I have a C1000. The plastic tube that goes from the pump up to the heater developed a leak at the connection to the heater. Can I get a new plastic tube with the fittings on it? Its easy to install.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.
Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.
Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.
Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Your heater core has developed a leak - the wetness on the passenger side carpet is engine coolant
from a heater core leak, or a leak in one of the two hoses connected to the back of the heater core.
Your strategy: disassemble dash down to heater core, determine whether you'll need a new heater
core or new hose (or new hose clamp), then replace the offending part.

It's true, nobody has 100% perfect answer for broken stuff.
Open following link for some autocirc resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

If I understand correctly, you removed supply line that connects autocirc pump to the hot water shut off valve.
Buy standard sink supply line at local box store or plumbing supply.
If memory serves, the supply line is 1/2" IP thread that connects to pump and 3/8" Compression fitting that connects to shut off.
You might try using thick-bodied white teflon joint compound to help seal the connection.
I use rectoseal on threaded connections and tubular drain connections to ensure forever seal:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/rectoseal-006-400.jpg

If brass part of pump is cracked, then autocir may be bad.
I have no idea how to permanently fix a broken brass water fitting, and would suggest replacement at that point.

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on plumbing or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Yes there is a filter. Pull up on the fuel line, or the rubber grommet that goes into the tank with the fuel line through it. There were different types of filter used. One is inside a black plastic tube. You can pick it out of the tube with a pick. Another style is located on top of the tank and is of white plastic. Your fuel delivery problem may be air related. The air pump is on the back of the blower motor, and meters a set volume of air to **** the fuel out of the tank and blow it through the nozzle. This air pressure is stated on the data plate on your heater, probably about 3.6 psi. The air filters on the air pump could also be dirty causing the air output to be reduced, and thus low fuel flow. Also check for air leaks at the pump. Spray soapy water on the black plastic cover and look for bubbles, which are of coarse air leaks.

This model uses a composite (some would say plastic) intake manifold, which has been known to develop cracks in the area of the thermostat housing. In addition, the water pump has a pipe to the back of it that emerges in the rear of the intake manifold. Both of these areas peculiar to this motor are known to leak coolant. In its history, many of these plastic manifolds had to be replaced, and there were even techinical bulletins from Ford on them. If you have leak in the tube or pipe that goes under the intake manifold to the back of the water pump, then you will likely want the dealer to fix it, as you may need a new water pump.
Two things then to watch: 1) coolant level and color and 2) any signs of leakage behind the main serpentine belt in the area of the water pump.
Since the serpentine belt is large on the 4.6L motor, and due to its rotation, it is possible that you only have a bad water pump and that the liquid is being thrown by the rotation of the motor. The water pump is not a difficult repair, as it comes off with only a few cap screws. However, if it is detached from the rear inlet pipe (as I mentioned above), it would require that the manifold be removed for it to be reattached. This is not a difficult job, but is very time consuming.

Quite possibly, you can find what you're looking for at an aquarium supply store. They have different types & sizes of tubing.

That sounds like the heater bypass tube. On the end of the tube going into the water pump is an o-ring. Pull out the tube, clean it real good, put a new o-ring on it. Clean the hole well that it goes in. Then I will put a slight amount of silicone around the o-ring. That helps it go back together and fills any imperfections.
Hope this helps you.

Hi!

You Need to check the following--

The fill hoses : These are located behind the washer and are connected to the water mixing valve and faucets. Pin holes and cracks on the hoses may cause them to leak.



The water valve: The water mixing valve is located behind the washer. The fill hoses connect to the water mixing valve. Inside of the valve is that the water gets directed to the filling spout. Water leaks happens when the valve develop pin holes or cracks. Bad fill hoses or water valve could be the reason why the washer is leaking water.


The Filling spout: Is just a directing part, this part directs the water from the water valve to the tank. Pin holes and cracks is what make this part to leak.


The tank : The major cause for the tank to leak is through holes or cracks that the tank develops because of vibration or metal items hitting the tank during the spin cycle.


The tub seal : The tub seal is made of rubber, it is connected between the transmission post and the center of the tank. Leaks developed when the seal gets worn out and it looses the ability to make a good seal between the transmission and the tank. A crack tank or worn out tub seal could be the reason why the washer is leaking water.


The overflow tube : This tube is use to direct the water away from any electrical parts like the motor in case of an overflow cause by a bad water mixing valve or bad water level switch.


The pump : The pump job is to remove the water from the tank to the drain pipe. This pump has an electric motor and an impeller. When the pump motor is turning, any water that falls in to the impeller, is push out to the drain pipe.

Most leaks are cause by a worn out seal between the front pump housing and the rear one.


The drain hose : The drain hose is made of hard plastic and some times it develops pin holes and cracks leaks. Bad pump or drain hose could be the reason why the washer is leaking water.

Thanks for using FixYa and do rate the solution as Fixya if found helpful.

Rylee

Check your plastic water orifice. It is in the hose fitting connected to the outlet tube of the water solenoid. It should be a blue one. Mine was completely eaten through, allowing full water flow, and thus overflowing the distribution tray. I replaced mine yesterday and no more water drips. May as well reflace the filter on the inlet tube of the solenoid at the same time. I used a piece of very stiff, but thin, wire formed into a small hook to remove both old parts. Replacements are readily available from multiple sources on line.

sorry cant help