Can someone help me answer this question, hooking up a new pump to a jacuzzi, there are there 3 wires red, white and black to 115 or 230 volts

you should really get a professional to do that for you so that if anything goes wrong they are liable ..not you for any damages

You should be able to find a wiring here. Search you should have a white, red, black, wire there. hook the white to the neutral or common. then hook the black wire to term # 1 the red wire to term # 3 and then hook the load side to term 2 and 4. it should work doing this. don't forget to hook up the ground. hope this was helpful. contact me if u need more help

First thing to consider is size of Load.
Leviton countdown-timer Load rating is 1800 Watt, 120Volt.
Look inside Jacuzzi at rating plate on motor.
Rating plate on motor should give Volts, Watts and Amps.
Formula Volts x Amps = Watts.
Sometimes motor shows VA which is Watts
Is Jacuzzi on 240Volt breaker or 120V breaker?
Leviton countdown timer is not for 240V load.

A) If 120Volt electric Load checks out, here's how to wire timer if 1 cable enter box.
Timer-black-wire connects to jacuzzi-black
Timer-white-wire connects to ground.
Timer-green connects to ground.
Timer-red connects to jacuzzi-blue.

B) Here's how to wire timer if 2 cables enter box.
120Volt cable coming from breaker box has black, white and bare copper wire.
Timer-black-wire connects to black-wire-from-breaker
Timer-white-wire connects to white-wire-from-breaker-box.
Timer-green and jacuzzi-ground connect to ground

Timer-red-wire connects to jacuzzi-black-wire.

Jacuzzi-blue-wire connects to white.
I am puzzled why this wire is blue if circuit is 120Volt.

I answer questions for free.
I specialize in timers and electrical devices.
My answer might ask for more information, and you can add a comment and we can go further.
The RT1 is a digital countdown timer rated for 120Volt 600 watts.

1) You need to consider the wattage of your jacuzzi circuit.
If circuit operates a motor, then check the nameplate on that motor for wattage.
The RT1 is too lightweight for 756Watt 1HP motor.
The RT1 will not work on a 240Volt circuit.
If the circuit operates lights only, then add up the wattage of your bulbs.

The Pass-Seymour site does not have a manual for the product that describes the intended purpose of the timer. For example some timers say 'incandescent only.'

2) Understand your wiring so we can get a timer that works:
You have a 2 gang box.
The box has a GFCI and no other device.
The GFCI has 4 screws
One cable enters box from breaker box with black and white ... and these wires connect to GFCI
One cable enters box from jacuzzi with black and white ... and these wires connect to GFCI

3) If the circuit is 120V.
Next we are going to talk about the cable going to jacuzzi.
Disconnect black wire going to jacuzzi.
Timer-black connects where this wire was connected.
Timer-red wire connects to black wire going to jacuzzi

The timer-white connects to the same screw that white-wire-going-to-jacuzzi connects to.
So there are two white wires on one screw.

If RT1 is too lightweight
You need a countdown timer rated for the circuit.
Intermatic makes a spring-wound FD series countdown timer that is rated for 2 HP

The Intermatic FD series timers can also be used if jacuzzi is 240Volt
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/in-wall%20timers/decorator%20spring%20wound%20timers.aspx

Add a comment, and I will help with more detailed information how to connect the FD series timers and answer any question about the FD.

You have 4 wires coming out of the fuse box , one white , one bare, one black, one red, right? The fuse is a double pole, 220 volt, ?30?amp, guessing, and you are now wiring up to a 110 volt, motor which needs 20 amps, so, remove one wire from the breaker, red or black, shut it off first, pull the wire off, tape it and mark it what it was. leave the red wire on there, or the black, it doesn't matter, Now you have one hot, one ground, one neutral, hook them up to the pump, the box on the pump has screws, one silver, one brass, the brass is always hot, the colored wires are always hot, The silver screw is neutral, the white is neutral, always, and the ground wire goes to the ground screw, maybe outside of the box. You should be all set, tape off the old colored wire you didn't use and mark it . You might need it someday. Hope this helps.

Measure the resistance between the 3 leads:
Wire 1 to 2, wire 2 to 3, wire 3 to 1.
Find the highest reading. The lead not used in this highest reading is
the yellow lead.
Now use the yellow lead & measure to the other 2 wires.
The higher reading will be the red lead.
The lower reading will be the black lead.

If you are running a 120 volt line then there is no way it could run 240. Did you wire it yourself? A 240 would have a hook up in the box for a red hot wire, a black hot wire, a white neutral, and a green or copper ground wire.

A 120 would have a white neutral , a black hot, and a green or copper ground wire. It wired correctly, you may need to replace the capacitor. But be certain you have cut the power to the circuit off at the panel.

Red wire is not needed. Be certain 208 volts is read across black and white. Cap off the red.

 You have Red and Black HOT wires and a Green Neutral - That is 220 volts. From the wall - Black is Normally HOT and White is Neutral. That is 110 volts. If that is a typical household outlet, is will only supply a demand at about 15 amps while running at 110 volts. Your Cooktop will most likely demand somewhere around 50 amps at 220 volts. - Short Answer - You will need to have a 220 volt supply line ran to the cooktop from the breaker. Easy to do but dangerous if you are unfamiliar with high voltage.