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For some reason, the 40amp fuse that is on my amplifier keeps blowing. I've checked the subs, the wires, and all the conections, and have even tried and different CDplayer, and the fuse keeps blowing. I'm not talking about the fuse between the battery and the Amp, I'm talking about the one on the amp itself. and yes, it does require a 40amp fuse. it's a 900Watt amp, and the 2 12" Visonic subs are 800Watts each. it was all working perfectly fine at first, than after about 2-3 months, I started having this problem with the fuse and have burnt another 8 fuses to try and find the problem. please, I need help, I miss that sound, and the feeling :'(
Measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals as well as across remote and ground. If you have less than 11 volts when the amp tries to power up, the amp could be shutting down due to low voltage.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down or blows the fuse when you apply remote voltage (turn the head unit on), the amp likely has blown output transistors.
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If the fuse should blow up; there might be a reason. Shorted component at the power amplifier circuit board of the sub-woofer amp. It will be best to contact any service technician to check the set. Never insert a fuse and switch ON the set, till the fault has been detected and rectified. It might make things worse.
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Check the amp turn-on wire. It's a blue/white wire running from the radio to the amp. It's probably label REM at the amp. This wire sends a switched 12 volts from the radio to the amp. It is probably shorting out somewhere between the radio and the amp.
Generally, if you are using the manufactures fuse rating you can use a slightly higher rating and it will resolve the blowing fuses. Fuses supply resistance, if there isn't enough resistance you'll fry the system board in the amplifier. But if you have 25 amp fuses installed, install 30 amp, if you have 30 install 35 amp, 35 install 40. Anything higher will damage the amp.
Hope this helps.
A rare chance, something may be internally wrong with the amp and shorting it out which will blow the fuse.
Use the incorrect wiring of subs to the amp, you'll blow fuses and damage the amp from it turning off consistently. The amp should be running at 2 ohm stereo stable or 4 ohm mono stable.
Very few amps are designed to run at 1 ohm or less. Not to mention the subs can't handle it.
If you have replaced with the correct rating and the fuse blows off then you will need to check for higher current drain in the sub woofer or the network. After replacing the fuse load up the subwoofer slowly, reduce the bass and as you increase check at the point the fuse blows off. Now we need to analyse if the rating of the amplifier you are using is rated for the subwoofer. If your subwoofer has a higher rating you can increase the rating by about 25% and check again. Some amplifiers give a very higher voltage on full bass which could result in such a condition. Moderate this and check again. If the fuse stays Ok you can continue with this new rating.Otherwise the output of the amp at higher volume needs a confirmation. Hope this helps. Good day
if the fuses are blowing as soon as it comes on the amp is bad, if the amp is actually playing but popping the fuses after a lil bit of playing make sure your subs are wired to the proper impedence for the amplifier if the amp is pulling too much current due to the subs being wired at too low of a ohm rating for the amp.
The reason your blowing fuses is the amp needs at the least a 150 amp fuse on the wire that runs to your bat. There are fuse blocks that you can put 4 40amp fuse and theres the high dollor ones that you can put all the way to 200amp. When you trun up your amp its drawing to much current for the little 40 amp fuse that you have and will blow it everytime. I recomend Running a 4 gage wire to bat and ground with same. Get you a 150 or above amp fuse from a car audio shop somewhere. anyway sounds like from what you decribed, theres nothing wrong with your amp just the wires and fuse are not big enouf to handle the current that your amp pulls.
The most common reason for an amp (in good working order) to blow fuses is a speaker load that's impedance is too low. You may need to rewire your speakers.
good day, check your spkr impedance, if 4oms use a posive spkr dividing network. if stills blows up replace a higher amperage of your fuse. ex.4A raise it up to 5A. the your amps consume higier current if more spkr wattage.
The wire must be able to handle 80 amps of current. You would need 6 gauge or larger for 80 amps. If you have a smaller wire and you use an 80 amp fuse, it will be a fire hazard.
When any amp blows fuses, this indicates that something is drawing too much current. The most common cause are components in the output stage and driver stages that have become defective.
On the amp that is blowing the fuse with the volume being turned up, this means that the output stage is partially working. The short or over-draw of current must be in the output stage, or what is loading it. It is possible in this case that a crossover in a speaker unit is defective, and is drawing too much current. I have seen this with especially sub-woofer crossovers, and the driver itself. Subs pull a lot of current because of the amount of drive power required to have very strong bass sounds. Other than that, this still does not rule out the possibility of the problem being defective components in the amplifier.
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