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2003 ford explorer no heat and clicking in dash
Clicking sound is your blend door actuator stripping it's gears and failing to open the door that directs the blower air through the heater core. Follow the sound to the actuator and remove it. Install a new one. You may have to remove some panels to get to it. The part is shown below and costs $32 at autozone. Please let me know if you have questions.
on May 05, 2020
Which fuse on the fuse panel is the one for the
I know thta, for a 2002 Ford Explorer, the 30 amp circuit breaker in location #62 of the power distribution box in the engine compartment is the power window circuit breaker. (unfortunately in the 2002 owner's manuals it is labelled accessory delay ) later years are labelled as the power window circuit breaker.
Hope helped with this. Remember rated this help, good luck.
on Aug 21, 2018
Rear parking sensors
does the version come equiped with rear park sensors????????
Does your vehicle have or could have parking aid ? Yes . Free wiring diagrams here
Enter vehicle info year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on interior & driver Amenity ,then under subsystem click on parking Aid . Click the search button then the blue link. The parking aid module is located behind right rear trim panel
Parking Aid Module
CAUTION: Electronic modules are sensitive to electrical charges. If exposed to these charges, damage may result.
- Remove the RH interior trim. For additional information, refer to Section 501-01 .
Inspection and Verification
- Remove the parts in the order indicated in the following illustration and table.
- Verify the customer concern.
- Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of electrical damage.
Visual Inspection Chart
- Central junction box (CJB) fuse 26 (7.5A)
- Parking aid sensors
- Parking aid disable switch and LED
- Parking aid speaker
- Reversing lamps
- If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.
- If the cause is not visusally evident, connect the diagnostic tool to the data link connector and select the vehicle to be tested from the diagnostic tool menu. If the diagnostic tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
- check that the program card is correctly installed.
- check the connections to the vehicle.
- check the ignition switch position.
- If the diagnostic tool still does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the diagnostic tool operating manual.
- Carry out the diagnostic tool data link test. If the diagnostic tool responds with:
- SCP+, SCP-, UBP or ISP circuit fault; all electronic control units no response/not equipped, refer to Section 418-00 .
- No response/not equipped for parking aid module, Go To Pinpoint Test BC .
- System passed, retrieve and record the continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), erase the continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for the parking aid module.
- If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the Parking Aid Module Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index.
- If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, GO to Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics
on Feb 18, 2018
2003 ford explorer power windows
Found this info in your owners manual. The relays are on the reverse side of interior fuse block. If you don't have an owners manual, fleet.ford.com, has your owners manual. You can read it online for free.
on Feb 17, 2018
Aftermarket speakers stoped working
Can a head phone be plug into the unit and if so - can you hear sound over the head phone. Also first look if nothing is stuck in the head phone jack (where it is plugged in as kids tend to stuff small objects into it). If sound can be heard over the head phones the unit is ok. The problem then lies with in the speaker output circuitry. The speaker output wiring has most of the time a inbuilt fuse that protects the circuitry when the speaker wires are shorted out when power (volume) is on. The unit has to be opened to replace it by a knowledgeable person.
on Nov 28, 2017
All windows not working all of sudden
Believe it or not, the master switch could have failed.
This may or may not work, especially if the master switch receives power first and then provides power to each individual switch. Try each window at each door to see if they respond. If they do, then the problem is very likely at the driver's door switch itself.
Next if the other doors are inactive at their respective switches, remove the driver's switch from the arm rest and take a test light and backprobe the red wire which is usually the main power feed and check for power, If there is power present, then attach your test light's alligator clip to the red wire, then take the point and back probe the black wire to confirm there is ground to the switch. If the test light doesn't light up, then take a jumper wire and attach one end to a reliable ground source, then temporarily backprobe the black wire with the jumper wire, and try the switch.
Now keep in mind that the window switch also has other wires that are bidirectional, which are outputs. They usually are brown and blue.
Can you get your hands on a wiring diagram?
Also if you offer the year, make and model of your vehicle, it would be helpful as it would allow others to give you vehicle specific instructions.
on Nov 24, 2017
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