The oven won't ignite. I have had igniter replaced 4 times...why do we continue to get this proble

The igniter is the most commonly defective part for a gas oven that won't turn on. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.
Kenmore Oven Won Turn on

The igniter is the most commonly defective part for a gas oven that won't turn on. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.

Troubleshooting Why Your Gas Oven Won Ignite or Heat PartSelect com

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


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Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

The oven sensor: works with the oven control board to regulate the oven temperature. If there is an oven temperature problem, this sensor might be defective. The sensor can be tested by using an ohm meter. As temperature rises, the resistance measurement also rises. The manufacturer of the oven sensor determines the correct resistance, Oven temperature problems can be caused by other things, but this is one of the common causes.
Beware on some models now most of these ovens they are electronic and they are integrated into the control itself
some different sensor ohm readings at room temp. approx 16 ohms at room temperature and at 350?F it is 29~33 ohms.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


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https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on- Oven Won Turn on Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


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It sounds like the igniter isn't lighting the flame, or the flame isn't sensing once lit. Check the burner to see if anything has fallen onto the burner or electrodes to prevent it from working. Also check the holes on the burner to see if they are blocked. If it is all clear it may be a control box issue.

Hello there Gary and welcome to FIXYA

Usually when an oven won't bake properly or stops baking , it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself. The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame. I would disconnect the power to the oven then unplug the wiring assy and remove the part then clean all of the terminals really good then reassemble it then try the oven again if it still does not work properly i would go ahead and replace that part ok
Please keep me posted on how this is going i can give you more help but this is the most common problem ok?
Best regards Mike

That sound to me like yall have some carbon buildup on the igniter. On this stove the igniter does 2 jobs. It lights the burner and verifies back to the control that Houston we has ignition. If junk is built up on that ignitor then she won't be sending verification of ignition back to the control. That white residue needs to be removed. NOTE: I don't have your model number I am going by what you describe that this stove is a Direct spark ignition model. If you have a normal ignitor it probably is weak and not drawing 3.5 amps to open the valve. Post a model number (bottom drawer frame)
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Hi.

The igniters are all controlled by a main hub switch located under the cooktop panel.

Replace the sparking igniters module to fix the sticky igniters problem.

Regards.

Ginko.

PULL OUT THE DRAWER AND THAT WILL ALLOW YOU ACCESS TO THE 1/4" SCREWS IN THE LOWER REAR THAT HOLDS THE BURNER IN PLACE ALONG WITH THE FRONT SINGLE 1/4" SCREW. NEED A FLASHLIGHT FOR THIS. THIS FREES UP THE BURNER SO YOU CAN ACCESS THE IGNITER MOUNT SCREWS.