No power after tub installation

Hello Ashley - Regrettably, this is not a simple DIY job. Generally, qualified technicians often perform these complicated part replacements. Usually this type of information is not released to a consumer and very rare to find enough information to do it yourself. If I was in your position, I would personally suggest contacting a professional to accurately assist with the repair or installation of the part.

u must get the inner and outer tub parts, the bearings are actuallly a part of the outer tub assembly,, it is a pain a complete teardown usuallly people just buy a new unit,,, some units had 5yr part warrranties, common bill on a rear bearing install on frontload is usuallyy 600-900 dollars no joke..

This is a not a job for the back yard mechanic. There are many things that need to be done carefully. There are 3 letters missing from your model number also... However the procedure is pretty much the same for all models.

NOTE you will need a special tool to remove the stem seal. Unless you have the special tool in hand don't even bother starting the job. Tell any appliance part center you need the tool for removing an Old style Maytag tub nut and stem seal.

1. Remove the front panel
2. Remove the cabinet top / lid by removing the 2 screws in the top front corner of the cabinet. and rotate the top up 90 deg. Be careful of the lid that will swing freely.
3. Disconnect the pump inlet hose from the bottom of the tub.
4. Disconnect the water injector hose from the tub cover.
5. Remove the tub cover
6. Locate the only hex head screw in the side of the agitator and remove it.
7. Lift out the agitator
8. Using the special tool you should have in hand by now.... Remove the wash tub nut and stainless steel washer under the tub nut.
9. NOTE the distance of the inner tub from the outer tub and then lift out the wash tub
10. Next is the stem seal. You first have to remove the allen head lock screw in one of the 4 faces of the tub nut. Then again using that same special tool remove the upper part of stem seal. Be careful when lifting it as you can actually damage the grease seal in the very top of the tub seal upper portion. Once the metal upper part of the tub stem seal assy is removed... there another NOTE of caution...
11. The actual tub seal has a carbon face on the top of it and if you crack the carbon seal it your machine will leak all of the time there is water in the unit.
grab the tub seal as the very base of the seal and gently rotate and lift it off the inner tub sealing surface.
12. Install the new stem seal.... by again gripping it on the bottom only and gently rotate and push it down into place until it seats level.

Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly but make sure you INSTALL the allen lock screw into the stem seal nut face. If you don't the stem seal will come loose and your unit will leak again. Final note is during re-assembly make sure the wash tub is centered.... rotate the tub once you tighten the tub nut and make sure it is not to elliptical if you don't get it right... the machine will gyrate with use in the spin cycle.

Unit has water in top of inner tub housing. I haven't figure out if they did this on purpose or there is a defect in the sealing between the tub and this large plastic housing. I put 4 holes in the ring inside the tub. It is double layered and both layers need to have been drilled through. The agitator is in the way but it can be done. Suggest that you use a battery pack drill as water comes out of the holes as you drill them. OR you can buy a new inner tub and have someone install it.

Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Removal
REMOVAL
The front wiper motor comes as a unit with a wiper pivot on each end and mounts to a shaft that holds these two inner pivots.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the wiper arms.
3. Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line connector located near the air cleaner housing.
4. Lift the cowl grille and disconnect the washer hose grommet from the hole in the wiper module. Pull the washer hose and the grommet
completely through the wiper module tub hole.
5. Remove the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
6. Remove the four brace nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence.
7. Remove the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner brace holding the tub to the bulkhead.
8. Remove all four inner support brace mounting nuts and pull the inner braces just free of the mounting studs.
NOTE: The wiper tub will drop down slightly.
9. Disconnect the driver and passenger side wiper link ends at the inner pivots.
10. Remove the two left wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
11. Remove the two right wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
12. Partially lift out the wiper motor assembly out of the wiper tub.
13. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector.
14. Remove the wiper motor assembly the rest of the way from the wiper tub and remove from vehicle.
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Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Installation
INSTALLATION
1. Install front wiper motor assembly onto wiper tub.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the front wiper motor assembly.
3. Install the four mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
4. Push the four inner support braces onto the studs and install the four nuts. Tighten the nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
5. Install the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner braces that hold the wiper tub to the bulkhead. Tighten the bolts to 17 Nm (150 in.lbs.).
6. Install the four nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence line. Tighten nuts to 7 Nm (65 in.lbs.).
7. Apply grease to drive link bushings.
NOTE: Make sure to use Mopar(R) approved grease.
8. Attach the driver and passenger side outer wiper linkage to the inner pivots on the front motor assembly and firmly snap into place.
CAUTION: Do not apply too much force to engage link bushing or damage can occur to the drive link bushing.
9. Position the cowl grille in place.
10. Install the washer hose and grommet into the wiper tub.
NOTE: Be sure to properly seat the washer hose grommet into the bottom of the wiper tub.
11. Connect the washer hose at the in-line connector located by the air cleaner housing.
12. Install the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
13. Connect the battery negative cable.
14. Verify that the wiper motor is in the Park position by cycling the wipers system. When done, remove keys from ignition.
15. Install the wiper arms.
16. Align the wiper arms and tighten nuts to 35 Nm (25 ft.lbs.).
17. Install the wiper arm nut caps.

