Model FGF326ASD. Gas oven igniter glows but no gas there to light. What controls the gas valve in the oven?

Initors work with oven safety valves and open gas safety valves when the amp draw changes as the ignitor heats up. Ig niters light the flame and then become a thermocouple and send back confirmation of ignition to the central control. The model above uses a glow bar ignitor which is wired in series with the oven control and safety valve. The most common mistake when diagnosing the ignitor is working is you see it glowing. But that does not mean it is strong enough to open the bi-metal inside the gas safety valve which requires a minimum of 3.5 amps to bend the bi-metal so it will release gas to the burner. -PawPaw.

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This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. First you will need to verify that the hot surface igniter is coming on(you should see it glow in the burner compartment). If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that the wiring harness has voltage to it when the oven thermostat is on. Also check the igniter for any cracks or damage and if found then replace the igniter. If it is glowing then one thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on and the igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad. You can also verify that the oven run-away valve is not closed. This valve will be located at the back bottom of the range at the gas regulator. There will be a tab on the regulator housing where the gas pipe goes to the oven. This tab will lift up to close gas flow to the oven. Sometimes these valves can stick causing the oven to stop working. You can try moving this tab back and forth to see if it loosens any debris in the valve. Move the valve while the oven is on and you will be able to hear the burner come on after moving the valve if that was the problem.

This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. First you will need to verify that the hot surface igniter is coming on(you should see it glow in the burner compartment). If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that the wiring harness has voltage to it when the oven thermostat is on. Also check the igniter for any cracks or damage and if found then replace the igniter. If it is glowing then one thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on,igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad.

This is a common problem that happens when the oven gas control valve is sticking. This can be caused by a weak hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. One thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on,igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve stick after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad.

When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven will not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve will not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

1. Defective thermostat
2. Defective selector switch
3. Defective gas safety valve
4. Defective gas valve coils

It sounds like it might be a sticking gas control valve for the oven or the hot surface igniter for the oven might be weak. You will need to turn the oven on and off completely several times until the problem happens. When I say completely I mean turn on the oven control and watch the igniter start to glow. Then when the oven burner comes on(should within a minute) shut of the oven control and wait for the igniter to stop glowing completely and burner to shut off completely. Then repeat the process again. If you try it about 10 times and nothing happens then the problem will be difiicult to identify. If you turn on the oven control and the igniter comes on but the gas burner does not then try giving the gas control valve(located in brolier/storage compartment) a tap with a wrench. If the burner suddenly comes on then the control valve was sticking. Try repeating the shut down/turn on process again. If it does not do it again you may have fixed the problem...if it does you will need to remove the igniter and test it with an ohm meter(should read at least 500 to 800 ohms). If the igniter is testing good and glowing brightly then the gas control valve would be the suspected problem. And remeber to be very careful when doing these testing procedures so you do not hurt yourself.

When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective gas valve coils(This will be the next possible issue if the igniter is functional)

Sounds like a sticking gas valve or a defective hot surface igniter. Open the broiler drawer or remove the bottom cover in the oven compartment. The oven usually has a hot surface igniter or a spark igniter. Turn on the oven and watch for the hot surface igniter to start glowing. It should glow very bright. Once it is glowing the burner gas should come on. If you hear the gas come on it should light right away. If there is any delay shut off the oven and stay back. Let the gas clear out then inspect the area near the igniter and make sure the burner is not plugged(the little holes may have debris in them). If you turn on the oven and the igniter comes,glows brightly,no gas is heard but you can smell gas it is either a blocked burner orfice/assembly or sticking gas control valve. Try giving the burner and gas control valve a tap and see if it comes on. If you tap the control valve and it starts working then shut of the oven and try it several times. If it starts to come on and off now you may have cleared whatever debris was causing the problem. If it does it again then it could be the control valve or a weak hot surface igniter. The igniter can be tested with a ohm meter. Most of the time when I get this complaint it is the oven control valve that is sticking. Be very careful when doing these procedures....gas can build up in the oven compartment very quicky and flash if ignited. Always have the gas shut off valve at the back of the range within reach and the electrical outlet in case you need to unplug it.

The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.