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Anonymous Posted on Aug 07, 2014

How do you test a diod in the circuit

Power pcb board

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First of all it is called a diode and it is an active component. The way you test it is , first remove power from the circuit, then using a ohm meter on the high power ohms or diode test function. It should read high resistance in one direction and low resistance in the other direction you also can use a battery and light bulb in series connected to the diode. The light should light in one direction and not the other. If the diode is across a coil or low resistance device it may not be able to be tested accurately in circuit, in this case one end will need to be lifted from the circuit to test.

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If it's a zener type, a voltage source that exceeds its rated avalanch voltage would be required. In addition, a current limiting resistor would be required.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

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Http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/images/diode_meters.jpg

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The electronic component that allows electric current to flow only in one direction is called a diode (for small signal currents) and a rectifier for larger electrical currents. The AC home power supply must be rectified (converted from AC to DC) for the electronic equipment to work. A diode (or rectifier) is either 'shorted', 'open' or 'leaks'. Use a multimeter set at X1 Ohms range to test the component on board(without the power) or removed from board. Place the red/black probes on both the terminals (known as Cathode and Anode). The meter needle must move somewhere more than halfway up the meter scale and when the probes are reversed, the needle should not move at all. If it moves up a little then there is a leakage on the diode and must be replaced. Normally a rectifier that has shorted will show signs of burns. It is better to unsolder one leg of the rectifier to get an accurate reading. Take a good new diode or rectifier and try it out with the multimeter...all diodes and rectifiers behave more or less the same way. Good luck.

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2answers

Robinair 600 pro, incorrect tank level indication

diode mode is only for diodes or transistors.
not caps,
normal ohms is best and caps readd open (after they charge)
i'd say sensor error is first. not PCB
we test caps only with a real CAP ESR meter,
for capacitance and leakage and ESR, 3 tests. using real tools
electrolytic caps do leak that is their nature, no not boric acid leaks.
but resistivity leakage, do to the electrolyte inside.
10,000 ohms is common.leakage (no not diode mode ever)
other caps read open sure. ceramic, and all others.
caps are used for filtering, coupling or for tuning. audio or RF circuits.
each has job to do and only a real schematic shows that job clearly.
find the tank level sensor and test it.
not told you C84 , words, uF is what.
if measures zero ohms, (not diode) mode it is bad. 10,000 ohms
do not measures electrolytic caps backwards, or it damage them.
red lead to PLUS sign or on Elect. caps black meter lead to NEG mark on side if cap yes. connected this way.
a needle ohm meter will even snow it charge up. (at great learning tool)
tip

How to troubleshoot a power supply board.

After a power surge or thunder storm your TV, DVD, Amplifier or anything with a power supply will not turn on or partially turns on with errors. Your unit may also be many years old and has quit while operating or after shutdown it would not turn on.

If this is the circumstances of your unit you need to first unplug the unit from the mains for safety and remove the cover(s) or back if a TV to access the power supply board.

You will no doubt need to do some sodering so see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r9091711-step_step_procedures_soldering for help with soldering.
.
The first thing you should check is the fuse although with switch mode power supplies you do not find blown fuses very often these days. Using a DMM set to the ohms range (preferably continuity check) check for an open fuse. If there is continuity the fuse is good. If the meter reads a high resistance the fuse is open and needs replaced. Always replace with the exact kind and size (amps) of fuse you take out. Generally these days the fuse rating is marked on the circuit board near the fuse.

Restore power to the unit and try turning it on. If your replacement fuse blows you have a short somewhere in the system. Any boards which will not affect the unit turning on should be disconnected and the fuse replaced and try to power it on again. If the fuse does not blow the problem is in one of the circuit boards which are not hooked up to the power supply. If the fuse blows the problem is in any boards still connected or the power supply.

To troubleshoot the power supply look for any charred or burned components. Look at the electrolytic capacitors to see if the ends are bulging. If they are all the electrolytics should be replaced. Electrolytic capacitors look like small cans, usually different colors but they could be black. They will be marked in microfarads and have a dc voltage rating. They should only be replaced with exact units, same values for both parts of the rating. Also they have a polarity and must be installed the same way they are taken out. The negative terminal is marked on the board and on the device.

If all the capacitors look ok or you replace them all (they are cheap) continue checking all diodes for shorts or opens. Out of the circuit a diode should read high resistance one way and when the leads are reversed you should read about 400 to 800 ohms. This is showing a good part. The DMM should have a diode check setting. It is the location with the symble of a diode beside the position. Diodes can usually be checked in circuit to determine a ball park estimate of whether they have a problem. Remove any which seem suspect and check them out of circuit. Make sure they are reinstalled correctly. They have a polarity also. Line the symble on the device up with the one on the circuit board.

After the electrolytic capacitors and diodes all the transistors (mainly power) should be checked for shorts. If they are shorted you will find them in circuit. Any suspicious units can be removed and tested with a DMM. Testing is done similar to a diode except there are two junctions to test. You should have low resistance between two different sets of leads and high resistance between all others (out of circuit only).

The only things left to check are the resistors. The easiest way to test them is with the meter on diode check make sure they are not in a dead short. Some will be low enough resistance they should test as a short.
They should be marked with the values. Resistors with a high resistance can be tested by changing the range or use auto range.

