T-103 Black, white and ground what thermals go where

didnt specify to much --generic answer -- sounds like hooking up a heating or cooling unit black and white should be your line voltage use a meter to test your black and white line for 110v if motor is 110v the low voltage lines are control or switch lines that dont go to motor they usually go to a thermostat or transformer

I am not sure if this will help you out any, but here goes:
Line1 & Line 2 are your Hot Power Wires coming into the motor.
It does not really matter which wire goes to which post of the motor.
This will remain true if you are bringing in 110-115-120 (these are all the same, people just refer to them differently) which also is referred to at times as "Low" voltage, and the same goes for 220-230-240 (again, referred to differently) which is referred to at times as "High" voltage.
Whether bringing in Low voltage or High Voltage, the wires you bring in will number only three:

• Ground
• Hot
• Hot (potentially Hot)

Low Voltage (115) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire = Line 1. Normally Black
• 1 Potentially Hot Wire = Common/Nuetral Line 2, normally White
• Ground/Earth = Normally Green

High Voltage (220) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 1, Normally will be same color as Line 2 or Black/Red
• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 2, Normally will be same color as Line 1 or Red/Black
• Ground - Green

In either of the above voltages, it does not matter which wire goes where, as long as a Hot wire goes onto Line 1 and the other "Hot or Potentially Hot, if 110", goes onto Line 2. Do not put a Hot wire anywhere else and Do Not put a Ground wire on either Line 1 or 2!

Most Motors are coming out of the factory wired for High Voltage Set up (220), so you will have to move some wires or a terminal block, to set the motor to operate at "Low" voltage (115). These motors are "Dual" Voltage, they have the capability to run either 110 or 220. But they don't magically know which voltage is being supplied.

Good Luck

I think you checked voltage across the run capacitor, the brown and white wires. The voltage to the motor would be on the black and white wires And inside the motor, a thermal protection device opens the black wire, leaving no potential voltage to the other voltage line nor capacitor line ( brown and white are the same line).
The solution, varify that the motor is wired correctly, then that the capacitor value is correct, not weakened, that the motor vent holes are not blocked or obstructed, that the motor amps are not exceeded, that the motor bearings have no side play and not worn.
Before replacing the motor, make sure the wiring is correct, the motor and capacitor are not good.

Is it going to run on 230V then? If so you would normally use red and black. The white wire should be a neutral and the ground wire is obviously ground.

Do you have a meter you can use to confirm the voltage between the wires? If you do you'll want to start with red and white since you seem to think black was not being used before. If the voltage reads 230 and the motor is set up for 230 then attach one wire to L1 and the other to L2...it will not matter which is connected where as long as one is on each terminal. Insulate the black and ground the ground lead to the motor ground screw.

If the voltage is not 230 between those two check between red and black. If that is the 230 then insulate white and put red and black to L1 and L2.

John

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

I take it your cord is 3-wire plus a ground hence the 4 colors? If so you will only need to use white black and green. On the plug you should see a silver colored screw and a copper one; black to the copper and white to the silver. Green to the green screw and the plug is done.

Connect the white and black wires to the motor L1 and L2 terminals. It does not matter which color wire goes to which line terminal as long as only one wire is on each line terminal.

Ground the green to the green post in the motor and be certain you set the motor to 115 if it is a dual voltage unit that can be switched to either incoming line voltage.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

The T-103 has a 120Volt clock motor

From there, the wiring can go two directions depending on your Load voltage (load is the fan, light or motor that timer turns on-off)

Here is a link that shows exact wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103

When wiring the T-103, steps 1-2-3 are true for 120V or 240V installation:
1) A white Neutral wire is always connected to terminal A (Neutral wire connects to Neutral busbar in breaker box)
2) A black Hot wire is always connected to terminal 1 >> this hot wire can come from 120V or 240V breaker
3) Black wire going to Load (fan, light, motor) is always connected to terminal 2
The following step is true for 120V Load
4) if Load is 120V, then white wire from Load connects to terminal A
The following steps are true for 240V Load
5) Only the neutral wire connects to terminal A as described in (1
6) The second Black hot from breaker box (240V has 2 hot wires) connects to terminal 3
7) The second White going to Load connects to terminal 4

