Power pcb board
First of all it is called a diode and it is an active component. The way you test it is , first remove power from the circuit, then using a ohm meter on the high power ohms or diode test function. It should read high resistance in one direction and low resistance in the other direction you also can use a battery and light bulb in series connected to the diode. The light should light in one direction and not the other. If the diode is across a coil or low resistance device it may not be able to be tested accurately in circuit, in this case one end will need to be lifted from the circuit to test.
If it's a zener type, a voltage source that exceeds its rated avalanch voltage would be required. In addition, a current limiting resistor would be required.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0
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The electronic component that allows electric current to flow only in one direction is called a diode (for small signal currents) and a rectifier for larger electrical currents. The AC home power supply must be rectified (converted from AC to DC) for the electronic equipment to work. A diode (or rectifier) is either 'shorted', 'open' or 'leaks'. Use a multimeter set at X1 Ohms range to test the component on board(without the power) or removed from board. Place the red/black probes on both the terminals (known as Cathode and Anode). The meter needle must move somewhere more than halfway up the meter scale and when the probes are reversed, the needle should not move at all. If it moves up a little then there is a leakage on the diode and must be replaced. Normally a rectifier that has shorted will show signs of burns. It is better to unsolder one leg of the rectifier to get an accurate reading. Take a good new diode or rectifier and try it out with the multimeter...all diodes and rectifiers behave more or less the same way. Good luck.
Samsung 153V LCD Monitor Power Supply Repair Tips
Troubleshooting Samsung 153V LCD power supply is just like troubleshooting those CRT type. This monitor came in with no power symptom. If you are first time repairing this type of power supply, I recommend you to first remove the switch mode power transformer. Then test every single component in the primary section, before you continue to check the secondary section.
You have to be good in testing basic electronic components in order to detect the fault. You can always browse through my website just in case you do not know how to test basic electronic components. If you do not know the right way to check, you might miss out a bad component and this will lead you not able to solve the problem. After carefully checking all the components in the power supply section, I found the filter capacitor do not have any reading using digital capacitance meter (open) , the two round type fuse also open circuit, 1N4744 15 Volt zener diode short circuit and lastly the power IC TOP247F blown!.
Testing the SMPS (switch mode power supply) primary winding with a **** smith fly-back tester, shows green bar which indicates good winding. What we left here were the secondary diode and filter capacitor. Upon checking them with analog meter and ESR meter, found all of them to be good condition. Other area like main board and inverter board also looks okay (Power failure rarely affect these two circuit). Now we have confirmed that only five components found to be faulty.
One by one the components were replaced (except one fuse) and just before you switch on the power supply, make sure you connect a 100 watt light bulb across the live ac line. Once it is done you can then proceed to switch on the LCD monitor to look at the brightness of the bulb.
If it very bright, this suggests that there are still short circuit somewhere in the power section. If it dim or totally goes off, you can now place your red probe to the secondary side to check if any dc present at their respective line. If there are DC voltages present at the output, you can switch off the power, discharge the filter capacitor (for safety purposes), remove the light bulb and connect back the new fuse to its original location.
You are now hundred percent sure that the LCD power supply won
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