Blown 24v Slow Blow Fuse

Jack,

I just got mine fixed, so can for sure try to help you.

Something on the low voltage side is misbehaving. I can walk you through narrowing it down if necessary, but it's most likely the blower motor.

Here is how you can confirm. Unplug the wiring harness or harnesses at the top of the blower motor. The plastic can be brittle, so be gently. This will remove the blower from the equation. Then, start up the boiler. Did a new fuse blow? If not, it's the blower motor.

If there is a tube attached to the blower intake, remove it. Then stick a screwdriver into the small hole where the air sucks in. Try to rotate the fan. Is it stuck? Does it spin freely? You might be able to free it and get heat for a while, but you will probably need a new blower kit if it's noisy or stuck.

Post back if you need more help.

- Paul

GE is made by Rheem.
Sounds like water heater is short cycling.
Copy following link to troubleshoot by type of gas control valve, including error codes, and instructions how to replace each type of gas control valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
Unforturnately Rheem does not post service manuals, and refers customers to call service technicians... so wonder where these guys get service manual... or maybe they guess at it.
However 2 year old water heater is under warranty. The date of manufacture shows on poduct label serial number. 3rd and 4th digit of serial number are year of manufacture. Parts are covered in second year. Rheem might require plumber to validate single-family residential installation.
In any case other companies post service manuals that cover same gas control valves. These manuals apply to Rheem.
Only difference between Rheem/GE and other brands is type of FV system.
If the air arrestor screen gets clogged (not likely with new heater), the intake air slows down causing vent to slow down. Same amount of gas is still being released and burned, causing combustion chamber to overheat. As a result, the TRD glass vial breaks and air intake trap door springs closed. At this point the gas control valve will usually signal error flashes indicating lockout. Shutdown is usually less problematic to homeowner than allowing too much gas to accumulate inside burner at once, causing risk of explosion. Gas appliance are dangerous without doubt.
Call plumber to check everything might be safest route, especially since low gas pressure is one possible cause of short cycling. And you will be comfortable afterwards knowing who to call and that gas appliance is check out professionally not to have defects that will cause problems down the road.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Don't know what he did but I got someone in to fix today .
Thanks.

Turn on the boiler and jump out the pressure by putting a wire between the 2 electric connections only after the unit fires up than put the jumper on, if it runs ok it is the pressure switch.

a possible solution is to install an air dryer in line with this tube

your expansion vessel is faulty.also check the loops not passing

faulty thermocuple,high limit stat[if fitted]or gasvalve

push in the yellow or grey button on the gas valve and click the piezo ignighter repeatedly keep the gasvalve button depressed for 20 seconds and the boiler should light if it does not you have a fault come back for more advice if this happens

cange the thermocoupler. you con get one at any Lowes or Home Depot

you need to reset it but if it dont light you prob have rectifaction fault