No you do not need to remove the motor. You will need to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox (driver side) so you may need to drain the gearbox oil. Passenger side has an intermediate shaft and the drive shaft can be split without removing from the gearbox.
One the shaft is off remove the outer boot and nock the old CV joint off with a hammer and somthing to take the impact without damaging the joint (incase its re-useable). I used the rubber end of a screwdriver on the joint and hit the metal end of the driver with a hammer.
If the CV joint boot you have recieved is not the strechy type you will need to slide it onto the shaft prior to installing the new joint.
To install the new joint can be a chew. There is a circlip seated in a groove on the outer splines of the driveshaft. This clip is slightly larger than the groove it sits in must be "negotiated" into the groove while you slide the new cv joint over (Use a flathead screwdriver to prize the circlip in as you push the new CV joint onto the shaft.) Once you get this right the CV joint will slide down and the circlip will make an audiable click and pop out of the groove on the inside of the joint holding the join in place.
Pack the joint with the grease provided. Slide the boot over and fasten the boot in place with the metal straps and put your car back together.
Beware of new Circlips - my old one was mishapen so I used the new one provided and it was massive in comparison. It took me and a friend a good hour and a half just to get the new CV joint over the circlip - patience is a virtue :D
Incase you can get the shafts out....
Best way is to split the bottom ball joint and suspension wishbone. I'm not a massive fan of this as bottom ball joints have caused me too many issues. I split the tom ball joint and the tracking rod end to give enough movement to get the driveshafts out.
Also never pull on the driveshaft its self as this can pull apart the inner joint inside its boot which is a real faff on to get back together (trust me). Use a screwdriver or small crow bar to prize the shaft out at the gearbox end.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You need to remove the shaft to do a good job (I don't recommend the split boots). Once the shaft is out, I usually just replace the whole thing, as the difference in price between CV joints and shats is small compared to the labor of taking the CV off the axle. To change the shaft, you have to separate the lower ball joint and possibly the tie rod end as well. Remove the axle nut. Then you swing the hub assy away from the trans and pull the axle out of the hub. Next, put a drain pan under the trans in case it leaks a little with the axle out. Pull the axle straight out of the trans and reverse procedure to reinstall.
replace the entire CV axles. Support vehicle with jackstands by frame. Remove front wheels. Remove axle nuts. Remove lower balljoint nut. Separate balljoint from nuckle by banging hard with ball peen hammer on knuckle on spindle assy. Remove outer tie-rod nut. Separate tie-rod from steering nuckle by bangin on nuckle with ball-peen hammer. Use long pry bar to hold lower control arm down while simultaneously pulling hub/spindle assembly away from vehicle and pushing axle through hub toward transaxle. Go under vehicle and pry inner cv joint away from transaxle while holding axle assembly.
Install new CV axle in reverse of the disassembly.
There's no trick to it, this is not in perfect order but it will help... You have to jump in, don't be afraid. Everything is just nuts and bolts. Drain the gear oil out of the trans, disconnect everything in the way, remove starter, all trans bolts, remove outer tie-rod bolt and pop the joint, remove lower control arm bolt on each side and pop the joint, (DON'T HAMMER THE THREADS ON THE BALL JOINTS, SMACK THE THICK METAL ON THE SIDES OF THE KNUCKLE / SPINDLE UNDER THE RUBBER BALL JOINT SEAL AND THE JOINT WILL POP OUT) push suspension up and pop out the axles. Remove motor mounts that connect to your trans. Pull the trans out or pry it carefully, MAKE SURE EVERY BOLT IS OUT. You'll also need to prop the engine up with a jack and something soft like wood or layers of cardboard. The trans will slide out but it's a few inches then it will want to drop so have something under it like a skateboard or a creeper with layers of cardboard to protect both. Don't let it slam down and hit the spline coming out of the engine. Your new clutch kit will have instructions and an alignment tool in the package to complete the clutch install. Then slap it back together. Could take 5 hours your first time, about 2.5 next time.
CV boot and CV joints are different. Boot covers the joint which protects it from debris and other harmful things. if your boots are cracked then just change them. pretty cheep to do yourself. but if you look at the joints and there is dirt on them then you have a problem. i have that same thing and its fine for me unless i turn on the 4W. then you hear a clicking noise. eventually if you keep going like that your car will stop moving. you can look to buy new cv halfshafts. for a good price go to pep boys. best deal i've found anywhere