Rear Tub Bearing Replacement



This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most FRONT LOADER models. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud "rumbling" type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won't spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.






DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply.
2. Disconnect washer inlet supply lines and remove drain hose from standpipe.
3. Using a shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain hose to remove all residual water from the drain lines, tub and drain pump. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower panel under the door and locate the drain pump. If the drain pump has a clean out trap, lay out some old towels, and open the trap to allow water to drain. If the pump does not have a drain trap, disconnect one of the drain pump hoses.
4. Remove the lower panel under the door (if you haven't done so in the previous step) and remove the washer top and back panels.
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the top of the wash tub and disconnect the hose on the side of the tub going to the pressure switch.
6. Remove the hose that leads from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump and remove the drain hose that leads to the standpipe.
7. Remove the door bellow (rubber door boot) from the door frame ONLY and push inside the tub. Leave the other end of the door boot attached to the tub shell. If this is a small front loader, the bellow is cemented to the washer door frame. Use a putty knife to slowly peel the rubber from the door facing. If this is a large HE or Duet model, the bellow is held in place by a small hoop spring. It is located in the seam of the bellow along the door frame at the six o'clock position. Pull the spring out and carefully stretch it apart to remove the hoop from the seam. With the hoop removed, the bellow can be pushed inside the wash tub. Remember to remove the bellow from the water inlet tube that leads from the dispenser.
8. Remove the washer support shocks from the wash tub. The large HE model and Duet models are removed by grasping the upper portion of the shock and turning counter-clockwise. The shock will snap loose and can be pushed aside. Leave the lower portion installed in the bottom of the washer. If this is a small front loader, the shocks are held in place by plastic pins. The pins have a locking tab that needs to be compressed while pushing the pin out of the hole. This is NOT any easy task and it will take some effort. HINT: If you use a long socket that fits snugly over the pointed end of the plastic pins, it will compress the locking tab and enable you to use a hammer to carefully tap them free. NOTE: Large HE models and Duets have 4 shocks, while the smaller models may only have 2.
9. Remove the Drive Motor belt by grasping it near the top and pulling towards you while rotating the large pulley. The belt should slip off.
10. Remove the Drive Motor and Motor Control Board. Carefully label all connections, so you know here the go when have to re-install them.
11. Remove the back casing brackets so the entire back of the washer is open.
12. Remove the rear counter weight from the wash tub to minimize some of the weight.
13. This next step may require two persons: With the tub still suspended by the upper support springs, slowly lay the washer all the way on its back while supporting the wash tub. NOTE: Place something under the washer to support the tub shaft as you lay the washer back (i.e., old blankets, cardboard boxes, etc.) Once the washer is lying down, remove the upper support springs and set the cabinet upright. The wash tub should be now free from the washer cabinet.
14. Set the wash tub assembly upright and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the tub shell halves. NOTE: An electric screw driver with socket attachment works wonders and will speed up this process. If the tub is held together with clips, use a screwdriver along the tub edge under each clip and pry up to remove.
15. NOTE: If you plan on reusing the door bellow, use care not to damage any of the rubber. Place some old towels down and lay the wash tub assembly with the front opening face down. Lift the rear shell off the inner wash basket shaft. You can now inspect the spider arm supports of the spin basket. If the supports are cracked or broken, or if the shaft is worn, you will need to replace the spinner basket.
16. Remove the spinner basket assembly and inspect the front tub shell. In most cases the front shell can be reused and will not require replacement. If the inside of the front shell is damaged, however, it will require replacement.




