Trips out the mains fuse.

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

You may be pulling too many amps for the circuits in your house, or the breaker could be old and need replacing. There may also be GFCI breakers that trip when there is a sudden rush of current, like a large motor starting.
See if you have GFCI breakers for the outlets you have tested, or the one that keeps tripping.
Check the amperage of the breaker(s) that trip and check the amperage of the machine. If they are close you may be risking overloading the circuit.
If your house is old and the wiring is good (and can easily handle the amps), you may consider changing the breaker to a new one of the SAME RATING. NEVER REPLACE A BREAKER WITH A HIGHER AMP RATING (same with fuses). They are designed to be the weak link, and going up in rating will make the wiring the weak link and is a major hazard.

Try plugging something else into the outlet socket to see if that throws the trip fuse. If it does then the outlet is faulty. Try plugging the washer into another outlet and see if it throws the trip in which case the machine is suspect.

If you are in the UK (I'm not sure if this will apply inthe usa) an electric cooker usually requires a separate circuit back to the mains board. If you are plugging it into a 13 amp socket outlet on a ring main it may be totoo heavy a load.

It is best to disconnect the mains lines from the control panel to the different section, which are the motor, heater, inlet and outlet valve pump. If the fuse trips then the fault is the control panel board and could be a failure of the rectifier or SMPS driver. You might need to replace the board.

if its any plug socket then theres a fault in the wireing somewere, if its just 1 particular plug socket then its a fault an the plug or the wireing to it

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but with such a major fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what is wrong with your washer.

It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB, water inlet control valves, door solenoid as primary suspects. Secondary suspects could be main motor, drain motor.
I fear that you only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.

Sorry again and good luck,
John C

this could be motor / call engineer

Hello,
It sounds like your vacuum is fine if it works when plugged in the kitchen outlet. It is tripping the breaker switch in the other room because the circuit is overloaded (too many things plugged in this circuit). Try unplugging some things in that room and try your vacuum again.
If it only trips when using one particular outlet, then the outlet should be replaced. I would recommend having an electrician check your wiring out.

Hope this helps

You have a dead short either in your breaker box or the plug in. Chances are it is your receptacle.