LG WM8000HWA 5.1 Cu. Ft. Mega Capacity TurboWash Front Load Washer wit Logo
lotsofsweets16 valadez Posted on May 16, 2016

De2 error code already replaced door switch sensor still getting samecode

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Dave Lammas

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  • Contributor 16 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 11, 2016
Dave Lammas
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Possibly the door seal or the door itself could be misaligned causing the door not to close properly.

  • robert Oct 18, 2016

    DE2 indicates that it is not locking. LG says to unplug unit, wait 10 secs, replug and restart cycle and see if it works.
    i also know that sometimes it is difficult to plug the door switch connector all the way into the switch. make sure it is plugged in all the way.

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Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).

Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.

WHIRLPOOL - most models
Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.

F1 - Analog control board Failure
Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board
F1 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - Oven temperature sensor open
Replace oven temperature probe
F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted
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F3 - Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Clean temperature too hot
Replace oven probe
F5 - Door latch switch fault
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Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:

F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop)
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F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted
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F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot
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F5 - E0 - Check door latch
F5 - E1 - Check door latch
Replace switch if defective

WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:

F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error
Replace ERC
F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error
Replace ERC
F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors
Replace ERC
F1 E4:2 - Model ID error
Reinsert keytail.
F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error
Replace ERC
F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error
Replace keypad assembly
F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged
reinsert the keytail
F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open
Test and replace top probe.
F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe.
F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F5 E0:14 Door switch errot
Test and eventually replace door lock switch
F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating
Test and eventually replace door latch
F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error
Test the cooling module.
PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault.
PF occurs when power is disconnected.

WHIRLPOOL
Models SF3, 30'' and 24"

F2 - Oven temperature above specifications
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F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure
Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary
F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure
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F5 - Push button stuck or faulty
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F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing)
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor)
Replace ERC.
F8 - Electronic control logic error
Replace ERC.
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>>Exception Note:<<
Chart below does not apply to Whirlpool Models using the "Y" line in the products model numbers. Applies to models using 4 digit displays only.

F0-E0 Analog to Digital failure
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F3-E3 Cleaning Temp over heat Replace Sensor
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F5-E1 Door Latch Check Latch
F5-E2 Door Switch Check Switch
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TIP 1: Most error codes that display are related to installation, maintenance, and general use such as washer not being level, not cleaning the debris filter, not cleaning the inlet water supply mesh filters, and using too much detergent.
TIP 2: If your Samsung washer will not start, be sure the Delay Start function has not been activated. When the Delay Start is in use the display will show a number followed by an H (1H, 2H, 3H). The Delay Start icon will be illuminated. (The Delay Start Icon looks like a stopwatch)

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SAMSUNG WASHER ERROR DEFINITION = door switch problem
The dE, dE1, and dE2 errors represent a door switch malfunction.
HOW TO REPAIR/CLEAR ERROR?: Power off the washer. Verify that the door is closed completely. Start another cycle. If the error is displayed again, troubleshoot the door switch or service is required. If the error is not displayed, the door was not closed completely when the first cycle started. (dS error code repair here)

SAMSUNG WASHER FAULT CODES: HE or HE1 or HE2 or Hr
SAMSUNG WASHER ERROR DEFINITION = heater error or temp sensor error
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HOW TO REPAIR/CLEAR ERROR?: When these errors are display, the heater and temp sensors need to be checked or service is required.

SAMSUNG WASHER FAULT CODES: OE or OF
SAMSUNG WASHER ERROR DEFINITION = water overflow
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HOW TO REPAIR/CLEAR ERROR?: Check and troubleshoot the water level sensor, water supply hose, and water supply valve.
SAMSUNG WASHER FAULT CODES: tE1 or tE2 or tE3
SAMSUNG WASHER ERROR DEFINITION = temperature sensors
The tE1, tE2, and tE3 errors represent malfunctioning temperature sensors.
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SAMSUNG WASHER FAULT CODES: NF2 or 4E2 or 4C2
SAMSUNG WASHER ERROR DEFINITION = washer filling with very hot water
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SAMSUNG WASHER FAULT CODES: Eg or E9
SAMSUNG WASHER ERROR DEFINITION = software lock
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HOW TO REPAIR/CLEAR ERROR?: Unplug washer for 1 minute and see if that resets.

SAMSUNG WASHER FAULT CODES: Le or 1E or Ie or lE
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DE2 error code

This is a door error, following the list of diagnostics, check the area around the door to make sure there is nothing preventing it from closing securely. If there is nothing, try unplugging the washer then holding the start/ pause button for 3-5seconds. If that doesn't work listen for when the washer starts, if you hear the door attempt to lock two times when you press start, it probably is a faulty door switch. Simply take off the metal ring around the seal, (there should be a spring on the bottom) then pull back the seal/ gasket where the door connects to reveal the the start switch. From the outside remove the two screws holding it in place, then unplug the the start switch by pressing down the tab holding it to its connection. Now you can try and test the switch by using an ohm meter to see if the connections are good, but it most likely is out if you hear the two clicks. Test points 2 to 4 and the ohm meter should read between 750-1500 ohms, points 3-4 should be 70-90 ohms (though I could never get that reading on old or new switches). If when you replace the old switch with a new one which should cost you between 30-50$ and it still doesn't work, look at the connections in the wire plug and make sure they are ok, and double check the door latch. If none of those seem to be the problem it is mostl likely a problem with your PCB board and there should be a video on YouTube to see how to replace and check that, replacing that will cost you between $100-160.
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