Question about GE GSH25KGRWW Side by Side Refrigerator

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GE Fridge:GSHF5KGXCCBB Control Panel Fuse

Need the electrical value and determination if it is slow blow fuse. Thanks

Posted by Anonymous on


6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Sea Breeze
  • 4655 Answers

SOURCE: GE side by side refrigerator model GSH25KGREWW

You said that the control board on rear of your refrigerator was replaced and there is still nothing happening? You do need to check the power behind the refrigerator to make sure there is power, yes.When did the control board get replaced and was it new?. Sea Breeze.

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: we have a gsh25jftfww ge fridge. the temperature

Your refrig uses a main control board that is on a recall list .The board uses a WR55X10552 . The replacement board is WR55X10656 . I would suggest calling GE factory service and they will cover this under warrenty , due to the recall .

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

  • 39 Answers

SOURCE: After plugging in the fridge the compresser does

The compressor is controlled by the cold control. This is probably where your problem is. on a GE Profile, this is usually located on the back wall where you change the temperatures for the fridge or freezer. With the refrigerator unplugged, this control can be easily replaced, and you compressor should come back on! Hope this helps!

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4655 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE profile fridge model # PFS22S1SBSS.

I am surprised you were able to do diagnostics without the service manual or do you have one? I think you need to test each thermistor per test point on the motherboard. If the damper door is electric controlled then you must locate the thermistor that appears to be whacking out on you. My manual is about the only copy I have of GE's Artica/Profiles and I see yours appears to be bottom freezer. I think the thermistor is not signaling correctly and may be located near the auto vent. BRB

Posted on Apr 10, 2010

SOURCE: I have GE fridge model#

change fuse. every fuse has a number or two on it, find a fuse with the same numbers

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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I tried a slow-blo fuse and it still pops when plugged into wall.

Have you checked your connections to make sure they are working correctly, fuses are a safety precaution for if too much electricity is flowing so as not to damage anything.

Also make sure your fuse has the correct A value for your appliance, fuses for some appliances blow at alot lower electricity than others.

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The fridge is blowing the 12 volt fuse as soon as I power up the motor home, The fridge is turned off and it still blows the fuse, I tried to undo the 2 wires that go to the 12 volt block on the fridge and...

Unplug the wire located at terminal J4 (12v positive) on the control board, and see if you are still popping fuses. If so, then the fault lies between the wire you just removed and the fuse that keeps blowing.

If the fuse holds, and blows when you plug the wire back onto J4 terminal, then unplug the wire(s) at J2. These go to your door heater (used in humid conditions to remove condensation), as well as the interior light. The switch for the door heater is located on front panel, or is at the top edge of the freezer compartment with door open. It is not unusual for this switch to have issues since it gets chilled and moisture condenses on it. If unplugging the wires at J2 allows the fuse to hold, you probably got a shorted heater or bad heater switch. But, pull the lens off the interior light, and check the contacts there as well.

If the fuse still blows with J2 removed, then unplug the connector in the top left corner of the control board. This goes to the control panel on the inside of the fridge. If the fuse blows, replace the control board. If the fuse holds, the replace the control panel.

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Fuses usually blow for a reason, there is or was a short. I have a tip which may solved your problem at It explains how to check all the components. If only your display is working you know the transformer is ok but your problem addresses a problem that you do not see very often. You may have a bad control panel and that is why the replacement fuse did not blow. Whatever was shorted is now open. If you follow my instructions in the tip and find no problems I would replace the control panel. can supply the parts. Let me know if you need more help.


Thanks for using FixYa and for the generous rating.

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You can try a slow blow fuse, but more than likely there is some other issue in the unit that is drawing too much current. By no means would you want to increase the amperage of the fuse. it could cause a fire.

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