Onkyo txnr636, was listening to vinyl on turntable, front spkrs only, hi volume, quit working. tried to reset,get momentary check sp wire, then unit powers off.

SOURCE: check sp wires?

Your problem most likly is not because of dust. Its a bad connection in the amp section or the protection circuit, or the speakers them self have a problem. There could also be a componet problem. Unless you know how to troubleshoot solid state electronics,you should take the unit in to be serviced. It would most likly cost more then its worth to repair. A unit this old is u replaced at this point. Good Luck

SOURCE: Spkrs quit receiving signals

Hi, assuming you can open the enclosure of the Advent, work on the amp section (please make sure you've isolated the power supply and you will be working with the low voltage section of the circuitry only.) Inject an audio signal, it does not matter where in the amp section, just try the different solder points of the small capacitors normally in the 1uf value. at least one of them should give you a good amplified output from the speakers. In the absence of a signal gen, you may want to try (with care)using your bare finger which should produce a humming sound of about 60HZ or a slight thump in the speaker. If such a sound is produced, then the amp is good and the powersupply is doing its work. You have now isolated the problem to the 900MHz receiver. Am not sure if you can purchase modular replacement in your area but you can also try the sig gen or finger method except for the front end (rf section). Re the humming sound, such a problem is normally related with the power supply section with a defective or leaky capacitor. It is also possible that the input stage of your amp is not grounded right. You actually have just to work on it in stages to simplify fault diagnosis. Since you can hard wire, why not try salvaging parts/module from one unit and putting it in the other to make at least one working while looking for replacement parts/module for the other half of the Advent. Hopes this work out for you. Please let me know how things turn up. Regards

SOURCE: Check SP wires

if you checked wire carefully in high ohm reading and confirm no internal short circuit.-please follow me:-1-disconnect all speakers cables from receiver and check if it is fine-try to connect your speakers one by one until you find the bad one.if it is still shut down you will have a problem inside receiver itself and needs service center to fix.
-it maybe speaker check it also one by one with good known cable.

SOURCE: Zennox USB Turntable

send it back----it's faulty

SOURCE: Onkyo DV-CP704 will not turn on.

I was recently given a DV-CP704 with similar problems. I fixed my problem, well sort of - read on. I did not have a schematic so I decided to start by checking power supply voltages. I noticed a fluctuating voltage on the K0 pin. This is located on a connector on a circuit board under the disk drawer, and the connector services a cable harness coming from the front panel controls. NOTE: before removing or installing connections, I unplugged the player power cord first then plugged it back in. Not knowing where the voltage was originating from I decided to unplug the front panel connector. The voltage on the K0 pin of this circuit board stabalized at +5 volt and was not fluctuating. I traced out where this pin went to the front panel and among other places it went to the power on/off switch and the drawer open/close switch. I restored the front panel connection and while monitoring the voltage on K0 I noted that when I press either the power on/off button or the drawer open/close button this voltage would go low, not to zero but to some lower voltage but when I released the button the voltage would once again fluctuate. While watching the voltage, if I pressed the power on button when the voltage was near +5 volts, the unit would turn on and off. To me it seemed that this voltage should be stable at +5 volts with no button press and should go low only when there was a button press. Next I decided to unplug the harness that went to the drawer open/close circuit board. The voltage on K0 was still fluctuating so I restored this connection. Then I unplugged the harness that went to the power on/off circuit board. AHHHHH, the voltage on K0 was now steady. I removed this small power switch circuit board. Not much to it, some switches, capacitors, LED etc. I did not see any obvious issues with the circuit board. I decided that either the power switch or the small capacitor across the power switch contacts were breaking down causing the K0 voltage to fluctuate. I decide that the power switch was the easiest to remove so I unsoldered and removed it, plugged the board back in. Now I can power on and off by jumpering where the switch was. The K0 voltage is steady and all other buttons work properly. I assumed that the problem was the power switch. I checked the switch with a high impedance Fluke ohmmeter but to my supprise I did not see any problem with the switch. I decided to reinstall the power switch to recreate the problem however now everything is working normally. I can only assume that the heat I applied to the switch during unsoldering somehow fixed the switch by melting or burning away the problem. In my case it was the power switch however all of the tactile switches appear to be the same type so if there is an inherent problem with these switches, soldering or cleaning I would assume it could have been any one of them. If you want to give this a try, remove the cover, remove the 3 screws that secure the front bezel on the bottom of the player. There are two small clips that need to be lifted to release the front bezel so it can be removed from the player and flipped down to gain access to the back while it is still attached electrically. Attach your voltmeter negative lead to the main chassis (ground) and with the positive lead measure the voltage on the power switch pins. One pin is ground so it should read zero or close to it. The other is the K0 signal and it should be at +5 volts until the button is pressed. I don't know about any of the other buttons but they may also operate in a similar fashion. I hope this may help some of you.
Tom Ulrich