Heater set for 103 deg. Why does it make clicking noises and shuts off at 93 deg.?

NEEDS TO GET TO ABOUT 210 deg.for fan to come on and turn off at 230 DEG.,FAN well come on right away with a/c on.fan sensor on thermostat housing or end of cylinder head.

I had a similar issue. It would cut off after approx 30 sec to 1 min. If the power shuts off or screen and lights go off most likely the problem is the thermal cutoff switch comonly called a thermostat. (Be Sure you are getting good air flow also check filter JIC) I found the problem but the parts in the systema are cheap off brand parts. Low quality circuit boards and soldering. The PN on the switch was unknown. Since I didnt know the cutoff temp I called the mfg which did not offer any parts, prints etc. This is an expensive throw away heater is basically the answer I recieved. My unit also had very low use as it is used as a supplimental heat ocassionally. Instead of tossing the unit I looked a little closer at the switch. I found 120 deg C stamped on one of the .25 QC terminals. On the front it is stamped 120/240V 16A. After a search I found the SRL250. It is a 250 deg F 15A 120/240VAC. (120 deg C = 248 deg F). It is 1 amp less which is fine as the 1500W unit should not draw 15 or 16 Amp. I now have the heater running again. You can find this part online or you local appliance parts house should have it. Or Cross ref to another mfg. Hope this helps.
Orig- 120/240VAC 16A 120 deg C (Open on Rise)
New - 120/240VAC 15A 250 deg F (Open on Rise)
Part# - SRL250

i would think the toyota one would be your best option, instead of looking it up online call up the toyota dealer and speak to someone in service, they will be able to give you the accurate settings.

I had the same problem. It would cut off after approx 30 sec to 1 min. If the power shuts off or screen and lights go off most likely the problem is the thermal cutoff switch comonly called a thermostat. (Be Sure you are getting good air flow also check filter JIC) I found the problem but the parts in the systema are cheap off brand parts. Low quality circuit boards and soldering. The PN on the switch was unknown. Since I didnt know the cutoff temp I called the mfg which did not offer any parts, prints etc. This is an expensive throw away heater is basically the answer I recieved. My unit also had very low use as it is used as a supplimental heat ocassionally. Instead of tossing the unit I looked a little closer at the switch. I found 120 deg C stamped on one of the .25 QC terminals. On the front it is stamped 120/240V 16A. After a search I found the SRL250. It is a 250 deg F 15A 120/240VAC. (120 deg C = 248 deg F). It is 1 amp less which is fine as the 1500W unit should not draw 15 or 16 Amp. I now have the heater running again. You can find this part online or you local appliance parts house should have it. Or Cross ref to another mfg. Hope this helps.
Orig- 120/240VAC 16A 120 deg C (Open on Rise)
New - 120/240VAC 15A 250 deg F (Open on Rise)
Part# - SRL250

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

The defrost cycle is usually terminated by a 60 Deg bi-metal thermostat. If the defrost heating element is not heating up the unit will shut off until the internal temp reached 60 Deg F and then restart.

Defrost cycles are 10 - 12 hours apart depending on the defrost control installed so that explains the 12 hr repeat. I really think you have a bad defrost heating element. Here is why I say that...
1. The Defrost cycle is 12 hours after last defrost. (Means the defrost control /board is working)
2. The defrost cycle terminates at 60 Deg F
3. No working defrost element will cause very very long defrost cycles due to the time it takes for the compartment to warm up to 60 deg F and terminate the defrost cycle.

The element is item 33 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5164987&diagram_id=28252332#d28252332

Just looking at the drawing it appears that the Defrost heater and defrost thermostat are an assembly.

You should be able to read resistance end to end on the heater assembly. If you have no resistance it is most likely open / has failed.

The defrost thermostat will read resistance anytime compartment temp is BELOW 60 deg F.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly

4.34

Your temp sensor has gone bad and will need to be replaced. It's a small tube that slides into the water manifold and you can follow the wires back to the board. Just unplug and set a new one in place.

what is the tem at the heater do you have a automatic control what is the temp here may need new temp sensor but dont have all info

I am assuming that this is an electric unit? The heating elements could be bad. I would contact the manufacturer for a service manual for your unit. There you will find instructions on how you might be able to reset the unit if possible. One thing you can try is to shut all power down to the unit and then restart. Also check for any "reset" switches on it as well.

it sounds like the problem may be in the boiler and not the controller itself. Do you kno which is are the two wores that are the r-w for the thermostat take and purt them together and see if the boiler stays on or shuts off like it does with the thermostat. If it does then replace the reciever. If it doesn't then you have another problem. Good Luck