We have ran the oven on pre heat mode from 350-400 it is saying it is pre heating on a timer on 5 mins but it is taking 30-35 mins we have also put 2 thermometers in the oven and they are hardly reading a true temperature
SOURCE: Kenmore Model 278-4298892 Built-in oven won't heat
The oven temp. sensor has gone bad. Replace it and that will solveyour problem. The part # is WB21X5301 and cost is $73.49. Canpurchase at http://www3.sears.com/. You can view the image at http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0124160&brandID=0582&modelDesc=Free%20Standing%2C%20Electric&modelNumber=9114658815&documentID=00053545&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=BODY%20SECTION&titleID=00002&. It is inside the oven in the upper right or left hand corner. Shouldbe able to remove from the inside. Two phillips screws and pull it outharness also. Plug new one into harness and put screws back in and youare done.Also, on the image it is # 253.
SOURCE: Set oven to pre-heat to 350; won't go above 100
could be one of 3 problems: missing 240volts and only have 120volts(one leg out)/bad element(chk for "hot-spot") pitted and discolored-it will soon break there/or the thermocouple is bad that senses oven temp
SOURCE: oven pre heats then beeps with "F 2"
Hello,If this has a controller that runs a microwave and an oven, then the
problem F2 means a temperature related fault such as a bad temp sensor
/ thermostat or a defect in the control board.
If it's just a microwave, then the problem is likely a failing keypad. In many cases, those can be replaced economically.
Thanks
SOURCE: oven will not pre heat
Hello,
Simple to test a bake element or range top burner element.
First, visually see if the element has molten gobs on the tubular-looking element, and/or is cracked. It will be obvious.
And if you do not see anything obvious, you should still test the element with a voltmeter. Many elements are set up so you can unscrew a screw where the element gets attached at the inside rear of the oven, and then pull the element into the stove a couple inches, enough to unhook the wires and then be able to put a voltmeter tester on each end of the element (set to the OHMS setting) to see if the element has continuity.
IF the element is good, then...
...You can also then make sure the wires are not contacting metal(BE SURE OF THIS),... and then plug the stove back in and test the wires to see if you have 220 volts. If not see, which of the two wires has 110. Then if you know which one does not have the 110, then you UNPLUG THE STOVE again and then access the rear of the stove and trace that dead wire from the element plug-in back in the range. You will physically be able to trace that wire.
When working with 220 elements in anything...please realize that usually one leg wire of the 220 volts (in other words, 110 volts) is always 'hot' even though the switch to it is off!! Always remember that!
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