At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
REPLACED ALL SENSORS ON ENGINE. CRANK & CAM SENSOR. EGR VALVE, DISTRIBUTOR, CAP/ROTOR, PLUGS WIRES W/ PLUGS, IDLE AIR CONTROL, ETC. THE CAR RUNS IN PARK BUT AS SOON AS YOU PUT THE CAR IN GEAR AND GET GOING IT DIES. IT WILL RESTART & DO THE SAME. WE CHECK GROUNDS & RELAYS. THE ONLY THING WE HAVENT REPLACE IS THE COMPUTER. BUT IT HASNT SHOWN ANY SIGNS OR SYMTOMS TO NEED REPLACEMENT. WE HAVE COMMUNICATION TO ALL SYSTEMS AND SENSORS.
WHAT IS REALLY GOING ON???
ANY WORDS OF WISDOM OR UNDER STANDING
THANX
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
hi, i would like to advice you check the electronic idle speed control valve and also check engine coolant temp sensor. The ISC (idle speed control valve) is located somewhere below the throttle valve. the engine coolant temp sensor is located near distributor. it has a two wire connection. the sensor connector is usually green
Sounds like you have fuel and spark...check air filter/PCV valve, EGR valve. Distributor cap and rotor, plugs. Make sure your e-brake is disengaged and not locked up. Could be a sensor when engaging the transmission from park to reverse or drive depending on the vehicle.
I'm assuming it's the 2.8, I'm not sure when they started putting the 4.3 V6 in them. Anyway, a few things come to mind when something won't idle.1. EGR valves. If they are open at idle, it won't idle. It's open at cruising speeds when the engine is warm, but not at idle or full throttle. 2. Idle air controller (IAC): This is a little electrical valve located on the side of the throttle body. It regulates the amount of air that the engine needs to idle at the correct speed. It makes up for stuff like cold temps, being in gear, or having the A/C on at idle. They also get full of junk and jam up, or simply fail electrically. Replacement is extremely simple. 3. Ignition timing. If the timing is late (********), engine vacuum is lowered and it struggles to idle, even without the load of a transmission in gear. 4. Vacuum leaks. Crunchy old vacuum hoses make everything worse.
Stip by any good parts store (Autozone, Advance, etc..) and have an OBII scan done - they do this free. It will identify all faults that computer has tracked and will identify what is causing running issues.
there is on the throttle body,a unit called an idle air control valve.it controls the idle speed,and it results in a very low idle or stall if defective.you could have a bad cap rotor or distributor or coil.There is also the crank and cam sensors,but they would set a check engine code if bad.
You should have your TPS and EGR looked at as those cause rough idles...Other causes are bad idle air control valve, bad plugs, bad distributor
cap & rotor, a bad wire, bad O2 sensor, etc...
Hello, your problem appears to be the idle control motor located on the air intake manifold it is a small motor that goes bad quite often. Other items that can cause this is a bad /clogged air filter or a tune up (spark plugs and wires), or clogged fuel injectors. to clean the injectors you can buy a container of fuel system cleaner and pour it into the gas tank and as you drive it cleans the system.
Once the fuel system is cleaned via a tankful of cleaner & gas then the idle controller motor would be next on the list to be replaced.
Has a fuel pressure test been performed?
×