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Oven will not unlock after self cleaning
User manual says that the oven must cool off. I am sure this is not the case. Try starting the oven self clean function, and then clear/off to stop the function. Since the oven is cool, perhaps the oven will unlock.
Finally, you could try turning off the circuit breaker and then back on to see if it unlocks - unfortunately you will have to reprogram everything. All else fails, call a technician.
F7 error message on GE oven
Send an e-mail to Charlie at [email protected]
for a fix-it that you can try. He explains a possible solution fully with his 'The Dreaded "F7" Error' solution. I actually found his information on another website when I did a web search for "GE Profile Oven F7 Issue". I sent an e-mail to him and he replied with free fix-it information. I am not a repair person myself, but, his instructions are very clear and simple to follow. I did the fix-it at no cost in approximately 10 minutes and it has solved my problem so far.
My oven is also a JT950 and the builder installed it in our home back in 2000. Our F7 issue started about 2 years ago. For a few months, "clearing" the panel and/or shutting the oven off at the breaker panel would temporarily solve the problem. About 1 1/2 year ago, however, the F7 would come on and continually beep. A repairman looked at the oven and replaced the control panel at a cost of $600 (ugh...). That solved the problem until a month ago when the F7 continuous beeping began again. There was no way I was going to pay another $600. for "temporary" repair and I was thinking of replacing the oven. Luckily, I came across the above-mentioned fix-it information and took a chance by following the simple instructions provided.
F1 keeps flashing and beeping
you can google your oven model for its codes. on our maytag oven the F1 code means defective touch pad or control board.
F3 error code when warming
Hello & Welcome to FixYa
F3 error code indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
I have a GE Profile
Check your breaker box to make sure the breakers are ON.. these typically are double throw breakers.. it is possible one of them has been thrown open.. so flip that double throw off and back on.. then check..I have seen one side of these breakers fail.. unusual.. but it happens.. then a replacement is in order.. regardless. visually it may appear the breaker is closed..but upon closer inspection.. one side may be "spongy/open". There are always exceptions..so examine the breaker box carefully.
If one breaker is open..it would be wise to keep an eye on things to determine how it got that way in the first place. If the breaker will not close or throws/pops again..you either have a bad breaker or a wiring problem..in some cases the element may have grounded out..or burned a wire.. etc.
Next thing to check for is a bad element.. Remember..this is a 220volt hot circuit with a high amperage breaker.. BE CAREFUL.. USE CAUTION.. Failure to do so could result in serious injure or DEATH.
Turn off power at the breaker box to the oven.. test the working over to make sure the power is OFF.
Remove the oven racks
Remove the screws at the base of the element
Pull the element toward you
Note how the wire(s) are connected
Disconnect the wires.. checking for broken or lose terminals..if lose or broken..repair.
You will need a volt ohm meter for the following..
Test the Element for continuity. Place each probe on the terminal ends (manual will have ratings) generally if you have continuity it probably works..
Test for a grounded/short.. one probe to element the other to terminal end..if you have continuity.. it's shorted out. Test both terminals
Replace with a new one if needed.. reverse procedure. Turn on the power .. and test for proper operation.
Again.. 220 VOLTS..HIGH AMPERAGE.. USE CAUTION..not doing so could result in injury or DEATH
After you have done the above..and get an all pass..then it's on to controllers and temp sensors.
Best of luck
While upper oven cooking the door will lock and f9
Thanks for using FixYa. F9 error in your oven/range indicates an issue with the door locks assembly and/or the door latch. To start with check the door lock circuit, you can also try to jump start it to see if it's working. If it's not working then the Electronic Range control has gone bad and should be replaced, if it is working then the door lock circuit should be replaced. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.
I have a GE Profile
i don't think so. the oven's tempt control is ( the clock and it controls both ovens.) there is a sensor in each oven and they tell the clock what is going on it each oven. if both oven are not correct in there tempt you could replace the sensors first and then the clock. now if cost is a factor I would replace the top oven sensor first and see if it corrects the problem . and if so repl the bottom . and if the first sensor does not correct problem then you need the clock.( e o c ..electronic oven control .) this will not be a cheep repair . sensors are 70.20 ea and the clock 201.60 == hope this has helped mm feed back pls . part # of sensor wb23x5340 and clock wb27t10287 //
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