I have a 98 honda accord with a 3.0 vtec engine. when the ignition is turned on,there is a green key dash light that comes on when cranking. sometimes when turning on the ign. key, the light blinks several times and go off or does not come on at all, in either case the motor turns over continuous but will not crank. sometimes i can continue turning the key off and on until the key light comes on and stays, and it cranks and runs fine. can anyone help with this problem?

Check the battery voltage static and when the key is being turned. It should be 12.8 to 13.2 volts.

You have changed everything that is responsible for a 'no spark' issue. Does it have and anti-theft system, and solid red light on the dash?

https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+Honda+Accord.+No+spark

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Check the honda accord engine's electrical control system..

VTEC engines use some oil. A low oil level will cause the engine to go into "stumble mode" and the CEL to come on.

Check the oil level.

Check your owners manual, I think that is a security problem.

Replace the ignition switch that screws onto the back of the lock cylinder, they were a very common problem and actually subject to a recall. You could phone a nearby honda dealership with your VIN number and they may replace it for free.

The ecm receives a signal from the crankshaft position sensor and sends timing signals to the ignition control module, whick fires the coil. The problem can be the crank sensor or the control module. The crank sensor is inside the distributor. I have pasted a test procedure below to help you troubleshoot.
1994-95 ACCORD EXCEPT V-6
See Figures 8 and 9
Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the inner cover.Disconnect the wires from the igniter.Check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter.


Fig. Fig. 8: Terminal identification on engines without VTEC
Check for voltage between the green wire ("BLU 2" on VTEC) and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the ignition coil and the green ("BLU 2" on VTEC) wire between the ignition coil and the igniter.


Fig. Fig. 9: Terminal identification on VTEC engines
Turn the ignition switch OFF .Check the yellow/green wire between the engine control module and the igniter for continuity. Then check the BLU 1 wire between the tachometer and the igniter for continuity.If the wiring is OK and a problem still exists, the igniter is probably at fault.
Vtec engine



Non -vtec engine

You have a bad ignition switch. The electronic portion that turns when you turn your key.

check your starter relay. if the starter passed the test at the shop check to see if you are getting signal to your solenoid on the starter it shoul be the little post when you turn the key to the crank position, check to see if you have power at the big post which comes from your battery, check your grounds. check your fuses see if you have a crank fuse or an ignition fuse.

change the speed sensor relay(located on the gearbox),it worked for me.

Please rate me solved...thanks!
DTC P1259: VTEC SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
1. Perform PCM reset procedure. See SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. Start engine
and run at 3000 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral until radiator fan comes on. Road
test vehicle. Accelerate in 1st gear to an engine speed over 4000 RPM and hold that engine speed for at
least 2 seconds. If DTC P1259 is not indicated during first road test, repeat road test 2 more times. If DTC
P1259 is indicated, go to next step. If DTC P1259 is not indicated, problem is intermittent. System is
okay at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at VTEC solenoid valve connector and PCM.
See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Repair as necessary.
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC pressure switch 2-pin connector. Check for continuity between
VTEC pressure switch terminals. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace
VTEC pressure switch.
3. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and VTEC pressure switch harness connector terminal
No. 2 (Blue/Black wire). If about 12 volts exist, go to next step. If about 12 volts do not exist, check for
an open or short in Blue/Black wire between VTEC pressure switch and PCM 31-pin connector "C"
terminal No. 10. Repair as necessary. If wire is okay, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See
SUBSTITUTING PCM in SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem
goes away, replace original PCM.
4. Measure voltage between VTEC pressure switch harness connector terminals. If battery voltage exists, go
to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open in Brown/Black wire between VTEC pressure
switch and ground connector located on left side of engine, under throttle plate, between end of radiator
hose and cooling fan switch. See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If wire is
okay , substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See SUBSTITUTING PCM in SELFDIAGNOSTICS
- INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem goes away, replace original PCM.
5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC solenoid valve connector. Measure resistance between ground and
VTEC solenoid valve connector. See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If
resistance is 14-30 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is not 14-30 ohms, replace VTEC solenoid valve.
6. Remove VTEC pressure switch and install Pressure Gauge Adaptor (07NAJ-P07010A) and A/T Low
Pressure Gauge (07406-0070300). Reinstall VTEC pressure switch into adaptor. Connect tachometer.
Start engine and with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral until radiator fan comes on. Because
engine is running with no load, oil pressure must be checked within one minute. Check oil pressure at
engine speeds of 1000, 2000 and 3000 RPM. If oil pressure is less than 7 psi (48 kPa), go to next step. If
oil pressure is 7 psi (48 kPa) or more, check VTEC solenoid valve. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT
TESTING article.
7. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC solenoid valve connector. Connect a fused jumper wire between
battery voltage and VTEC solenoid valve connector. Start engine and check oil pressure at 3000 RPM. If
oil pressure is more than 57 psi (393 kPa), go to next step. If oil pressure is 57 psi (393 kPa) or less,
check VTEC solenoid valve. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article.
8. Ensure jumper wire is still connected to VTEC solenoid valve connector. Start engine and allow it to idle.
Set engine speed to more than 4000 RPM and measure voltage between ground and PCM 31-pin
connector "C" terminal No. 10 (Blue/Black wire). See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING
DIAGRAMS article. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, replace
VTEC pressure switch.
9. Turn ignition off and disconnect jumper wire. Check for continuity between VTEC solenoid valve
harness connector and PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12 (Green/Yellow wire). See Fig. 2 . See
ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If continuity exists, go to next step. If
continuity does not exist, repair open in Green/Yellow wire between VTEC solenoid valve connector and
PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12.
10. Check for continuity between ground and VTEC solenoid valve connector. See ENGINE
PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If continuity exists, repair short in Green/Yellow
wire between VTEC solenoid valve connector and PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12. If
continuity does not exist, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See SUBSTITUTING PCM in
SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem goes away, replace original
PCM