It is cold but not quite cold enough

get it back to 50/50 or 60/40 max as any thing less, the motor will freeze up in dead cold
as to your problem if one hose is hot and the other cold , then the problem will be in the heater control tap not turning the heater on properly

please see the response to your other post

That is the dumbest answer I've ever heard from a technician.

The cold control on most boxes controls the freezer temperature. You want the freezer temp to be around zero degrees.

Somewhere (usually in the refrigerator section) there's another control that actually sets a damper, letting some cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator. Higher numbers equal lower temperature. Find that second control knob and turn it up by 1 or 2 numbers, let an hour or so pass and check your refrigerator temp. You want about 40 degrees in the fridge.

THE ONLY THING THAT CONTROLS THE DEFROST CYCLE is the defrost thermostat and the actually defrost control board. along with making sure there is enough freon in the system to switch the unit over and move the reversing valve when it is time... if they have changed the defrost thermostat and you are positive the freon level is good the it appears you may have a bad board on the unit.... be advised the unit should frost up in cold temps and is normally to have frost built up on it then will go into defrost mode. if the unit is freezing over then yes you have a issue.
good luck to you

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

Its best to check when cold since heat makes fluid expand. Always use 50\50 mix.

most refr's dont so well when the ambiant temps fall below 50 degrees. you should not need to adjust the controls must past the "midpoint" usually 4. but 7 is the coldest setting.
the best thing you can do is check what the actual temps are in your garage and if you can warm it up to above 50, then the unit should run properly again.
if the ambiant temps are too cold, the freezer wont be cold enough and the refr section will freeze things.

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Set the freezer temp control to MAX cold and see if it improves.
If not replace the off/on thermostat.(cold control)

First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
So, how can the Ref side be cold and the freezer side not freezing?

1. Coolant leak. There is enough coolant to keep the Ref side cool but not enough to freeze on the freezer side.

2. Defrost system failure. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice and it's just a matter of time when the Ref side won't cool either. The back wall in the freezer will be covered with ice/frost