Kitchen aide khws02rmt0 washer

Fix the flashing light by resetting the control panel

If you hear noises when the washing machine is in spin mode, it means that the tub bearing is worn out. When the drum spins, it rides on the bearing which allows it to move freely without any resistance. If the bearing is faulty, you will hear a loud noise when the drum rotates.

The only time that the oven door should be locked is during the internal "Self Cleaning Cycle," due to the high temperatures used. Make sure that the display does not indicate that the oven is not in it's self-cleaning cycle, and try wiggling the door slightly to see if you can dislodge the sticking lock pin.

If this does not help, then I suggest that you Call the KitchenAid Customer eXperience Center toll free: 1-800-422-1230

F11 = control board failure
The power surge during the outage damaged the control board and it will need to be replaced. Here is the board to order.

Hi

F11 is a motor control unit error which means that the motor control unit has repeating under or over voltage or over current conditions due to internal failure. You can check the wire harness connections between the motor and the MCU (motor control unit) and also between the central control unit & MCU. If the motor is working then replace the motor control unit. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208182140.pdf
will take you to the washer manual and
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208182400.pdf
is for the dryer.

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.%%^^

On ours, i think that those codes were overload codes.. i had to go downstairs and turn the circuit breaker right off for about 5mins - when i clicked it back on, the washer reset.. i took some of the extra wet towels out and ran another wash with no issues..

good luck
tpug

check the outlet, perhaps it's its hokked to a GFI outlet somewhere else in the kitchen and the GFI outlet has tripped

hi!!!!

try to unplug it end then check the control timer if it is broken !!!!

or open it if you know and fix it may be the spring that pull back the pause botton
might be broken go check it?