How to you take the freezer door apart? (Simple question ... is the answer "you can't?"

If the ice maker line broke at the bottom of your GE double door freezer door, and an electrical line also came apart, you may need to access the interior of the freezer door to fix these issues. Here's a general guideline for accessing the interior of the freezer door:
1. Unplug the appliance: Start by disconnecting the power supply to ensure your safety while working on the freezer.
2. Empty the freezer door: Remove any items or shelves attached to the freezer door to clear the area and make it easier to work.
3. Remove the freezer door handle: The handle may be secured with screws or hidden clips. Carefully inspect the handle for any visible screws or fasteners. Unscrew or detach these components to remove the handle.
4. Remove the interior panel: Depending on the specific model, you may need to remove an interior panel to access the inner workings of the freezer door. Look for any screws or clips securing the panel and remove them accordingly. Be cautious not to force or damage any components while doing this.
5. Access the broken lines: Once you have removed the necessary panels, you should be able to access the broken ice maker line and the electrical line that came apart. Inspect the damage and repair or replace the broken lines as needed.
6. Reassemble the freezer door: After the repairs are complete, reattach the interior panel and secure it with screws or clips. Reinstall the freezer door handle using the appropriate screws or fasteners.
7. Test the functionality: Plug the appliance back in and check if the lights on the outside of the freezer door are now functioning and if the ice maker line is repaired. Monitor the appliance to ensure that everything is working correctly.
It's important to note that the specific steps and components may vary depending on the model of your GE double door freezer. It's always recommended to consult the user manual for your specific appliance model, as it will provide detailed instructions and diagrams for disassembling and repairing the freezer door.

Hi,
Has the unit recently been moved or the doors removed at any time? Either the door are not aligned or they are damaged around the hinges some how. I would adjust doors from the top of the unit, assure not product (food) could obstruct the door from closing. Lastly double check closer at the bottom, this is a two piece system and I had seen this come apart recently.
I hope this helps

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

It sounds like the "Duct" adjustment may be set wrong.
There should be "Two" different dials on your unit. One is the actual thermostat, which senses the "refrigerator" temp only. The other is a duct from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator.
If this is the problem, simply turn the (refrigerator knob to a colder setting). Yo May also have the "outlet" for the duct seriously blocked., If so just move your product (in the fridge).
Hope this is it, there a a few other possible solutions, but from your description these are the most probable.

No the only solution is to purchase a new door. I have been a service technitian for many years now. I have tried to take doors apart to repair dents any that were made after the year 2000 are filled with inject foam and are non serviceable

That button just turns the interior light on when you open the door and off when you close it. Could a light bulb be slightly unscrewed? Or perhaps the bulb cover is loose?

We sell all kinds of parts for commercial refrigeration. Both items for this model would most likely be factory stock items and would come directly from True Refrigeration. Feel free to call us if you would like a quote on the parts or if you have other refrigeration questions. 1(800)3199-0690 - Lauren

Right hand side wall in the freezer - take a look- any frozen water or moisture? Need check a drain line, usually defrost heater inside the freezer wall getting bad and draining water just freezing inside of it.

Hi Laura,

The repair guy did what any repair guy would have done under a warranty situation such as yours... door gaskets. I presume he explained why he was doing what did ("why's" are important, ya know...). If he didn't, let me run through it real quick, OK?

Warm air holds moisture and cold air doesn't... that it in a nutshell. But what's important to note is that if there is an air leak inside your freezer you'll notice it just as you have, with condensation forming. This tells the repair guy that cold air is escaping and warm air is entering the freezer. The first place to look is the door gasket and that's why he replaced it. But now you know it wasn't the gasket, right?

So the repair guy didn't find the source of the air leak. It happens. The reason is that most "factory" tech's are trained on the fly and have the habit of not looking too deep into a problem 'cause they're warranty guys. They get paid whether or NOT a problem was fixed. See? Independent repair guys like me only get paid WHEN the job is fixed. So there's a GREAT incentive for me to get it right the first time, right? (I'm not "bashing" them. I'm just clarifying that warranty repairs are hit and miss at best.)

The thing you gotta think about is "How many places are there for cold air to escape and warm air to enter?" The answer to that question is "4". Yep. FOUR places that this can happen and each of them have to be inspected for evidence of moisture. They are;

1.) Behind the fridge where the ice maker water tube is inserted through the cabinet and into the freezer.
2.) Behind the fridge where the wire bundle enters the freezer compartment.
3.) Behind the fridge in the compresser compartment where the evaporator drain comes OUT of the freezer compartment.
4.) The door gasket.

Since your unit is still under warranty I certainly wouldn't expect you to chase these down for yourself. You should call GE again and have the repair guy come do this for you (print this out so you will have the above checklist). This is to protect your warranty, by the way. If you (or an appliance repair company NOT authorized to work on it) work on it, you run the risk of voiding the warranty altogether.

There's a product on the market called "PermaGum" (here's a link). It's used to seal air leaks such as this. When you talk to GE, try to insist that the tech have some on his truck when he arrives... I have the feeling that he'll need it because I suspect a leak is occurring in one of the top 3 areas I mentioned above (either that, or he didn't install the door gasket correctly in the first place).

As an aside? Just a tip/hint... I know that your fridge is new and all, but to KEEP the door gaskets like new for (almost) ever, use Vaseline on them. Yep, Vaseline. Open the fridge door, dab your finger into the Vaseline and smear a light (light) coat of it on the door gaskets all the way around. This will do 2 things;
1.) It'll keep the door gaskets from ever drying out.
2.) It'll provide a very good and air-tight seal when the door is closed. (air leak, Laura?)

There ya go! I hope this has helped you in your quest to rid you freezer of pesky condensation. If so, please remember to rate this as "It fixed my problem", OK? After that, you can mix up a Mojito and bask in the knowledge that you are a completely informed consumer when the GE guy gets there to finally fix your fridge.

Take care,
SG

most of these units have set screws that are tightened with an allen wrench the screw is on the bottom of the handle on eihter end of the handle hope that helps. if this doesnt answer your question if you would post a complete model number off of the unit I could look it up and be sure. thanks Peyton

IF I KNEW YOUR EMAIL I COULD SEND YOU THE PAGE FOR THE FREEZER DOOR. THE TUBING IS INSIDE OF THE FOAM INSULATION AND WOULD BE A BEAR TO REPLACE. THEE BOOKLET FROM THE FACTORY DOES NOT ADDRESS REPLACING THE TUBING ANYWHERE. COULD YOU JUST SPLICE A PIECE ONTO THE REMAINDER OF THE TUBING. GOOD LUCK