have done and answer these questions ok (1)are you the original owner/for the accident part this is important the wire harnesses go down the inner fenders on certain trucks and cars and also run through the front where the bumper support is and across to the power distribution box on the inner fender a front end collision would damage the harness at the turning point into the engine compartment and also along the ac condenser and along the fenders on both sides so if you don't know because your not the original owner then we must take a rag and wrap it around a magnet so you don't scratch the paint and slide it down the fenders any loss of magnetic pull will indicate that there is body dent filling compound at that spot and also drilled holes to use the dent puller slide hammer and could be the problem from either drilling through the harness by a knucklehead or the now drilled hole on the inside has jagged edges that are cutting through the wires from road vibration also investigate across the front from both bumper brackets on the turns in and to the disribution box (2) is the alarm factory installed? (3)was any work done around the truck inside or out and now the problem started? (4)do you sometimes think you smell a electrical burning smell inside?if so check the steering column wires all the way down and pay close attention to the adjustable points where the column moves up and down once you've done all these we can go further take your time go slow so you don't miss anything and write it down for reference that we both know what you did so far I'm currently doing the same thing on a crown victoria that caught fire because of this exact same thing it started in the fender from an accident and was a previous repair before we got the car so please look closely for your own benefit ok thanks post back with more info stephen

Take it in and get it aligned There could be something worn out that needs replacing.

Where was the clicking noise heard ? in the instrument panel , behind the dash ? Center ,left , right side etc.... possible dimmer module problem . Looking at wiring diagrams . Does the vehicle have auto lamps , daytime running lamps etc.... Do you know what wiring diagrams are ? Free one's here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html enter vehicle info. year , make , model , engine size . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on instrument panel lamps and or head lamps . Check the circuits , find the source of the clicking an you most likely found the problem .

Fluids in an engine are all different colors for a reason. There has to be fluid coming from something. IS the oil the right color? Are you checking the level in the radiator and not the reservoir?

I want to just clarify- are asking about a state saftey inspection, or a vehicle inspection that your insurance company is asking you to have done? if its the insurance cfo- I stand by my 1st answer to you.If its the state inspection you are speaking of-(which I doubt) having a car pass inspection via the state- is not required to obtain car insurance- now you need car insurance to get thru and pass the state inspection, but you can insure any car you want, wether it runs or not- as long as it is registered, and you have insurable interest- (meaning you are the owner)- doesnt matter is the floors are rusted out- you can insure it-