REASSEMBLY:


1. Reassembling the tub shell parts and inner spin basket is self-explanatory. Just make sure you tighten all screws evenly in a crossing pattern as you tighten the tub shells. If the tub is held together with clips, they can be tapped back into place with a hammer. Use the same crossing pattern to ensure the shells are tightened evenly.
2. Lay the assembled tub shell with the opening face up. Make sure you support the spin basket shaft.
3. Lay the washer casing down over top the washer tub shell.
4. Insert the upper shell support springs into the wash tub and support spring brackets.
5. Raise the washer casing to the upright position, making sure the tub does not swing forward into the washer front. Re-install the rear counter-weight and washer back brackets.
6. Re-install the washer support shocks.
7. Re-install the drain line hose.
8. Re-install the Motor Control Unit and Drive Motor.
9. Re-install the Drive Belt pulley and belt. The belt is installed by placing it into the Drive Motor shaft, first. Make sure there is a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the drive shaft. With your left hand hold the belt on the drive pulley and guide it around as you turn the pulley with your right hand in a clockwise direction. This can take some effort.
10. Re-install the hoses that lead from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump, and pressure switch.
11. Re-insert the water inlet tube into the rubber door bellow, ensuring the rubber is seated past the flange on the tube.
12. Pull the door bellow through the door frame opening and reseat it. If this is a small model front loader the door bellow will have to be cemented back in place with appliance door gasket adhesive. If this is a larger model front loader that has a hoop spring to hold the bellow in place, insert as follows:


- Place the hoop into the groove of the door bellow along the facing of the door frame with the spring in the 6 o'clock position.
- With both hands gradually work your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions and stretch the spring apart.
- Push the spring and hoop into the groove.

NOTE: It may require a second person to get the door bellow back in place.

1. Re-install the rubber dispenser hose to the top of the wash tub.
2. Re-install back panel and top panel and hook washer back up to water source. Make sure the drain hose is placed back in the standpipe.
3. Leave the bottom washer panel off and plug unit back in. Test operate and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, re-install bottom panel.


Some other parts that may have to be considered when performing a rear tub shell replacement:
- Rubber Door Bellow
- Spinner Basket (if arm supports are damaged)
- Front Tub Shell (if signs of internal damage)
- Drive Pulley (can sometimes become damaged trying to remove old one)
- Drive Belt (check belt during parts removal for wear)
- Wash Tub Support Shocks (The shocks can sometimes break when trying to remove)

NOTE: 1. If you replace the front tub shell you will need to remove the door bellow and front counter-weights and install them on the new shell. 2. If you replace the spinner basket, some do not come with the wash tub fins. Make sure you remove and re-install the old ones in the new tub if required.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

I broke a hammer removing the basket on a 6000 series today. These are known to be a real ***** to remove. Once those screws are out there is a seal nut to remove and the basket hub assembly is what it sits on. Look at 5 and 7 below.

Dear friend,
ngfam at you service!

The Neptune was discontinued for 98 design defects!!!!!!!!

You can not fix this problem your self!!!

This sounds like it will only fixed by service then you will be happy again!!

Yes sounds like you need service!
Call A&E Factory Service /They service nation wide
And are available 24/7 for making appointments!

If the appliance is 10 years old or more,it may make sense not to invest any money to fix it!
BUY SPEED QUEEN NEXT TIME AND HAVE IT FOR 25 YEARS! THAT'S WHAT I HAVE!
Happy to assist you,
PS. PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF!
Neil

If it is thumping... you have a broken spider on the inner stainless steel drum. Major defect with this machine. You'll need to call to get a new washer tub assembly... comes complete with inner stainless steel drum and outer plastic drum already assembled and ready to install. Good luck.!

you must be fairly competent to have got this far! So! it now needs a bit of brute force. I assume you have removed the drive pulley? Now lay the unit down, 'pulley side uppermost', support the outer tub from the floor with a couple of bricks at either side to give floor clearance to the inner tub, use a piece of hard wood (to protect the shaft end) and give the wood a HARD BLOW with a 4 pound hammer. The shaft is just 'stuck' in the bearings. Dont mess around tapping the shaft end with a small hammer, you will only bruise the shaft end. As they WOULD say around here
'' GIVE IT A GOOD SCUT WITH A 4 POUNDER''