Maytag PAV2000AWW top load washer will not drain & spin in 2 of the 3 wash cycles (Regular/Perm. Press & Delicates), but will work in the Presoak wash cycle.
Load size makes no difference.
Problem has gotten progressively worse as we were previously able to manually pull (extra pressure) on selector knob to help engage drain/spin cycles...not working at all anymore in cycles indicated above.
It won't drain
If your washer won't drain, check these:
It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't
pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as
follows:
If the motor
is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump
belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate
the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or
stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace
it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor
isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine
can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing
machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the
top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective,
you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your
washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid
switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch
is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have
to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch.
If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor
coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small,
relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted
to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.
Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be
broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or
badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer.
(Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found
in automotive belts.)
The clutch
may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the
proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from
spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For
this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive
motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation
the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible
for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other.
If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The
transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool®
have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes
even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a
complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a
qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin
bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner
tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually
hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair
technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety,
washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid
switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
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does not Pump or Spin then checkout this tip... not draining and or not spinning does not Pump or Spin then checkout this tip... not draining and or not spinning360 views
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