Sounds like you are missing a leg of power to the oven. The power is not correct. This unit needs 220V. You will have to check to make sure the power supply cord is connected correctly to the terminal block of the oven. Where the wires are connected to the oven block, you should have 120V from left to center, 120V from right to center and 220V from the two outer terminals. Right now it sounds like you only have 120V going to the oven. The display board operates with 120V so you will see the display but the elements need 220V to work properly. BE Careful, this is high voltage so call who ever installed it to check that power.
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SOURCE: GE JTP56 Double Oven
Hello there, This may be related to the F7 problem even if you are not getting an error message. Go to my web site at the following link: http://fp1.centurytel.net/Powerman/Dreaded%20F7%20Problem.pdf Please let me know if this works for you. I have sent my fix to over 1300 folks. Good Luck, Powerman
SOURCE: the oven broiler work but the baking part doesent.
hi thanks for the question I would replace the bottom igniter it has failed thanks the appliance doc
SOURCE: Frigidaire double oven has one element not working in each oven
sounds as if perhaps there has been a thermal overload(switch) tha has gone bad, refer to part number 119 on bothe the lower and upper oven for refernce , you should have continuity trough the switches.
ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Lassomption/5995383394.pdf
SOURCE: GE JKP27 F2 error
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck......,
SOURCE: ge profile oven/convection oven humming when on convection settin
ensure that your convection fan is turning
a hum on this model usualy means that the convection motor can seize up a bit
sometimes all you need to do is redjust the fan blade
oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself... Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly72 views
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