Kitchen Ranges - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Take out the 4 burner knobs, just pull them straight out. Then, you'll see those round holders for the burner knobs, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. They actually screw out, lefty-loosey, righty-tighty. Those 4 things are holding the control panel onto the oven, aka the keypanel. When you unscrew them, you should be able to pop the keypanel right off, depending on how strong the seal is (ours was worn and weak - 8ish years old I think). The problem you described sounds like the ribbon cable is unplugged, or has some gunk on it. A guy on Youtube says you can get the gunk off with a pencil eraser. Then carefully put the ribbon cable back into the slot on the back of the key panel, and put it back on the oven by lining it up and screwing in those black round holders for the burner knobs. You probably need to fix the seal on the keypanel so liquid/food doesn't spill in there; that's our next project (we don't use that range often.) Also, turn off the electricity and gas before you do this. (We flipped a switch at the circuit breaker to turn off electricity, but we didn't turn off the gas.) I'm not an expert, so please read safety tips in the manual before trying this. Good luck!

GE Profile... | Answered Yesterday


DCS Kitchen... | Answered Yesterday

I would definitely have an electrician come out and check your wiring, fuse box, etc.

Kenmore Kitchen... | Answered 2 days ago

Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....

KitchenAid... | Answered 3 days ago

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