I`m having trouble getting timing set on my 94 tracker I get tdc and the valves are closed but the cam shaft sprocket is 180degrees out

yes
to get compression the valves have to be closed when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke
If you have the crank out 180 degrees to the cam shaft, then at least one valve will be open on all pistons
The timing marks on the crank sprocket and the cam gear have to close to each other and in line with no 1 piston on tdc

no 1 piston tdc
the cam lobes for no 1 piston should in such a position so that a slight turn of the cam shaft one way makes the exhaust start to close and the inlet start to open or the other way the inlet start to close and the exhaust start to open
this is known as valve rock or valve overlap and occurs when the cam shaft is properly timed to the tdc position of the piston
for a twin cam engine the cam lobes position will be the same operation just that the inlet cam rock will be for the inlet cam and the exhaust cam rock will be for the exhaust cam

Put the Crankshaft to TDC, then roll it back a quarter turn to allow the Camshaft to be rotated into the proper position. Once the camshaft is correct, roll the crankshaft back to TDC and install belt. Having your crank at TDC will not allow your valves to open and close (interference engine).

Nope. You are not removing the timing chain or moving anything related to the timing so it is not necessary to have the engine set to TDC. coincidently I just pulled off a set of heads on a caravan 3.3 liter yesterday at work. I had both off in about an hour and a half. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The 2 cams are linked with a chain at the rear of the cylinder head.

The cams need to be set so the slots on the chain sprockets line up with the cam tower caps with 16 links between cam caps.

You cannot see the front crank pulley tdc mark so you need to lock the engine at tdc with a screwdriver jammed into the timing hole on the bell housing after setting engine at tdc or use a DTI
to check to tdc in the #1 spark plug hole.

If the cams have not been disturbed you only need to set the belt cam sprocket to the mark and crank to tdc.....all this means pulling the core support into the service position so the belt tensioner can be locked down and/or doing a complete belt job along with a coolant pump if over 70,000 miles..

TDC stands for "Top Dead Center". This is where the piston in #1 cylinder is at the very top of it's travel and it has nowhere to go but down. This actually occurs on EVERY revolution of the crankshaft. For engine timing purposes, most repair procedures also expect the valves for #1 cylinder to be completely closed. This happens on every SECOND revolution of the crankshaft. The valves are controlled by the cam shaft. The vehicle manufacturer provides marks on the crankshaft and cam sprockets and on the engine to indicate the crankshaft and camshaft position where this occurs. Please see the picture below.

Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets

some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com

My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.

see diagrams from autozone.com. Cam sprocket has an "UP" label, but also 2 scribes on the sides to align to upper head surface. The critical part of the job is keeping tension on the side of the belt that is opposite from the tensioner as the tensioner is released onto the belt. The timing marks must be aligned when the job is done.


To install:

1. Install the camshaft timing sprocket so that the UP mark is up and the TDC marks are parallel to the cylinder head gasket surface. Install the key and tighten the bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
2. Install the crankshaft sprocket so that the TDC mark aligns with the pointer on the oil pump. Install the spacers with their concave surfaces facing in. Install the key. If equipped, install the TDC sensor assembly back into position before installing the timing belt.
3. Install and tension the timing belt. Use a 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt threaded through the cam belt tensioner plate to temporarily hold the tensioner.
4. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 5-6 turns to be sure the belt is properly seated.
5. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC for its compression stroke.

WARNING If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves.

1. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the camshaft pulley moves only 3 teeth beyond its TDC mark.
2. Loosen, then retighten the temporary cam belt tensioner bolt.
3. If the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly was removed, perform the following:
   1. If the rear balance shaft was moved, rotate the balance shaft until the 6 x 1.0mm x 100 mm bolt can be installed into the maintenance hole to the scribed line.
   2. Align the notch of the balance shaft sprocket edge with the pointer on the gear case. Install the rear balance shaft sprocket/gear case assembly using a new O-ring coated with fresh engine oil. The balance shaft sprocket should be installed in the TDC position. The pointer on the gear should align with the pointer on the oil pump housing plate.
   3. Tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   
   
4. If the front balance shaft sprocket was removed, perform the following:
   1. Install a suitable and sturdy screw driver or drift through the maintenance hole in the shaft behind the sprocket to hold the front balance shaft.
   2. Install the front balance shaft sprocket and mounting nut. Torque the nut to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).
   
   
5. Make sure the balance shafts and crankshaft are in the TDC position.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley, and if removed, install the balance shaft belt drive sprocket.
7. Install the balance shaft belt, making sure the balance shafts and sprockets are still in the TDC position.
8. If removed, install the balance shaft belt tensioner and tension the balance shaft belt.
9. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
10. Remove the 6 x 1.0mm x 100mm rear balance shaft holding bolt.
11. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions counterclockwise, stopping at TDC.

WARNING If any resistance is felt, stop immediately and determine the cause.

1. Recheck that all of the TDC marks align for both the camshaft and balance shafts.
2. Loosen, then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
3. Remove the 6 x 1.0 mm x 25 mm bolt used to secure the camshaft timing belt tensioner.
4. Remove the crankshaft pulley and install the lower cover.
5. Install the crankshaft pulley, lubricate the bolt threads and both sides of the crankshaft pulley bolt with fresh engine oil and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). Do Not use an impact wrench.

See Figures 19 and 20

Fig. Fig. 19: Holding the rear timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey

Fig. Fig. 20: Aligning the front timing balancer shaft-4-cylinder Odyssey

1. Install the upper timing cover and the valve cover. Be sure the seals are properly seated.
2. Install the side engine mount. Tighten the through-bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm). Tighten the mount nut and bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) each.
3. Remove the floor jack.
4. Install and tension the alternator belt.
5. Install the power steering pump and tension its belt.
6. Install the splash shields.
7. Reconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Enter the radio security code.
8. Check engine operation.

Click on the following free, direct Link. It has the Timing + Marks: Belt Diagrams, including for your 1995 Geo Tacker, 1.6L SOHC 4-Cylinder.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1995/make/geo/model/tracker/1995_geo_tracker_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

If you have the harmonic balancer still attached you can align the timing marks with 0 degree to get the main block aligned. With the head removed you can turn the cam shaft till the number 1 valves are both closed and the number 3 exhaust valve is open. Take the time to inspect the valves as well. This vehicle did not come with no contact valves so when the belt broke it is possible the valves made contact with a piston and bent. I highly recommend you get the Haynes Repair manual on this vehicle from the local auto parts store as it has detailed instructions on how to get back to TDC if this happens. It also has Pictures on this. Because this belt goes around 3 timing marks aligning those after you have the pistons at TDC if you align the timing marks on the different sprockets/pullies the timing for teh valves will be correct.