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Look at the wiring diagram... The manual reset Thermal Limiter Switch (part number 74008715), located on the lower rear insulation retainer can keep both elements from working, not one at a time... I would inspect the back of the bake relay for a burnt/failing solder joint. Swapping the BAKE and BROIL leads is an acceptable test, but if you put the bake leads on the broil and still get no heat: check the control relay. If the broil leads will not heat the bake element, you have a bad element or bad connection. Be sure to do all testing of the elements with at least one wire detached so as not to red a back circuit.
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.
It is common to have the broil element pulse on or they will send 120 volts to the broil element to even the heat in the oven. Some ovens have a preheat function that will power the broil and bake simultaneously until the oven reaches temperature then the broil element will shut down. If they both stay on red continuously through the entire bake process then something is wrong. Probably a stuck contact on the control.
the surge from the original element burning out has destroyed the control board if you can't hear the relays on the board clicking when you power up the elements bake or broil then its either the low voltage side of the board,if you hear clicking then the relays are working but the contacts are burned out and can't pass the current to heat the oven or briol elements
in the oven there are usually two heating elements. one is on the bottom which is the one mostly used and one is inside the oven but on top of the ceiling of the oven compartment. (this is used for broiling food) if you set your oven to broil, check to see if the heating element on the ceiling of oven is red. I almost bet it is. normally the bottom element will go out. these can be changed.
1. Check to see if the both that Bake and Broil elements (burners) are heating up. Check the Broil element in Broil mode.
- during pre-heat the Broil element gets cycled on and off for short time durations to speed up the heating. If the Bake element is not working, then the oven will heat, but very slowly and never reach high temperature.
2. If the elements are both working, then it's possible that you have a bad temperature sensor.
- this is a temperature dependent resistance device that should measure 1080 ohms at 70 deg F (room temp).
3. If #1 and #2 are ok, then the problem is with your oven clock/control unit. We rebuild these at fixyourboard.com.
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
If both broiling and baking element are not heating, then
the most common fault causing the problem is a defective temperature
probe.
The probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line
on the circuit from electroning oven control to baking and broiling
element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.
The
temperature probe is tested reching the probe, cutting or disconnecting
its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a
multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no
continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.
If
the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for
the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements
failing at the same time would be rather unusual.
If only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must be replaced.
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