Question about Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

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My maytag profile washer doesn't always spin out completely

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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Sorr- this is a bit of a guess as I'm unsure whether you mean that the garments are still wet at the end of the spin.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Washer doesn't always complete the spin cylce

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Three possibilities: (Ranging from least difficult to really messy)

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It's also possible that the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission is broken:


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Ours had a similar problem.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

All of the above sound more difficult than they really are. If you're comfortable with a socket set, pliers/vice grips and

willing to get a bit dirty (oil) you can save some considerable money.

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

  • 159 Answers

SOURCE: Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer: I am having problems with the washer completing a ...

Remove the agatator and clean the filter. hope this helps you.

Posted on May 19, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: maytag performa mod#pav2200aww leaking between rinse and spin cyc

My Performa started leaking from the Drain Pump rubber gasket. It had dryrotted. However, Maytag doesn't make a replacement O-ring gasket. You have to buy the whole new pump! Thanks Maytag.

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

  • 1416 Answers

SOURCE: frididaire washer error 10 Washer will

Hello.

When Washing Machines electronic control has detected a condition then it indicate by showinh error code which needs to check. When you see a code, follow these steps to solve the problem.

However, there are several reasons that a washing machine won't drain or spin. The cause could be something as easy as a clog or something difficult that will need a licensed repairman. Start with the simplest possible cause and work down to the more difficult causes.

Challenging Instructions And Things You'll Need:

· Screwdriver,Flashlight,Voltmeter,Wrenches,Bucket,Rags or mop.

  1. A washing machine won't spin if the water can't drain. Check hoses for any kinks or clogs that may prevent the water from draining. If a hose has kinks, try to straighten out the kinked hose. If it can't be straighten sufficiently, replace the hose. If hoses are not kinked, check for clogged hoses. This can be done by using the screwdrivers to remove the hoses and looking for clogs or running a water hose through the clogged hose to remove the clog. Use the rags and bucket to clean up the water that comes out of the hoses when they are disconnected. Once the clog is cleared, put the drain hose back into place. The washer should drain and spin now if a clogged or kinked hose was the problem.
  2. If the washer still won't drain or spin, check to see if the lid is not closing all the way or if the lid switch is not clicking into place. Close the lid and make sure that it closes all the way down. When the lid closes, the lid switch should click. If there is no clicking sound, then the switch may need to be replaced. Follow manufacturer's directions for replacing the switch. If the lid does not close all the way, visually check for signs that the lid is bent. If bent, try to bend it back into place.
  3. Loose or broken belts could also prevent a washing machine from draining or spinning. Pull the washer away from the wall and, using the screwdrivers and wrenches, remove the back panel. Using the flashlight, visually check for any broken or loose belts. Replace any broken or loose belts. Although replacing washing machine belts is difficult, anyone who has replaced belts on a car , lawn mower or even a bicycle chain should be able to accomplish the task.
  4. Another possibility for a washing machine to not spin or drain is the pump. With the back panel still off the washer, check the pump with the voltmeter to ensure that the pump is getting power. If the washer is getting power, turn on the washer and listen to find out if the pump is running but the water is still not draining. It may be necessary to remove the pump and clean it or to replace the pump with a new one. Once the pump is replaced, turn on the washer to determine if it will now drain and spin.
  5. If all of the above steps fail to produce a washing machine that drains or spins, then it is time to call a professional repairman. Use the screwdrivers and wrenches to replace the panel on the washer and push it back against the wall.

Posted on Aug 02, 2011

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