Any parts can be purchased at http://www.encompass.com or http://www.mcmelectronicsinc.com or http://www.mouser.com .

If all the components check out your power supply is ok and you need to do the troubleshooting on the remaining boards.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko
on May 10, 2011 • Televison & Video
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Where can I get a PCB board for a KitchenAid KCO222OB toaster oven?

I was able to replace parts on the circuit board (P/N: 128301_timer_pcb) to fix this issue on my KCO253CU Kitchenaid Toaster Oven. R1 was visibly burned. On further troubleshooting, ZD2 was found to be shorted.
Known Failed Parts Replaced:
R1: 47 Ohm 2 Watt resistor
ZD2: 47V Zener Diode
Other Parts Replaced
C1: 1.5 uF 400 Volt Film Capacitor
ZD1: 5.1 V Zener Diode, tested OK but replaced anyway.
See attached photo of circuit board for component part numbers.
John W.
oven-mn5yeavntvoigkhsjsshxc4z-3-0.jpeg

oven_new_parts-mn5yeavntvoigkhsjsshxc4z-3-1.jpeg
0helpful
2answers

Fuses keep blowing for my flat screen tv

Short circuited component/s at its main power regulator board. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" will make surf easy.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
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Hello!Sony SDM-HS73 power-inverter problem

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http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Sony%20SDM-HS73/
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1answer

Bosch 18v driver/drill charger won't charge

THRE ARE MANY POSIBILITIES.HERE THEY ARE:
1. Check your charger's wire.Most of the wire s are always damage in the root of plug & to the opposite side.
2.Check the fuse.
3.Check the Rectifier Diodes.How many Diodes do your charger has?most of the chargers are only one,sometimes 4(a bridge type,& somtimes only one but 4 legs( it is also called a bridge type)
to test a 2 legs diode is just simply get a multi tester and adjust or set it in X1.,then look for the white band(mark) of diode,if you can see that mark,remember that it is the positive side.what will you do is put the red pin of the tester to the positve side of the diode,& the black pin of the tester to the negative side of the diode.If if the neddle of the diode will move,then you must reverse the pin of the tester,the red pin now will be put in the negative side of the diode and the black pin of the tester now will be put on the positive side( to the side with white mark or band).
now,if the neddle of the tester WILL MOVE after doing this reverse test: im sure that your diode is dead and needs to be replaced

Note:even most of the time you can do testing diodes attached on the board..,it is strongly recomended to detach one leg of the diode to the PCB or circuit befor doing the test.
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Yamaha SY77 Keyboard--getting no power at all. Opened it up and used multimeter to test switch, and all fuses that share the circuit board with the switch. Any flowchart for troubleshooting this? Thanks!

Try looking for the voltage rectifier or bridge diode that converts the A.C. supply into D.C. to power the circuits. Test it with your multimeter using the diode test function if you have one.Hope this helps.
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Samsung lcd monitor 153V has no display power indicator (green) is ok found 1 ic AE3U1T burnt. is this ic available or has the psu and backlight panel pcb to be changed.. [email protected]

Samsung 153V LCD Monitor Power Supply Repair Tips


Troubleshooting Samsung 153V LCD power supply is just like troubleshooting those CRT type. This monitor came in with no power symptom. If you are first time repairing this type of power supply, I recommend you to first remove the switch mode power transformer. Then test every single component in the primary section, before you continue to check the secondary section.


You have to be good in testing basic electronic components in order to detect the fault. You can always browse through my website just in case you do not know how to test basic electronic components. If you do not know the right way to check, you might miss out a bad component and this will lead you not able to solve the problem. After carefully checking all the components in the power supply section, I found the filter capacitor do not have any reading using digital capacitance meter (open) , the two round type fuse also open circuit, 1N4744 15 Volt zener diode short circuit and lastly the power IC TOP247F blown!.


Testing the SMPS (switch mode power supply) primary winding with a **** smith fly-back tester, shows green bar which indicates good winding. What we left here were the secondary diode and filter capacitor. Upon checking them with analog meter and ESR meter, found all of them to be good condition. Other area like main board and inverter board also looks okay (Power failure rarely affect these two circuit). Now we have confirmed that only five components found to be faulty.


One by one the components were replaced (except one fuse) and just before you switch on the power supply, make sure you connect a 100 watt light bulb across the live ac line. Once it is done you can then proceed to switch on the LCD monitor to look at the brightness of the bulb.

If it very bright, this suggests that there are still short circuit somewhere in the power section. If it dim or totally goes off, you can now place your red probe to the secondary side to check if any dc present at their respective line. If there are DC voltages present at the output, you can switch off the power, discharge the filter capacitor (for safety purposes), remove the light bulb and connect back the new fuse to its original location.


You are now hundred percent sure that the LCD power supply won

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Bissel Proheat 2x circuit board

Use this link: http://www.4cleanerfloors.co.uk/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=1278118_amp;brand=Bissell_amp;model=_amp;part=

I had the same problem. Ordered a PCB from Bissel it took 2 weeks to arive. I fitted it, then it blew again, turned out the brush motor was short circuiting. Ordered a new motor it took 10 weeks. I have now had to order the second circuit board.

Over 3 months to get this vac fixed - my advice is - don't buy Bissels!
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