Kenmore Elite - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

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could be that the new part didn't click into place properly.

This is known as a Torx fastener.
They come in many sizes like allen screws.

There are even security fasteners with a pin in the centre.

Most mechanics centres and online tool suppliers stock them.
Snall sizes can also be supplied as hexagon bits for replacable-tip screwdrivers. Larger sizes available in 1/4" & 3/8" socket drive.

Look for the word Torx.

If this helps you locate them, please rate as Fixya!
Thanks.

Recall the error codes by activating the Automatic Diagnostic Test Mode to determine the cause of the problem. Select any one button, except Power, Start, and Stop, and follow this:
Press and hold the button for 3 seconds>Release the button for 3 seconds>Press and hold the button for 3 seconds>Release the button for 3 seconds>Press and hold the button for 3 seconds

All of the indicators on the console will light up for 5 seconds while 88 is displayed on the Estimated Time Remaining display. If not, repeat the step. Let us know if it cannot be activated.

The program then checks for any saved error codes after 5 seconds. List down the codes and post it back here. The console indicators will turn off then on with the 88 displayed if no error codes are recalled. After 5 seconds, the automatic test begins. The program performs a four-minute automatic test to check major washer functions. Press the same selected button in activating the automatic test above to advance through the automatic test steps.

1. C0: The motor goes to a slow spin.
2. C1: Warm water fills through the fresh dispenser and basket floats then disengage.
3. C2: Cold water fills through the bleach valve for 10 seconds.
4. C3: Hot water fills through the fabric softener valve for 10 seconds.
5. C4: Warm water fills through the detergent valve for 10 seconds.
6. C5: Agitates for 15 seconds.
7. C6: Recirculates for 10 seconds.
8. C7: Drains to engage basket and drain further for 10 seconds.
9. C8: Drains and spins slowly.
10. C9: Coasts to stop.
11. Press the Stop or Power button to cancel/exit the test.

Inform us about the result of the test for the repair guide if necessary.

its the error code for a long drain time most likely you need to check the filter in your pump for obstructions First if you have a wet vac pull the drain hose out of the drain spout and use the vac to pull the water out of the washer through the drain hose.If not you will need a pair of radiator hose clamps from the auto parts store. Pull the screws from the lower panel at the front of the washer and remove it.in side you will see a rubber hose coming down from the tub to the drain pump. Put the radiator hose clamp there if you didn't have a shop vac.On the front of the pump is a round part with a handle turn that and remove the pump filter .Clean any foreign objects out of the pump and look inside the pump to make sure no impeller blades are broken if any are you will have to replace the pump. put the filter back in and tighten it. If you had to use the hose clamp remove it now.reassemble and don't forget to give the tech his four boxes if this fixes it

F35 is a water level error.
The water level switch (pressure switch) has malfunctioned.

If you remove the top panel, three screws in the back, you will have access to the pressure switch.

With the tub empty, remove the vinyl hose from the switch and blow backwards through the hose to clear any restrictions.

If the fault codes return after doing this, you will likely need to replace the pressure switch.


Also - please be sure to use He soap.

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look for a screw on the top and take it out if the is not one should just lift out if not fixed in

WASHER WILL NOT START: Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary. Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch.. If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start. Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself. Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.

"F02" is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump


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Can anyone tell me how to turn on this .machine plese?

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it could get caught in the water pump or between the water pump and hose outlet, it could be caught between the agitator and the washing machine tub or it could be in the **** Trap in the wall, since it's heavier than water it would be the most likely place. and if not there then the over fill tub on the sides.

F 30 code can be reset by un plugging power cord for 5 minutes also pull out the detergent dispenser and reach all the way in to the back there is a small plastic flapper valve move it from side to side with your finger this will rest code f30 and save a tech visit..

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

IF THIS IS A BRAND NEW INSTALLATION - be sure you hav removed the basket shipping pins (4) that secure the tub during shipping.

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does it drain out all the water? after it stops or is there still water sitting in the tub?

Strangely enough, I found the problem to be in the motor. If the noise becomes pronounced during the high speed spin cycle, then that is the problem. I had a repairman out for mine and they wanted to replace the drum, however when I took off the back and removed the belt, I could turn the drum separate from the motor and could hear that the problem was in the motor bearing, not the drum. Hope this helps.

Take the front panel off your washer. Inside the washer attached to the side you should find a manual that will help you with the error codes.

As I have not received a response, I'm assuming these hints have taken care of your problem. If you have any more troubles, feel free to drop me a note back.