Fitting timming belt to 95hondadomanivtec 15 valve

The Hyundai Venue has 1 Diesel Engine and 2 Petrol Engine on offer. The Diesel engine is 1493 cc while the Petrol engine is 1197 cc and 998 cc. It is available with the Manual and Automatic transmission.

which engine, options there are many.???
cant fix any engine, until you know what it there.
a civic not Tacoma. as posted.
see end for engines ????

surge 101 (running gasoline?)
it caused by 2 things. (and lots of reasons)
1: engine running lean. all engines lean surge. fix that first.
hint use a scan tool see live data........?????
2: ISC system is faulting, the idle speed controller can fail for #1
or for itself. (it can stick) clean in.


wiki list of engines. (which one???????????????)_
The sixth generation featured engine options were available along with their first Natural Gas Powered Civic, the GX. From 1996-2000 the Civic was sold under the CX, DX, EX, EXR, HX, LX, and for Canada, SE, and Si trims; all base models were made with 1.6L engines. The EX-CX are all SOHC (Honda D engine). The CX, DX, and LX all have D16y7 non-VTEC engines; whereas the EX has a D16y8 VTEC, and the HX has D16y5 VTEC-E. The USDM Si and Canadian SiR came with a DOHC (B16A2 VTEC). The first civic SI coupe EM1 was introduced in 1999 until 2000. Europe saw a DOHC 1.6 VTI hatch and sedan and a DOHC 1.8VTI engine was available for the Domani related five-door liftback and esta
end quote.
I CAN NOT GUESS>!!!

there are 50 causes of misfire. (and flooding)
50
what we do is, conduct simple tests to find what is going on.
but first do that missed , 60,000 mile tune up, it might fix the problem
in FACT , tuneups are 100% designed to what, stop misfire.

my wild guess is it flooding.
are the spark tips (all) soaking in fuel , stalled?

thats one test, and is free, for any show with basic tools.

if you need more help tell engines option and country.
gen 6 car. see quote below and why we dont know what's under your hood (your mech opens hood and goes, ahh, a............)
"
The sixth generation featured updated styling although less radical than previous redesigns. Suspension and engine options were available along with their first Natural Gas Powered Civic, the GX. From 1996-2000 the Civic was sold under the CX, DX, EX, EXR, HX, LX, and for Canada, SE, and Si trims; all base models were made with 1.6L engines. The EX-CX are all SOHC (Honda D engine). The CX, DX, and LX all have D16y7 non-VTEC engines; whereas the EX has a D16y8 VTEC, and the HX has D16y5 VTEC-E. The USDM Si and Canadian SiR came with a DOHC (B16A2 VTEC). The first civic SI coupe EM1 was introduced in 1999 until 2000. Europe saw a DOHC 1.6 VTI hatch and sedan and a DOHC 1.8VTI engine was available for the Domani related five-door liftback and estate..

we need engine displace ment or exact honda type. ID
to answer fully.,
my guess, is the engine leaks oil and you have tried fix it
odd, you did the hard ones first. why not the valve cover
did you know there are 2 ways to find leaks.
1: clean it , all off, then run it and look. see live leak.
best is to do that with out driving as the wind blows it about.
find it , now you know what leaking.
2: use the UV dye kit.
quote wiki, but WHAT ENGINE ?????????????????
all base models were made with 1.6L engines. The EX-CX are all SOHC (Honda D engine). The CX, DX, and LX all have D16y7 non-VTEC engines; whereas the EX has a D16y8 VTEC, and the HX has D16y5 VTEC-E. The USDM Si and Canadian SiR came with a DOHC (B16A2 VTEC).

first tell engine, ! DOHC is quite different.

14-idle air control valve, 15-ignition output signal, 17-vehicle speed sensor,
3-map sensor, 7-throttle position sensor.

1990–95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992–95 Prelude

1. .
2. Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts
   NOTE: There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.
   
3. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
4. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine. To install:
   
5. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
6. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
7. Except Prelude VTEC models:
   1. Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
   2. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). NOTE: Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
      
   3. Tighten the lockbolt installed earlier to lock the timing belt adjuster arm. Remove the crank pulley.
8. On Prelude VTEC models:
   1. Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt. NOTE: Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is 1⁄4 fl. oz. (8 ml).
      
   2. Clamp the mounting flange of the tensioner in a vise using a cloth or blocks of wood to protect it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the maintenance hole. Place the stopper (tool number 14540-P13-003) or an equivalent clamp on the tensioner, then turn the screwdriver clockwise to compress the bottom. Be careful not to damage the threads or the gasket contact surface.
   3. Install the maintenance bolt on the tensioner with a new gasket. Tighten to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
   4. Make sure no oil is leaking from around the maintenance bolt, then install the tensioner on the engine. Make sure the stopper stays in place and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
   5. Remove the stopper. Fig. 11: On VTEC engines, the tensioner must be compressed before installing it on the engine
      Fig. 12: Remove the stopper after installing the tensioner on the engine
      
   
   
9. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
10. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
11. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation
    
    
12. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
13. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures. NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
    
14. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
15. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
16. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990–91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992–95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992–95 Preludes.
17. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following:
    • 1990 Accord: 166 ft. lbs. (230 Nm)
    • 1991–93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
    • 1992–93 Prelude: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
    • 1994–95 Accord and Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)
18. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
19. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
20. Install the upper belt cover.
21. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
22. Install the valve cover.
23. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
24. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
25. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
26. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
27. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
28. Refill the engine coolant.
29. Install the splash shield under the engine.
30. Connect the negative battery cable.
31. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.

Yes this is and interference engine and will be damaged if you were driving when the belt broke more than likely.

hi from uk having lined ip timing marks on cogs? fit c/belt anticlockwise from crank pully cog then making sure that belt ist taut on none tensioner side ? slacken and re tighten tensioner bolt then turn crankshaft anti clockwise sixturns anticlockwise till c/shaft andcam marks re aligne ? now slacken tensioner bolt again and gently turn engine back/anti cockwise three teeth only!on the camshaft cog having done this tighten the tensioner bolt 44Nm final check !turn engine anti clockwisetill timing marks re aligne then if all ok ? re assemble engine hope this helps good luck !

In my opinion it is not worth it. In order to make your d15 a vtec engine, you will have to put a d16 head on it. That will require drilling new oil ports, converting the engine to fuel injection, changing out the computer, and a whole lot more things. You would wind up spending more money doing that than just doing a d16 complete swap. plus the d16 will have more power over all anyway compared to the d15 vtec. d15 is a 1.5L the d16 is 1.6L reguardless your gonna have more power with a d16. Just a suggestion.

If the block says d15b, it is a 1.5 liter, just as powerful as the 1.6 if you bump the timing up a little bit, but these engines are notorious oil burners and the standard transmissions always eat up their input shaft bearing and growl.