When I crank the main frame down onto a board, the rollers touch the board and stop the main frame from descending further, preventing the depth adjustment pin from lifting up. What is wrong?

If the console takes batteries, replace them. If this does not work or your console does not require batteries, check the reed switch or optic sensor. Reed Switch: Unplug the treadmill and remove the motor hood cover. The reed switch is mounted on the frame next to the front roller pulley. There is a magnet glued into the front roller pulley. When adjusting the reed switch, make sure it is pointing directly at the magnet. Move the tip of the reed switch within 1/8" of the magnet. Also, check to see that the wire is not damaged, and is connected to the console.
Optic Sensor: Unplug the treadmill and remove the motor hood cover. The optic disk and sensor are located either at the end of the motor or the right hand side of the front roller. The optic disk spins between two sensors on the optic switch. The disk must spin freely without touching either sensor. The sensors can be moved by loosening the adjustment bolt holding the switch to its bracket. The switch can then be slid. Center the disk.
Finally tight the flexible cable from keypanel vs display board then tight the connector from display board vs main motor controller board. If is possible to measure +5 VDC to display board will be a good idea coming from lower board main motor controller board.Good luck, sincerrely. G-d bless you
ERNESTO CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA

If the console takes batteries, replace them. If this does not work or your console does not require batteries, check the reed switch or optic sensor. Reed Switch: Unplug the treadmill and remove the motor hood cover. The reed switch is mounted on the frame next to the front roller pulley. There is a magnet glued into the front roller pulley. When adjusting the reed switch, make sure it is pointing directly at the magnet. Move the tip of the reed switch within 1/8" of the magnet. Also, check to see that the wire is not damaged, and is connected to the console. Optic Sensor: Unplug the treadmill and remove the motor hood cover. The optic disk and sensor are located either at the end of the motor or the right hand side of the front roller. The optic disk spins between two sensors on the optic switch. The disk must spin freely without touching either sensor. The sensors can be moved by loosening the adjustment bolt holding the switch to its bracket. The switch can then be slid. Center the disk. Finally tight the flexible cable vs display board and tigh the connector from display board vs lower board or main motor controller board. If you can measure +5VDC to display board coming from lower board(main motor controller board).Good luck sincerely. G-d bless you.
ernesto cuadra
managua, nicaragua.

Dear Sir:

Thank you by your request, I will help you inmediately.

1) Unpack the carton. Place Main frame and Running track on a flat level floor.
Attach the post left and right onto the Main frame withthe Screw.

2)Attach the STABILIZER Stand with the post lef and right before mentioned 1) onto the main frame annd tightly secured with Screw/Nut.

3) Raise UP the post Left +Right mentioned Before in the section 1)

4) Inser the Handle Bar left +Right in the front Handle bar, then onto the post Left and Right mentioned into the section 1)

5) Put the computer unit onto the fron Handle Bar with Screw.

6) Raise the Main Frame and Running Track up, attach adjustable Rod with Screw Nut and lik Stabilizer stand tightly secure with screw nut.
Warning: On folding up the running track, do make sure que the pin lock knob are porperly enganged and securely tghten to prevent accident.
To unfold, Pin lock simply loose to pull out Knob and gently lower the Running Track.and Ready.

Thank you in advance, sincerely. God bless you.

If you need further assistance, please contact me

E.CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA. C.A.

Couple of things to check:
1. Are your knives sharp? Dull knives will cut not fast enough to keep up with the rollers.
2. What is the depth of cut? Dewalt's planers cannot plane a board to excessive depths.
3. Are you rollers clean? Dirt, pitch or possibly grease could affect your feed rate.
4. The belt/chain for your rollers engaged or are they slipping? Open up the planer and check for wear or possibly broken belt/chain.
Snipe is usally caused by improper support while exiting the planer. Use outfeed rollers set to the correct height. Also chek that you outfeed bed is aligned with the bed of the planer.
Hope that helps,

it touches the tray according to he size needed so if u want in the second tray can keep the size greater then a4 and chnage the settings so it takes from the second tray .................

My treadmill (American Motion Fitness) squeaks when only when  it warms up. I spray CRC oil onto the front roller bolts which bolt it to the swivel housing and onto the bolts which bolt the swivel housing onto the main frame also onto the rubber bushings which allow the front roller to bounce every time my foot hits the deck. I seem to have to do this 1 per week but it is easy to get at and takes 2 minutes. cheers johnO

M7 (Elevator motor) drive abnormality
• While the elevate tray is going
up, the PWB-F (Elevate tray
top face sensor) is not turned
OFF in the specified period of
time after the M7 is turned
ON.
• While the elevate tray is going
down, the M7 is locked.
• The S2 (Elevate tray upper
limit switch) or the S3 (Elevate
tray lower limit switch) is
turned ON in the specified
period of time after the elevate
tray starts to drive.
The main
body stops
immediately,
and the RL1
(Main) turn
OFF.
M7 (Elevator motor)
PWB-A (Control board)
PWB-F (Elevate tray top face
sensor)
S2 (Elevate tray upper limit switch)
S3 (Elevate tray lower limit switch)
FS-114 F77-2 M11-FN (Elevator motor) drive
failure
• During tray ascending, PC14-
FN (Top face detection sensor)
does not ON after specified
time from M11-FN ON.
• During tray descending, it
does not reach the target
position within specified time.
• During tray descending, M11-
FN is locked.
M11-FN (Elevator motor)
PWB-A FN (Control board)
PC15-FN (Top face detection
sensor)