Here are 2 more links that show how 120V and 240V circuits are wired
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

Are you trying to wire a pool pump?
I found manuals at the Haywood site > I saw nothing for K48m2n11b or anything close to that number
http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/products/manuals.cfm

But lets work on the problem and see if I can give you some help:

After opening a few manual and searching for the word 'volt' and 'pump' ... each manual talks about 'pumps' generically, as if the pump is a separate purchase item.

Lower down on the manual page they have a list of pool pumps. A search for the word 'volt' inside the pump manuals says 'match supply voltage to motor nameplate voltage.'

As you know, each electric device has a label showing voltage, wattage, etc. Your pump should show 120Volts or 240V. I didn't see any mention of 3 phase wiring, so I assume your Haywood pump runs on typical residential wiring? And that you are not using 440Volt or 3 phase.

The 120Volt pump will have a black, white and bare ground.
The 240Volt pump will probably have a black, white, red and bare ground
The 240Volt pump could have a black white and bare ground

First the 120V pump:
The 120Volt line from your breaker box will have a black Hot wire, white Neutral wire and bare ground >>> this wire connects color-to-color with pool pump

Next the 240V pump with black, white, red and bare ground
a) The 240Volt line from your breaker box can have the same 4 wires, in which case they connect color-to-color
b) The 240Volt line from your breaker box could have a black white and bare ground, in which case the black goes to black, the white goes to red, the bare coppers are connected, the white pump wire is capped off and not used. If pump does not operate with this wiring, another line from the breaker with wires that match pump might be necessary.

The 240V pump with black white and bare ground
a) The 240Volt line from breaker can have black, white, red and bare ground, in which case the black goes to black, the red goes to white, bare grounds are connected, the white wire is capped off
b) The 240Volt line from from breaker can have black white and bare ground, and this connects color-to-color to the pump

HOW do you know if line from breaker is 120V or 240V?
If you know which breaker wire is connected to, then it's easy
If you do not know which breaker
-turn off power
-separate wires so they can be tested
-use ordinary tester
-stand on dry boards
-tape tester leads to sticks so hands are away from power

-turn on power
-test each wire to bare copper
-tester lights up on Hot wire
-120V line will have 1 Hot wire
-240V line will have 2 Hot wires

You have 220v running into your motor, the red and the plack are in most cases the same 110v line and what your calling a white netural is a common line. In other words the second half of your 220v line. If your red and black are the two opposing 110v lines that make up your 220v and they are put on the motor and turned on they short aginst each other and blow the breaker. One of your 220v lines should come into your hi -low switch and then split to your high and low on the pump. The other half of your 220v line will go to the common or what your calling nuteral. The difference is a netural completes a 110v circut and a common completes the 220v circut it will take to run the motor. One of the splits will complete the low speed circut and the other will complete the high speed circut. You need to check your voltage comming into the spa, the way the spa is wired (110v-220v), and how the motor is wired (110v-220v). For your spa this will be in your owners manuel or on a scematic inside a panel or door and is quite often a plug you change from one spot to another. On your motor will have a scematic on the back of the motor that will tell you haw to adjust the wireing already in place on the wire board of the motor. This may sound deep but if all your voltages are set the same and your high and low are the same leg of power, this should fix your problem.

One to each line. Be sure you set the motor to the same voltage as the line you are connecting. They are 230V out of the box and your wire colors indicate you are likely connecting the pump to a 115V line.

if you have a 220 v service 1 phase meanig there is 220 volts across your existing two power feeds and your motor only has 3 wires there is usually a low voltage and high voltage schematic on the motor if you are wired as per this then your green is standard ground and black and white are your hot wire or line voltage let me know if you have any other questions