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unless this is a dedicated freezer only and not a side by side or over/under , there's no way it's going to get down too 0 degrees inside a warm home , nope not gonna happen
also its not good for you to set this there as compressor wont cycle properly there and entire freezer will ice up , then believe it or not it will get warmer not colder wastes a lot of power as well
why yes there is. Generally speaking, the head pressure should be around the "ambient +30" rule.
That is, measure the entering air temp to the condenser, say 75 degrees. Now add 30 to that and get 105 degrees. Look at a P/T chart and see what the pressure is for that temp which is about 253 for R-404-A.
The evap on a freezer leads the load so, as a general rule, the evap temp is going to be around minus 10 degrees to get a 0 degree box. Coolers are different. So, the pressure for a minus 10 evap is around 25 or so. But the unit has to be close to operating temp. If the box is warm, naturally the pressure is higher. And what influences the pressure is whether or not it's a TXV or a cap tube system.
If a TXV and no receiver, charge by subcooling. If a receiver, fill by sight glass. If Cap tube, charge by superheat.
Hope that answers your question.
these freezer are designed to run about 70 percent of the time the temp displayed can vary by +/- 3 degrees..make sure you have fan operation in the freezer and the air flow is not blocked or restricted. also make sure that the door is sealing properly
Hi, The walls are getting hot because that is where the condesor coils are. The condensor coils are where the heat is disperst that is trap as the coolant pumps through the evaporator coils inside. The fact that it is holding 0 degrees is a good sign. Is this freezer in a garage?
Check the door seals to make sure no heat is getting into the freezer other then when the door is opened.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
If this is a self defrosting freeze,then it is normal to periodically see an elevated reading during a defrost cycle. At 20 degrees, it was probably ready to complete its defrost cycle and come back on to return it to your cold setting.
If the temperature fluctuations occur (at least the ones to 20-30 degrees) at intervals of 6 hours or so then you are catching it in it's defrost mode which occurs on a timer. The timer shuts off everything except lights every 6 hours for an average of 20 minutes. This usually isn't enough to thaw things but I have seen it cause some crystale. Look closely at the back inside wall of the freezer for an accumulation of frost. If you see it there then you may have a defrost problem. Usually this is accompanied by steadily rising temperature in the freezer and fresh food secions both. The temps you listed (0to10) are fine. Good luck, AJ
I'll try to give you the "Readers Digest" version.
First, make sure there is no ice build up on the evap. Light frost is O.K. as long as it does not effect air flow. (Very Important). All fans need to be running. Again, an air flow thing. There should be some product in the box but not too close to the evap. Again, an air flow thing.
The expansion device can effect your pressures to some degree i.e. Cap tube vs. TXV.
As a general rule of thumb, which I use almost everyday when it comes to pressures:
Low side is based on the temp difference between evap temp and condition space in the box. In freezers, it is almost always 10 degrees. If the box is 0 degrees then the evap needs to be at a minus 10 degrees. That is a pressure for R-404A of 24.5 psi. This only holds true when the temp in the box is approching set temp. I would say, about +10 degrees. 0 Degrees for the evap for R-404A is 33.5 psi.
High side should be ambient temp +30 degrees and then convert to a pressure for the refrigerant.
Example: 75 degrees in the room, +30 degrees equals 105 degrees. Now 105 degrees converted to a R-404A pressure is 253 psi. This will get you very close to the desired high side pressure.
I would look at low side first to see if it is within reason. Don't let the high side get too high. Increases the compression ratio and overworks the compressor.
Your icing problem could be a defrost issue and not a refrigerant charge issue.
Hi dgh1,
The freezer should stay within 5 degrees of 0 while in operation. While in defrost the freezer may reach as high as 20 to 25 degrees. If any higher temperatures are reached your food will spoil as they are defrosted and refroze everyday. If you find that the temperature is allowing your food to defrost you may want to replace your defrost thermostat. This device is located on top of the evaperator coil inside the back of the freezer. It is made to turn the heater off when a temperature of 55 degrees is reached. One other possible problem could be your defrost timer is taking to long to restart the cooling cycle after defrosting. I hope this will help you and please send any other questions you may have, I am happy to help. and dont forget to rate me.
Mike Anderson
Anderson Appliance
(865)945-3808
not necessarily, is it maintaining temp? all food staying frozen? especially ice creams if stored in there. most newer freezers displace the heat generated while cooling the food through copper lines running through sides of unit, helps to cut down on air temp differences between the inside (0 degrees) and outside temp to prevent moisture and possible condensation causing premature rusting of unit
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