Dryer not working

A fairly common problem! The official instructions are

Before using your dryer, wipe the dryer drum with a damp cloth to
remove dust from storing and shipping.
1. Load clothes loosely into the dryer and close the door. Do not
pack the dryer. Allow space for clothes to tumble freely.
2. Turn the Cycle Control knob to the recommended cycle for the type of load being dried. Use the Energy Preferred Automatic Setting (,) to dry most heavyweight and medium weight loads. See "Drying, Cycle, and Temperature Tips."
3. Select a temperature setting on models with a Temp/Fabric selector. The cycle descriptions include temperature setting suggestions.
4. Push the START button.

Stopping and Restarting
You can stop your dryer any time during a cycle.
To stop your dryer
Open the dryer door or turn the Cycle Control knob to OFE
NOTE: The Cycle Control knob should point to an Off area when
the dryer is not in use.
To restart your dryer
1. Close the door.
2. Select a new cycle and temperature (if desired).
3. Press START

Extracted from
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/511763/Whirlpool-Lte5243dq.html?page=10#manual

If hum is coming from motor and it won't restart until it cools down, it usually means the motor is going bad and overheating. This could also be caused by excessive lint around motor area or blocked vent but usually the motor itself.

Either hang them up wet or put in clothes dryer

solenoids for the spark ignitor at fault

This could be the clothes are coming out of the washer wetter than normal, or poor air flow. 80 min in a little long but a lot depends on the wetness and amount of clothes. If the vent system is clear then I would try smaller loads and checking the washer.
Eric

If your vent hose is more than about ten feet long, your dryer may not have enough pressure to keep the air moving sufficiently to dry the clothes. Is it possible you are simply over loading your dryer?

I ALWAYS START WITH VENTING WHEN CALLED WITH LONG DRYING TIMES BUT I HAVE SEEN WHERE ONLY HALF OF THE HEATING ELEMENT IS WORKING, WHICH IS PRETTY RARE. A NORMAL LOAD WOULD BE WHATEVER THE WASHER HAD IN IT WHICH WOULD BE LOOSLY FILLED TO THE TOP ROW OF HOLES IN THE WASHER TUB. THE ONLY OTHER QUESTION I WOULD ASK IS IF THE WASHER SEEMS TO BE SPINNING OUT PROPERLY AND IF THE CLOTHES ARE GOING INTO THE DRYER TOO WET.

Most common cause of this is a clogged venting going to the outside to test this remove the vent from the back of the dryer and run a load if it drys ok them you know you have a venting issue and will need to be cleaned out if not plz repost and we can look deeper into it

Doing a Load of Wash for Portable/ Kitchen Faucet
1) Make sure machine is set to Cold/Cold and never use Hot/Cold button (Hot/Cold is only for permanent hook-ups). Connect water hose to kitchen faucet. Turn on water to temperature of choice.

2) Load machine half to three-fourths full of clothes. (only half full is recommended if you intend to use the dry cycle right after the wash cycle. For half loads, push in the half-load button. )

3) Add detergent and fabric softener:
a. Liquid detergent into 2nd slot: only 1 tablespoon, 2 tablespoons maximum
b. Fabric softener into 3rd slot. this really helps in preventing wrinkles
(****NOTE: THE MOST COMMON AND MOST DAMAGING ERROR IN THE USE OF FRONT-LOADING MACHINES IS OVERSOAPING. oversoaping causes - pump failure, drain failure, etc. - none of
which are covered by the warranty. The only reason top
loaders use so much soap is because they use so much water and this dilutes the soap. Also, always use detergents that have an HE -- High Efficiency -- rating.)

4) Select Wash Cycle
Permanent Press is likely to be fine (32 minutes) as the USA has softer water than in Europe for which machine was originally designed. Hard water, as in Europe, means it requires more detergent and more washing motion than in the USA. Prewash and/or Superwash (53 minutes) might be preferred for dirtier clothes.

5) Select Spin Cycle
600 should be fine. A higher cycle means dryer clothes, perhaps more wrinkles, and certainly more noise. (Malber USA suggests 800-900 as the norm).

6) Make sure Spin cycle has cold water.
Faucet should be changed to cold water AFTER the initial fill even if you are not drying - all rinses should be in cold water for more complete removal of soap residue

If you use Dry Cycle
7) Select time for desired dry cycle. Make sure to change the faucet to cold water. If you do not want to use Dry cycle, select 0 minutes. Otherwise, use 120 minutes the first time until you can gauge what types of loads require how much drying time. Here's how the Dryer works: A heating element inside the washer heats up the load. During the dry cycle, as the cold water from the faucet circulates into the machine (in tubes, not mixed in with the load), it cools the steam and condenses it into liquid water which is pumped out.

After Wash & Dry
8) It takes approximately 90 seconds after the cycles are completely done before it allows you to open the door. Malber USA says it is due to safety requirement of UL. Who knows what UL security feature is for. Perhaps extra time to finish draining.

9) door slightly ajar to let the machine dry out. I have read postings that say the machine becomes smelly with mildew if you do not. Malber USA says this is true for all horizontal axis (front-loading) washers.


Most common complaints
1) Using too much detergent.
Front loader machines do not need so much water, and thus not so much detergent. Also USA water is softer than European water, for which the machine was originally designed, and that may explain why the detergent compartment is so big to hold more detergent. Soft water is easier to get suds. Damage is caused by suds. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element.

2) Dryer does not work, for several main reasons:
(thanks to Malber USA for points a and b)

a) the system may have overheated, tripping the safety thermal switch. This switch is located under the top of the machine and can be easily fixed by the consumer.

b) broken working thermostat. It is a relatively inexpensive repair to remove and replace this part and takes only about 10 minutes. It can be done by the consumer but it
is recommended that a qualified tech do the job.

c) Machine is too full and/or fabrics are too heavy.
Even though you can wash a maximum load of 11 lbs. of clothes, the manual suggests to dry no more than 7 lbs. of cotton clothes and 5 lbs. of heavy or extra large fabrics. Thats because the dryer works by heating up the clothes and then condensing the steam from the circulating air into liquid water which is pumped out. If the machine is filled too much or if the fabrics are too dense (e.g., jeans), the system cannot condense enough water and the clothes remain humid. Perhaps a second 2 hour dry cycle could work, but who wants to dry clothes for 4 hours.

d) Broken heating element
Seems that the heating element breaks after 2-3 years and needs to be replaced. And why is that? Most common reason for heating element failure is oversoaping. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element. But many people simply choose to not use the dryer rather than have it fixed.
Hope this works. Please be sure to rate me. thanks

I called Whirlpool on 08706008989. The machine can only dry half a load of washing at a time. At the end of the washing cycle, the Programme dial should be at either the sun or half sun symbol. Remove half the washing, set the drying time via the drying time dial and press the 1/2 Load Dryer button - Voila dry clothes!