2009 347THT wiring to microwave is dead. Can't find where wire connects or how to get to it.

See troubleshooting section of following manual. It may help.

Troubleshooting - Galanz ToastWave GTWHG12BKSA10 User Manual [Page 32] ' ManualsLib

If it worked after unplugging and reinserting, it is possible that there is a wiring problem with the plug and wiggling the wires "re-made" a connection. Try plugging in to another outlet to eliminate a dodgy outlet problem.

Kathy, when you say it is dead, I assume you mean that there are no lights or anything when you open the door. If that is the case, you will need to take off the outer shell of the microwave and look for where the cord enters the back of the unit. If you have a black and white wire as well as the green ground wire coming from your power cord, you need to follow the black wire to it's termination. It will stop at either a fuse holder, which will be where you fuse is located, or it will go to a small circuit board and you should find your fuse located on the board. Once you pull the fuse out, you can look on each end of the fuse to find out what size fuse you need to replace it. Let me remind you to also be sure you un-plug the microwave before doing any work on removing the cover. Hope this helps!

There may be a weakened connection around the main power supply 'Transformer'. Sometimes the connections can overheat but if they are removed and replaced it may again make contact. I've had a similar problem and found parts from similar brands to replace the connecting/wiring parts. I soon realized that I could have removed the extra pieces around the wires without causing any electrical problems. That is the minor repair. The major repair would be to replace one of the main features (large or small) which assist the transformer in power functions. Take your time examining the tiniest parts and pieces.

Hello, It could be the fuse or other components. Unplug the microwave oven, remover the front it has two screw on and two on the bottom of the control panel. Once you give the control off unplug the control panel wire that goes the processing board. Now, look around for the fuse.


DANGER.. You'll probably see a round aluminum can with two or more wires on the top of this capacitor. Discharge it will a good screw driver with a plastic handle and also make the screw driver is clean. Take the blade of the screw drive and connect the two post on the capacitor. Leave the screw driver blade connected for a few seconds to full discharge this capacitor.



Don't touch the terminal of this capacitor, it bit you really hard with electric voltage and large amount of current. It could burn you, and if you have a heart condition/or other types. Possibly make you permanently parallel to the horizontal to the plank-dead.





IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER HERE--UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE OVEN!--KEEP AWAY FROM THAT MEGA-TRON TUBE CAPACITOR!!! PLEASE UNDERSTAND THIS TWO WARNINGS!!! GB....stewbiso

http://wiki.brandoncurtis.com/w/File:Microwave_Wiring_Diag this is a good diagram of a standard microwave. ive pretty much only seen on single mag ovens. "F" usually has a single wire from the hvtrans. "FA" is usually the gang off the cap.

I have had the LG model lrm1260sw microwave for 3 years. Recently it quit heating. I found the problem was the soldered grounding lug connection on the power transformer had lost circuit continuity and failed. One of the secondary coils on the power transformer, red wire / bare copper wire, is connected to ground / chassis. I cleaned the lug connection and added a length of wire twisted together with the bare copper coil wire and soldered to the grounding lug. I then grounded the extra added length of wire to another chassis ground point. Make sure the transformer to chassis mounting screws are tight also. Now the microwave oven works like new again.

If you have a multimeter and are comfortable with testing "live" circuits, measure to see if there is voltage from chassis ground, to both ends of the fuse, or to each wire connection on the fuse holder.If no voltage, then the problem is very likely the wall plug does not have power (could be a wire broke inside the wall box.).

If there is power, chances are there is a controller board problem. You should have seen a wiring diagram/schematic when you disassembled to replace the fuse.

You have likely blown the thermal fuse, its a small silver 1/2" pointy wire on each end and secured by clamp and normally brass crimps to the wires.
usually attached around the fan or motor area.
see this picture
http://chinafuse.en.alibaba.com/product/50391300/50098721/thermal_fuse/Thermal_Fuse/showimg.html

Make sure unit is not plugged in. Use a Volt-Ohm Meter, on Ohms setting, and see if you have connection to the fuse holder. Put one meter lead on the BLACK ac wire, test the ac plug with the other lead (both sides) One should read. Do the same with the WHITE ac wire. One should read.If you get readings on both sides then AC Cord is good. Next check the fuse holder for signs of heat or dis-coloration. If found replace fuse holder. Always remember just because a fuse looks good does not mean it is good, and also I have replaced a fuse with a NEW bad fuse. It happens. To be sure test with meter.