UNPLUG FINISHER AND SHUT WORK

These devices are friction brakes which are designed for descending ropes. Many belay devices can be used as descenders, but there are descenders that are not practical for belaying, since it is too difficult to feed rope through them. Figure eight Sometimes just called "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender, but may also be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment. It is an aluminium (or occasionally steel) "8" shaped device, but comes in several varieties. Its main advantage is efficient heat dissipation. A square eight, used in rescue applications, is better for rappelling than the traditional 8. Because of the "ears" or "wings" on the rescue 8, there is less chance of forming a girth hitch whilst rappelling very quickly. A figure eight descender Figure eights allow fast but controlled descent on a rope. They are easy to set up and are effective in dissipating the heat caused by friction but have a tendency to put a twist in the rope. Holding the brake hand off to the side twists the rope, whereas holding the brake hand straight down, parallel to the body, allows a controlled descent without twisting the rope. Because of the many bends it puts into the rope, an 8 descender can wear a rope quicker than a tube style belay/rappel device. Many sport climbers also avoid them because of the extra bulk an 8 puts on the rack. However, many ice climbers prefer to use the 8, because it is much easier to thread with stiff or frozen rope. Rescue eight A rescue eight is a variation of a figure eight, with "ears" or "wings" which prevent the rope from "locking up" or creating a girth hitch, thus stranding the rappeller on the rope. Rescue eights are frequently made of steel, rather than aluminium. Rack This consists of a 'U' shaped frame, attached to the belayer's harness, into which snap multiple bars that pivot from the other side of the frame. The rope is woven through as many of the bars as are required to provide sufficient friction. This arrangement allows for variations in rope diameter and condition, as well as controlled rate of descent.

I assume you either have recieved the separation pad or the paperpick roller. Here are instructions on how to replace both.

1. Use the power switch to turn the product off and then unplug the power cord. Figure 1: Unplugging the power cord
2. Open the print-cartridge door, and remove the print cartridge. CAUTION: To prevent damage, do not expose the print cartridge to light. Cover the print cartridge or place it in a black plastic bag, if necessary. Also, do not touch the black-sponge transfer roller inside the product. Touching the transfer roller can damage the product.
3. Locate the pickup roller. Figure 2: Removing the print cartridge, and locating roller
4. Gently release the small, white tabs on each side of the pickup roller by pushing them away from the roller, and then rotate the pickup roller toward the front. CAUTION: Use gentle pressure to release the small white tabs to avoid breaking them. Figure 3: Releasing the tabs
5. Gently pull the pickup roller up and out. Figure 4: Removing pickup roller
6. Perform one of the two following options:
   • Cleaning the pickup roller:
     1. Dampen a lint-free cloth with isopropyl alcohol, and scrub the roller.
     2. Using a dry lint free cloth, wipe the pickup roller to remove loosened dirt. Figure 5: Wiping the pickup roller
   • Removing the new pickup roller from its packaging.
7. Position the cleaned or replacement pickup roller in the slots on the pickup roller frame. NOTE: Circular and rectangular pegs on each side prevent incorrectly positioning the pickup roller. Figure 6: Positioning pickup roller
8. Rotate the top of the pickup roller into position until the white tabs on each side of the roller snap into place. NOTE: Touching the transfer roller can damage the product. Figure 7: Reinstalling the pickup roller
9. Reinstall the print cartridge and close the print-cartridge door.
10. Plug the product in, and then use the power switch to turn on the product. Figure 8: Plugging the power cord in
12. Use the power switch to turn the product off and unplug the power cord. Figure 1: Turning off power and remove power cord
13. At the back of the product, unscrew the two screws that fasten the separation pad and frame to the product. Figure 2: Unscrewing the separation pad
14. Remove the separation pad and frame. Figure 3: Removing the separation pad
15. Perform one of the following two options:
    • To clean the separation pad: Dampen a lint-free cloth with isopropyl alcohol, and scrub the separation pad.
    • To replace the separation pad: Remove the new separation pad from its packaging
16. Insert either the cleaned or replacement separation pad and frame and fasten it to the product with the two screws. Figure 4: Fastening the separation pad
17. Plug the product in, and then use the power switch to turn on the product. Figure 5: Turning the product on

IF you can't get the platen roller out, then what you can do is get a cleaner called " GOO GONE". Take a rag or paper towel, and pour some of the goo gone on the rag where the labels are located. IMPORTANT PART: You want enough Goo Gone on the rag so you can saturate the label. I have even CAREFULLY poured some Goo Gone right from the container onto the label.
Just don't go crazy with the Goo Gone.... You do not want to pour sooooo much onto the platen roller where it drips down it the frame of the machine and possibly onto the main board.
REMEMBER.... Just enough to saturate the label.

After the label is saturated.... WAIT AT LEAST 3 minutes. I usually wait closer to 5 minutes, and then you will notice that the label can be easily pulled away from the platen.
After all of the labels are removed, go over the entire platen with the Rag with Goo gone, and then go over it again with a clean dry rag.

I hope this works for you as well as it has worked for my customers.
Good luck.
Mac =)